Sounds like you're looking at the right stuff. Report back please after you've checked the "freon". 
Air Conditioner Not Working
Need some help.......
When I turn on the AC it runs for a few seconds then stops. Dashboard temperature control, settings, and buttons all work. When I select different outlet settings I can her all the blend doors operating.
I can hear and see the compressor clutch engaging and compressor turning for those few seconds. Turning the AC off and back on does nothing. If I shut the truck off and restart I can try the AC again where it runs for a few seconds and stops. Blower fan not working either, even in manual fan only mode.
I looked into the similar situations, tried swapping the compressor relay, same result.
I haven't checked the Freon level as my gages are at work. Will try looking at that tomorrow night.
Any ideas???
When I turn on the AC it runs for a few seconds then stops. Dashboard temperature control, settings, and buttons all work. When I select different outlet settings I can her all the blend doors operating.
I can hear and see the compressor clutch engaging and compressor turning for those few seconds. Turning the AC off and back on does nothing. If I shut the truck off and restart I can try the AC again where it runs for a few seconds and stops. Blower fan not working either, even in manual fan only mode.
I looked into the similar situations, tried swapping the compressor relay, same result.
I haven't checked the Freon level as my gages are at work. Will try looking at that tomorrow night.
Any ideas???
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Yes, I know....the word "Freon" is wrong. Should have been refrigerant.
Force of habit from days gone by when all refrigerant was called "Freon".
Force of habit from days gone by when all refrigerant was called "Freon".
Would a failed sun sensor or ambient temp (outside or interior) sensor cause the AC to stop working?
It could, but you should check your charge level first.
I got my gages and checked the static (non-operating) pressure. Readings should be about 80-100 psi.
Gages read 90 psi. on both high and low sides with system balanced (pressure equalized with system not having run). So I have pressure.
Now I need to find a way to jump the compressor clutch and make it run so I can check operating pressures. I can't get to that till the weekend.
If anyone knows an easy way to put power to the clutch let me know.
Tune in again for next installment.
Gages read 90 psi. on both high and low sides with system balanced (pressure equalized with system not having run). So I have pressure.
Now I need to find a way to jump the compressor clutch and make it run so I can check operating pressures. I can't get to that till the weekend.
If anyone knows an easy way to put power to the clutch let me know.
Tune in again for next installment.
This is very sketchy memory, but it seems to me there is more than one relay / fuse (whatever) that can shut down your AC. Anyone else with more knowledge on this point??? It sure sounds like you've missed something.
WOT will turn off the compressor. I think there's a temperature gauge on the inside expansion unit to detect freezing as well.
Chip H.
Chip H.
OK......I had a chance to get my gages on it again and learned how to jump power to the compressor clutch. Found a good video on YouTube that showed how it's done. Now that I've done it once I'll make a proper jump wire at work for future use.
When I first started the compressor the low side went to zero and high side was low. I added more refrigerant and the numbers went up. Ended up adding two full cans, 24 oz. Low side would not go more than 20 and high side was 250. I didn't notice any frosting of the hoses or lines.
My best semi-educated guess is that the expansion valve gave out. Not enough gas is passing through the system. And that also means I probably overcharged the system.
Worst problem with that is that just about everything under the passengers side instrument panel has to come out to get to it. Fortunately I don't have to tear the entire dashboard assy out.
But I still don't understand why the blower motor isn't running. I haven't found the connection.
I still need to do some reading before I dive in and tear things apart.
Later
When I first started the compressor the low side went to zero and high side was low. I added more refrigerant and the numbers went up. Ended up adding two full cans, 24 oz. Low side would not go more than 20 and high side was 250. I didn't notice any frosting of the hoses or lines.
My best semi-educated guess is that the expansion valve gave out. Not enough gas is passing through the system. And that also means I probably overcharged the system.
Worst problem with that is that just about everything under the passengers side instrument panel has to come out to get to it. Fortunately I don't have to tear the entire dashboard assy out.
But I still don't understand why the blower motor isn't running. I haven't found the connection.
I still need to do some reading before I dive in and tear things apart.
Later
This just might be one of those cases that makes sense to get a professional to diagnose; Even if you plan to do the work yourself. They are much more situationally aware of specific symptoms/causes. It shouldn't cost you an arm & a leg to have them tell you what's wrong & give you a quote for repair. Then you can decide if you want to do it yourself (now that you know exactly what's wrong). You might even decide to pay them to fix it, depending on the quote they give you.
I posted somewhere on here last summer when the A/C was not cooling.
I took it to Honda service and they put dye & refrigerant in at that time but problem seem to be fixed. The refrigerant was low according to what they recaptured.
I took it to Honda service and they put dye & refrigerant in at that time but problem seem to be fixed. The refrigerant was low according to what they recaptured.
I realized last night that I lost track of my original problem which why it won't continue to run longer than a few seconds. I got absorbed into figuring why the pressures were odd. Once I get that straightened out we can see what else it's doing.
How do you eat an elephant?.....one bite at a time.
Seeing that I don't have a clear understanding as to how this system operates and the sensor integration I will need to have a professional look at it.
I used to work on the old R12 systems in the 1970's. Much simpler than todays.
I'll be back.
How do you eat an elephant?.....one bite at a time.
Seeing that I don't have a clear understanding as to how this system operates and the sensor integration I will need to have a professional look at it.
I used to work on the old R12 systems in the 1970's. Much simpler than todays.
I'll be back.
I don't know much about these systems either, but I do recall that (at least in the "old days") the system would not run continuously if your charge was too low (would kick on & off).
The new systems kick on and off as both a fuel-saving measure and to prevent icing-up.
Yeah, time to take it to a A/C repair shop - hopefully one that specializes in Hondas.
Chip H.
Yeah, time to take it to a A/C repair shop - hopefully one that specializes in Hondas.
Chip H.
I’m having the exact same problem, I opened the glove box and removed the cabin filter, the blower motor will turn a few revolutions, and just like yours and shuts off with everything else. The a/c clutch and compressor are fine,heater control valve is fine, I’m thinking it must be something simple that is interfering with the start up of the system.I realized last night that I lost track of my original problem which why it won't continue to run longer than a few seconds. I got absorbed into figuring why the pressures were odd. Once I get that straightened out we can see what else it's doing.
How do you eat an elephant?.....one bite at a time.
Seeing that I don't have a clear understanding as to how this system operates and the sensor integration I will need to have a professional look at it.
I used to work on the old R12 systems in the 1970's. Much simpler than todays.
I'll be back.
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
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