fuel injector seal? O2 sensor? I guess worst case could be an intake manifold crack? Does the Ridgeline use any vacuum lines under the dash (i.e. on the AC housing)?
Air intake leak not fixed p2279
Hello there! My 2006 Silver Ridgeline RTL with sunroof with 105k miles needs help. Here my story. Since I received it, I detected a steering wheel vibration while I was stopped waiting for the green light with the transmission on D, hesitation, not fluid acceleration, but never got an engine stall. After getting an OBDII reader, I got this codes: -P2279 Intake air leak. -P0301 to 0306. Misfires. During almost a year, I´ve been reading this helpful Forum, and waiting for weekends and holidays for doing my self investigation, tests and repairs. The truck has been this year with the CEL (Check Engine Light) always on. All codes has gone but the P2279 is still there. I have replaced: - Throttle body gasket. - EGR gasket. - Intake manifold gaskets (all). - PCV valve and hose. - Sparks plugs (from the dealer by maintenance schedule). - Valve adjustment, (services manual specs). - Timing belt kit (Honda). - MAP sensor. Working on the throttle body I broke the original. - Made a flash and update to the Engine and Transmission PCM with my local dealer (I dont know how verify which version was installed on both. - I´ve had made many times the idle learn procedure. - Fuel pressure is under service manual specs. - I can not locate any disconnected hose. All are secure connected. - I can not hear any air fluid noise. - I´ve made carbu clean test spraying the engine, and havent found any change or response on acceleration or stalled engine. - The Ridgeline doesnt have any coolant leak visually. - The last January 7, 2015, I replaced the fuel pump relay (remove MITSUBA and install a new DENSO). After two days (January 9, 2015) the CEL dissapears, but only for one day; on January 10, 2015, after fully loading the fuel tank, and start driving, the CEL turns on again. Is there any other part to check, any procedure? What I can not see or found to resolve this issue? I need help with this P2279. More brains and eyes can be more than helpful. Thanks in advance.
Arnoldo Vazquez.
Arnoldo Vazquez.
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
fuel injector seal? O2 sensor? I guess worst case could be an intake manifold crack? Does the Ridgeline use any vacuum lines under the dash (i.e. on the AC housing)?
Hello Elkhunter. Thanks for your suggestions. I not mentioned that I replace one O2 sensor, the ones nearest to the spark plugs, in front of the radiator.
Maybe take a look at the injector o-rings?
Let me investigate intake vacuum lines under the dash and an intake manifold inspection.
Arnoldo Vazquez.
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Hello Mr. Vazquez,Hello Elkhunter. Thanks for your suggestions. I not mentioned that I replace one O2 sensor, the ones nearest to the spark plugs, in front of the radiator.
Maybe take a look at the injector o-rings?
Let me investigate intake vacuum lines under the dash and an intake manifold inspection.
Arnoldo Vazquez.
Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
I know it's been 2 years now but I have the same problem recently. I would like to know what fixes your car issue.
Thanks.
Cirilo C.
I have a similar issue. Did you ever find a fix? I have a 2006 Honda Ridgeline with 300k miles. I’m having a code 2279 with a rough idle which will surge at times when in park. Previously i had the 2279 with misfire codes on all cylinders and rich codes for both banks. It was hesitating from a start as well. Did a valve adjustment and replaced intake and valve cover gaskets and misfire and rich codes are gone but 2279 is back along with 0420 bank 1 catalytic converter below threshold. I have checked everything Multiple times looking for a vacuum leak with propane, brake cleaner and water and can find no obvious vacuum leak. It runs great at highway speeds and has no stumble in acceleration. Another issue is with the power steering which has a whine. I’ve replaced the pump o-rings which helped some. I mention this because I have seen some things which indicate this could have some impact on the idle and I’m wondering if there’s a vacuum connection associated with the steering. Any thoughts or direction would be greatly appreciated. I’m wondering if the evap purge valve could cause this issue, and if there are any other related things I should be looking at. Many thanks in advance for any advice.
Might want to take it to a good reputable shop with a smoke tester. This was the only way a crack in the top of my gas tank was found after pulling my hair out for several weeks trying to find an emissions leak on my own. Might be money well spent rather than firing the parts cannon.
Good Luck
Good Luck
I had a recurring P0420 code on our 2006 Pilot for years. I either ignored it or reset it with my phone and Torque app. It would eventually come back after a few hours/days/weeks/months.
I finally had the shop look at it and had to replace the cat converter on one of the banks. Haven't seen that code again. I really thought it had to do with an O2 sensor, but the new cat converter fixed the P0420 code.
I don't know about the other code you have.
I finally had the shop look at it and had to replace the cat converter on one of the banks. Haven't seen that code again. I really thought it had to do with an O2 sensor, but the new cat converter fixed the P0420 code.
I don't know about the other code you have.
Adding to my previous post. did a valve adjustment which got rid of the misfires replaced all vacuum hoses which got rid of the rich codes and and improved the fuel trim which was around -12 now staying around -4 to -7 ltft both banks. Still have the 2279 and an idle surge from 800toaround 1300 when I take my foot off the accelerator or when revving the engine. IAT ECT MAP all test good pcv was replaced but may be aftermarket. Also cleaned the throttle body off the vehicle with throttle body cleaner. Plugs are new coils are good. Bled the coolant system properly as well. Have done idle learn clear eco and throttle position learn. What next? Throttle body apps? Scratching my head. Replacing all the vacuum hoses definitely helped with the fuel trim but the idle is killing me.
It’s funny cause when you depress the accelerator with the key in the on position but not running the throttle opens as closed when you let off the pedal then opens just barely. That seems to correspond to the surge when it’s running. Wondering if anyone has come across that. When looking at the throttle position both relative and absolute on the graph it’s smooth on the way up and down but then comes back up slightly before stabilizing.
So this is fixed. The problem turned out to be a few issues combined. The valve adjustment and replacement of all vacuum hoses along with cleaning and the REPROGRAMMING THE THROTTLE POSITION VALUE. The throttle position value had to be cleared and then reset with the idle learn procedure. The most annoying thing about this issue is that once I realized the throttle body needed to be reprogrammed I contacted three dealers all of which told me there was no such thing as pushing a button and resetting the throttle value. Even though the Honda fsm clearly states this has to be done after cleaning.
I was so annoyed that I went out and for $200(likely less than my bill at the dealer would have been) bought a Foxwell NT510 with Honda/Acura software. This thing is unbelievable for the price. Very easy to use. Took me 15 mins to figure out how to clear the throttle position and reprogram and it’s beem running like new ever since. 300k and you can barely tell it’s running when idling in park or stopped in t traffic. In addition to the throttle reprogram it can also read all the other modules, AT, SRS, ABS, you name it, you can also actively test nearly every component on the vehicle. Definitely best value out there in bi-directional scan tools. As far as the dealers what can I say...they suck! What a rip off. This whole issue started off two years with them telling me I had a blown head gasket. I couldn’t believe it so investigated for myself after they quoted me $3500 to fix. They had replaced the radiator to the tune of $1200.
The new one promptly failed. They replaced it under warranty and then proceeded to tell me a crazy story about how it was causing pressure in the engine and blew the head gasket. So disappointed with Honda service. Even did multiple combustion gas test along with other head gaket checks. They make such a great product only to put some slackers in their service depts. I’m sure there are plenty of good techs out there working at Honda unfortunately not at the dealers near me. That said I’ll never take an out of warranty vehicle to a dealer again. So...valve adjustment is a must, if you have high mileage replace all vacuum lines they cost nothing and I found most of mine to have very small cracks which can add up to a leak and clean and reprogram the throttle. My truck feels like it will go for another 200k.
It’s funny cause when you depress the accelerator with the key in the on position but not running the throttle opens as closed when you let off the pedal then opens just barely. That seems to correspond to the surge when it’s running. Wondering if anyone has come across that. When looking at the throttle position both relative and absolute on the graph it’s smooth on the way up and down but then comes back up slightly before stabilizing.
So this is fixed. The problem turned out to be a few issues combined. The valve adjustment and replacement of all vacuum hoses along with cleaning and the REPROGRAMMING THE THROTTLE POSITION VALUE. The throttle position value had to be cleared and then reset with the idle learn procedure. The most annoying thing about this issue is that once I realized the throttle body needed to be reprogrammed I contacted three dealers all of which told me there was no such thing as pushing a button and resetting the throttle value. Even though the Honda fsm clearly states this has to be done after cleaning.
I was so annoyed that I went out and for $200(likely less than my bill at the dealer would have been) bought a Foxwell NT510 with Honda/Acura software. This thing is unbelievable for the price. Very easy to use. Took me 15 mins to figure out how to clear the throttle position and reprogram and it’s beem running like new ever since. 300k and you can barely tell it’s running when idling in park or stopped in t traffic. In addition to the throttle reprogram it can also read all the other modules, AT, SRS, ABS, you name it, you can also actively test nearly every component on the vehicle. Definitely best value out there in bi-directional scan tools. As far as the dealers what can I say...they suck! What a rip off. This whole issue started off two years with them telling me I had a blown head gasket. I couldn’t believe it so investigated for myself after they quoted me $3500 to fix. They had replaced the radiator to the tune of $1200.
The new one promptly failed. They replaced it under warranty and then proceeded to tell me a crazy story about how it was causing pressure in the engine and blew the head gasket. So disappointed with Honda service. Even did multiple combustion gas test along with other head gaket checks. They make such a great product only to put some slackers in their service depts. I’m sure there are plenty of good techs out there working at Honda unfortunately not at the dealers near me. That said I’ll never take an out of warranty vehicle to a dealer again. So...valve adjustment is a must, if you have high mileage replace all vacuum lines they cost nothing and I found most of mine to have very small cracks which can add up to a leak and clean and reprogram the throttle. My truck feels like it will go for another 200k.
Glad fixed ..
Lets see that scan tool pics review link to buy
Lets see that scan tool pics review link to buy
Foxwell NT510 with Honda/Acura software
https://www.amazon.com/Foxwell-Mult...&qid=1530188423&sr=1-5&keywords=FOXWELL+NT510
https://www.amazon.com/Foxwell-Mult...&qid=1530188423&sr=1-5&keywords=FOXWELL+NT510
Didn't see the model years supported. I'm guessing it will support 2017 and up too ? Anyone know ?
Also, can we use it to turn on the ABS pump to purge the lines ? That would be a worthwhile unit if so.
Steve
Also, can we use it to turn on the ABS pump to purge the lines ? That would be a worthwhile unit if so.
Steve
Foxwell NT510 with Honda/Acura software
https://www.amazon.com/Foxwell-Mult...&qid=1530188423&sr=1-5&keywords=FOXWELL+NT510
I believe you can use it to bleed the abs. Not 100%. Was able to confirm the throttle reprogram definitely worked before purchasing. I’m not certain of the model years. For the money I was very impressed.
In the Q&A section on the Amazon listing someone asked about ABS bleeding. The answer was that it does have that feature. This was in reference to a Hyundai however so take it with a grain of salt. . .
Adding to my previous post. did a valve adjustment which got rid of the misfires replaced all vacuum hoses which got rid of the rich codes and and improved the fuel trim which was around -12 now staying around -4 to -7 ltft both banks. Still have the 2279 and an idle surge from 800toaround 1300 when I take my foot off the accelerator or when revving the engine. IAT ECT MAP all test good pcv was replaced but may be aftermarket. Also cleaned the throttle body off the vehicle with throttle body cleaner. Plugs are new coils are good. Bled the coolant system properly as well. Have done idle learn clear eco and throttle position learn. What next? Throttle body apps? Scratching my head. Replacing all the vacuum hoses definitely helped with the fuel trim but the idle is killing me.
It’s funny cause when you depress the accelerator with the key in the on position but not running the throttle opens as closed when you let off the pedal then opens just barely. That seems to correspond to the surge when it’s running. Wondering if anyone has come across that. When looking at the throttle position both relative and absolute on the graph it’s smooth on the way up and down but then comes back up slightly before stabilizing.
So this is fixed. The problem turned out to be a few issues combined. The valve adjustment and replacement of all vacuum hoses along with cleaning and the REPROGRAMMING THE THROTTLE POSITION VALUE. The throttle position value had to be cleared and then reset with the idle learn procedure. The most annoying thing about this issue is that once I realized the throttle body needed to be reprogrammed I contacted three dealers all of which told me there was no such thing as pushing a button and resetting the throttle value. Even though the Honda fsm clearly states this has to be done after cleaning.
I was so annoyed that I went out and for $200(likely less than my bill at the dealer would have been) bought a Foxwell NT510 with Honda/Acura software. This thing is unbelievable for the price. Very easy to use. Took me 15 mins to figure out how to clear the throttle position and reprogram and it’s beem running like new ever since. 300k and you can barely tell it’s running when idling in park or stopped in t traffic. In addition to the throttle reprogram it can also read all the other modules, AT, SRS, ABS, you name it, you can also actively test nearly every component on the vehicle. Definitely best value out there in bi-directional scan tools. As far as the dealers what can I say...they suck! What a rip off. This whole issue started off two years with them telling me I had a blown head gasket. I couldn’t believe it so investigated for myself after they quoted me $3500 to fix. They had replaced the radiator to the tune of $1200.
The new one promptly failed. They replaced it under warranty and then proceeded to tell me a crazy story about how it was causing pressure in the engine and blew the head gasket. So disappointed with Honda service. Even did multiple combustion gas test along with other head gaket checks. They make such a great product only to put some slackers in their service depts. I’m sure there are plenty of good techs out there working at Honda unfortunately not at the dealers near me. That said I’ll never take an out of warranty vehicle to a dealer again. So...valve adjustment is a must, if you have high mileage replace all vacuum lines they cost nothing and I found most of mine to have very small cracks which can add up to a leak and clean and reprogram the throttle. My truck feels like it will go for another 200k.
I have 2006 honda ridgeline RTL with 183000 miles and my truck started to do same thing as CSAPP8399. I did everything from changing sparkplug and coils to vacuum hoses. I saw this post and had my mechanic perform the following - REPROGRAMMING THE THROTTLE POSITION VALUE. The throttle position value had to be cleared and then reset with the idle learn procedure . This resolved hard starts - rough idling P2279 and numerous P030# coil misfire codes
Hey what's you're email and where are you located? I'm in NC and I'm experiencing the range issues. I can use your helpAdding to my previous post. did a valve adjustment which got rid of the misfires replaced all vacuum hoses which got rid of the rich codes and and improved the fuel trim which was around -12 now staying around -4 to -7 ltft both banks. Still have the 2279 and an idle surge from 800toaround 1300 when I take my foot off the accelerator or when revving the engine. IAT ECT MAP all test good pcv was replaced but may be aftermarket. Also cleaned the throttle body off the vehicle with throttle body cleaner. Plugs are new coils are good. Bled the coolant system properly as well. Have done idle learn clear eco and throttle position learn. What next? Throttle body apps? Scratching my head. Replacing all the vacuum hoses definitely helped with the fuel trim but the idle is killing me.
It’s funny cause when you depress the accelerator with the key in the on position but not running the throttle opens as closed when you let off the pedal then opens just barely. That seems to correspond to the surge when it’s running. Wondering if anyone has come across that. When looking at the throttle position both relative and absolute on the graph it’s smooth on the way up and down but then comes back up slightly before stabilizing.
So this is fixed. The problem turned out to be a few issues combined. The valve adjustment and replacement of all vacuum hoses along with cleaning and the REPROGRAMMING THE THROTTLE POSITION VALUE. The throttle position value had to be cleared and then reset with the idle learn procedure. The most annoying thing about this issue is that once I realized the throttle body needed to be reprogrammed I contacted three dealers all of which told me there was no such thing as pushing a button and resetting the throttle value. Even though the Honda fsm clearly states this has to be done after cleaning.
I was so annoyed that I went out and for $200(likely less than my bill at the dealer would have been) bought a Foxwell NT510 with Honda/Acura software. This thing is unbelievable for the price. Very easy to use. Took me 15 mins to figure out how to clear the throttle position and reprogram and it’s beem running like new ever since. 300k and you can barely tell it’s running when idling in park or stopped in t traffic. In addition to the throttle reprogram it can also read all the other modules, AT, SRS, ABS, you name it, you can also actively test nearly every component on the vehicle. Definitely best value out there in bi-directional scan tools. As far as the dealers what can I say...they suck! What a rip off. This whole issue started off two years with them telling me I had a blown head gasket. I couldn’t believe it so investigated for myself after they quoted me $3500 to fix. They had replaced the radiator to the tune of $1200.
The new one promptly failed. They replaced it under warranty and then proceeded to tell me a crazy story about how it was causing pressure in the engine and blew the head gasket. So disappointed with Honda service. Even did multiple combustion gas test along with other head gaket checks. They make such a great product only to put some slackers in their service depts. I’m sure there are plenty of good techs out there working at Honda unfortunately not at the dealers near me. That said I’ll never take an out of warranty vehicle to a dealer again. So...valve adjustment is a must, if you have high mileage replace all vacuum lines they cost nothing and I found most of mine to have very small cracks which can add up to a leak and clean and reprogram the throttle. My truck feels like it will go for another 200k.
I meant to say what's your email
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