Honda Ridgeline Owners Club Forums banner

alignment question

5502 Views 13 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  hokiefyd
Hi All. I recently rebuilt my suspension and drive train on my 06 Ridgeline. I took it into an alignment shop that set up the front to zero deg toe, 2 deg. Caster and -.5 deg camber. The rear they didn't adjust becaust of a siezed bolt on the adjustment arm. The toe on the rear is left 15 deg. And -.05 deg right. The camber is about .5 per side.
I will go back for a rear alignment asap after I loosen the bolts... but in the mean time I'm currently experiencing pull to the right and vibration in the steering wheel above 90 km/hr which progressively gets worse with speed. Any thoughts if I need a wheel ballance also? Btw. I checked the brakes and no drag and the wheel psi is 38 front and 37 rear. I also rotated the tires but no change.
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
On my 06 those bolts are seized as well. I doubt very seriously that you will be able to get your bolts out and save the arm. I applied plenty of penetrating oil repeatedly and used my uber powerful impact driver to no avail, My alignment specs are just slightly off so I haven't dealt with the issue yet but the solution is mostly likely going to involve cutting the bolts out and replacing the arms on both sides. Truly a PIA and my guess is that most Ridges suffer from this seizing issue whether or not the owners have any idea!

As to your other issues. Plenty of possible causes for the vibration but its probably either a balancing or tire wear / out of round issue. How worn are your tires?
You likely had the wheels off to do the suspension work. Could be a bad install. Pull the wheels again and re-torque them. Did you by chance cross the wheels side to side?
My Michelin tires are starting to show some cracking on the side wall (sun damage) even though there is lots of tread. The ridgeline sits in the driveway alot due to the much better milage we get out of the diesel vw. I'll try to break free the bolts and reply back.
Yep. I rotated both rear forward then crossed over. I have had the wheels off several times to recheck and retorqued to 94 ft lbs. I had no pull or shake in the steering prior to the suspension change which makes me think its not the wheels...but in the past I have found when new tight components are installed is when other worn out problems show up.
My big question is will miss aligned (toe) rear wheels created pull and vibration?
In reference to the rear toe being out . .

Pull? Maybe.

Vibration? Doubtful, unless you have been driving is this condition for a LONG time, damaging your tires.

Every set of Michelins that I have owned have developed premature sidewall cracking. I won't buy any more till it becomes apparent they have fixed this issue.
This is the second set of michelin that have side wall cracking issues. I only rebought them because they warrantied and pro rated the price of new tires based on tread wear. I think I'll start with new tires and ballance then look at the possible rear end pulling.
I think I have miss diagnosed the brakes not draging. I must confess i didn't recognize what free tire rotation should look like in comparison to draging brakes. I can only spin the tire less than a full rotation, I thought the cv axels were the reason but now I think I was wrong. I can also hear the slight dragging sound of the brakes which should have tipped me off. I suspect all the brakes are due for an overhaul as the fluid is original and seals are likely gummy and sticking. I'm guessing the front or rear right side is dragging worse than the rest which is causing the pull to the right and likely the wheel vibration also.
  • Like
Reactions: 1
Brake Fluid should be changed every 3yrs, it's hygroscopic, (it attracts water) and that can cause corrosion within the brake system. If everything is original you'll have other issues but definitely start with the fluid. If your handy it's all stuff that can be handled at home with a few basic tools.
  • Like
Reactions: 1
I have overhauled and rebuilt calipers on different vehicles in the past, so I'll take these apart and replace. I took it to have a fluid change a fiew years ago but they wouldn't open the bleeders because they didn't want to brake them so they just sucked the fluid out of the resevoir. I should have done the brakes myself at that point but wasn't doing proactive maitenance then. I noticed my fuel milage was getting worse also, I suspect brake drag isn't helping much.
  • Like
Reactions: 1
A quick update...I cleaned and lubed all the pistons and sliders all arround. There were issues on all 4 corners of the truck, very overdue! The issue was mostly sliders that were frozen. I excercised the calipers, cleaned and lubed all the sliders and pistons. There were several frozen sliders and drag from rear emergency brake cable frozen. After overhauling the brakes the pull is almost completely gone and only a slight vibration at highway speeds. I suspect a wheel ballance is due which should clear up the rest off any issues.
Thanks for the advice.
  • Like
Reactions: 1
Sometimes balancing has been an issue for some members, ultimately resolved by "Road Force" balancing them, I believe others have had one place able to get them balanced and another not.

Basically keep in mind, for some it's a little bit more work, no idea why.
The toe on the rear is left 15 deg. And -.05 deg right.
Is this a typo? FIFTEEN degrees on the left? If that's toe-out, then you would most certainly perceive that as a pull to the right when driving. It'll be trying to steer your truck to the right as you drive (the front of the LR tire being toed-out) and you'll probably have to steer to the left to keep it on the road.

That much toe will ruin that tire. Get it fixed quick!
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.