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Honking as in once or as in a the blaring when the 'panic' button is pressed.
In my G1, once I press the lock button, it locks and makes no sound. If I press Lock again within 3-seconds, then it beeps once.
 

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Here's an example. I lock it to go in a restaurant to have lunch and come out and it is blaring. One I played 9 holes of golf and when I got back it was blaring and had done so long enough that the battery was run down.
 

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At first, I thought you might have a faulty hood, door, or trunk switch that was setting off the alarm, but if that was the case the alarm would automatically deactivate after sounding for two minutes. If your alarm is sounding for longer than two minutes then I suspect a faulty MICU (Multiplex Integrated Control Unit).
 

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What a nightmare; literally.
2017 Ridgeline 29k, alarm was going off at random. Twice in the middle of the night. Neighbors love me. Read on this forum about same issue. Had Honda replace starter button and module (1k) here in Los Angeles. (Warranty expired because the truck was purchased in 2016.)
As of today alarm went off again AND now dash Instrument lights flicker randomly after I turn truck off.
Going to try to film that issue to show dealership other wise they will have to hold the truck until they can see it for themselves. No thank you on the dreaded 鈥渨e were unable to recreate the issue鈥.
Loved this truck til now....have lost all confidence in it.
 

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Following up.
In case anyone else is having same issue here is a video of what happens.
I disconnected hood latch alarm contact tonight and that seems to have stopped the alarm from engaging. So no more random alarm/horn going off for now.
Dealership told me again today they have no idea what鈥檚 wrong. Have not seen this before.
 

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Appreciate the info zrog.
So far so good. Posted wrong image; will try to post video of flickering dash instrument lights. So far so good on that also.
 

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At first, I thought you might have a faulty hood, door, or trunk switch that was setting off the alarm, but if that was the case the alarm would automatically deactivate after sounding for two minutes. If your alarm is sounding for longer than two minutes then I suspect a faulty MICU (Multiplex Integrated Control Unit).

My husband took the 2017 Ridgeline to the airport. I have had this same issues as all others on this thread. Clickly lights/random alarms...I took to the dealership and they made some hood adjustment and it fixed the problem for a while (2 months) . It started up again a few days ago. Took it back to the dealership and they made some more adjustments. The next day my husband drove to the airport and left for a few days. He came back to find a dead battery, truck totally locked up and even the mechanical key will not work to open it. It's clear this is a defect in this particular year by all the posts here. Very frustrating and now have to go 1 hour back and forth to the airport to meet Honda Care to unlock and have it towed. I have only owned Acura's or Hondas.. very disheartening
 

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My husband took the 2017 Ridgeline to the airport. I have had this same issues as all others on this thread. Clickly lights/random alarms...I took to the dealership and they made some hood adjustment and it fixed the problem for a while (2 months) . It started up again a few days ago. Took it back to the dealership and they made some more adjustments. The next day my husband drove to the airport and left for a few days. He came back to find a dead battery, truck totally locked up and even the mechanical key will not work to open it. It's clear this is a defect in this particular year by all the posts here. Very frustrating and now have to go 1 hour back and forth to the airport to meet Honda Care to unlock and have it towed. I have only owned Acura's or Hondas.. very disheartening
2017 with 38K miles
 

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My husband took the 2017 Ridgeline to the airport. I have had this same issues as all others on this thread. Clickly lights/random alarms...I took to the dealership and they made some hood adjustment and it fixed the problem for a while (2 months) . It started up again a few days ago. Took it back to the dealership and they made some more adjustments. The next day my husband drove to the airport and left for a few days. He came back to find a dead battery, truck totally locked up and even the mechanical key will not work to open it. It's clear this is a defect in this particular year by all the posts here. Very frustrating and now have to go 1 hour back and forth to the airport to meet Honda Care to unlock and have it towed. I have only owned Acura's or Hondas.. very disheartening
2017 with 38K miles
Hi Jen
Zrog is right. My truck is at Honda now and is waiting for a new control unit. They have been working with Honda corporate on this (so they tell me) and a new control unit will fix the problem. Of course control units are a back order part. They have had my truck for over a week now and they tell me the part will be in on or around the 22 of this month. At least they have had the good grace to cover the cost of a rental car while I wait for the part.
Will cost me roughly another 1k to repair on top of the 1k I already spent in a new ignition button/module.
 

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Will cost me roughly another 1k to repair on top of the 1k I already spent in a new ignition button/module.
No reputable dealer should charge for a misdiagnosis. I would demand a credit for the first repair. If they refused, I'd dispute the charges with my credit card company. If that didn't work, I'd take them to small claims court.
 

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Here's an example. I lock it to go in a restaurant to have lunch and come out and it is blaring. One I played 9 holes of golf and when I got back it was blaring and had done so long enough that the battery was run down.
One person said that they replaced the MICU but that it did not solve the problem.
 

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Having the same issue on ~41k 2017 model as well. Mine goes off 4-5x/day, I took it to dealership and on the 2nd take-in, they pinpointed the problem to the keyless entry as well (they thought but had to get further confirmation during a weekday from Honda?). Anyhow, I took my truck home, don't want to take it back to the shop for a $600-$800 "fix" & just haven't locked my truck since...
Does anyone know the best path to just disable the alarm altogether? I'd rather take my chances than spend hundreds of dollars...
Unplug the wire going to the hood lock mechanism the doors will lock the alarm will not set
 

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My husband took the 2017 Ridgeline to the airport. I have had this same issues as all others on this thread. Clickly lights/random alarms...I took to the dealership and they made some hood adjustment and it fixed the problem for a while (2 months) . It started up again a few days ago. Took it back to the dealership and they made some more adjustments. The next day my husband drove to the airport and left for a few days. He came back to find a dead battery, truck totally locked up and even the mechanical key will not work to open it. It's clear this is a defect in this particular year by all the posts here. Very frustrating and now have to go 1 hour back and forth to the airport to meet Honda Care to unlock and have it towed. I have only owned Acura's or Hondas.. very disheartening
Hi Jen
Zrog is right. My truck is at Honda now and is waiting for a new control unit. They have been working with Honda corporate on this (so they tell me) and a new control unit will fix the problem. Of course control units are a back order part. They have had my truck for over a week now and they tell me the part will be in on or around the 22 of this month. At least they have had the good grace to cover the cost of a rental car while I wait for the part.
Will cost me roughly another 1k to repair on top of the 1k I already spent in a new ignition button/module.
So my truck is at the dealership.. they found electrical wires in the door that were in disrepair.. are replacing. They found this out because the metal key would not work to open the door when battery was dead.. had to get a locksmith to unlock the car at the airport.. not sure it explains the entire issue but could be a part of the issue ??

399714
1581957393936.jpeg 1581957445617.jpeg
 

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That's bizarre. The physical key turns a lock cylinder that is electrically and mechanically connected to the door lock, so the door should lock and lock by turning the key even with a dead battery.

The green wire is used to give an "unlock" signal to the power window master switch when the driver's door lock knob switch inside the vehicle is moved to the unlock position. If this wire sees a ground while the alarm is set, the alarm will sound.

Repairing this wire should stop your alarm from randomly sounding, but I can't help but wonder how this wire got damaged. Are you the original owner of the vehicle? That doesn't look like a factory defect to me - it looks like someone spliced into that wire for some reason.
 

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That's bizarre. The physical key turns a lock cylinder that is electrically and mechanically connected to the door lock, so the door should lock and lock by turning the key even with a dead battery.

The green wire is used to give an "unlock" signal to the power window master switch when the driver's door lock knob switch inside the vehicle is moved to the unlock position. If this wire sees a ground while the alarm is set, the alarm will sound.

Repairing this wire should stop your alarm from randomly sounding, but I can't help but wonder how this wire got damaged. Are you the original owner of the vehicle? That doesn't look like a factory defect to me - it looks like someone spliced into that wire for some reason.
I am not the original owner so I am not sure what may have happened before me .. got the truck at 25k miles .. the wire was clearly repaired poorly.. not a factory defect to your point
 

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I am not the original owner so I am not sure what may have happened before me .. got the truck at 25k miles .. the wire was clearly repaired poorly.. not a factory defect to your point
The metal key turned both ways without issue .. 3-4 people tried it so it wasn鈥檛 like it was rusted and not working but definitely did not open the door..
 

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No reputable dealer should charge for a misdiagnosis. I would demand a credit for the first repair. If they refused, I'd dispute the charges with my credit card company. If that didn't work, I'd take them to small claims court.
You鈥檙e right.
Unfortunately bought truck in 2016 so if course warranty had expired.
I鈥檓 going to keep all my paperwork because I think eventually there is going to be a recall on this.
THE GOOD NEWS IS...I have had my truck back for a week now and NO ISSUES.
My suggestion to all who are having this problem is to recommend to your service department at your dealer to start with the CMU.
Good luck everyone.
 
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