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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok boy and girls…I’ve been lurking in the shadows for a while now. Finally got around to registering once I picked up my father-in-law’s 07 RTS when he just stumbled upon the car carrier delivering just one RTL-E on the morning her was taking his old truck in for service at his dealership.

So I have googled, searched the forums and I guess I’m just a bit confused and was hoping one of you fine outstanding Ridgeline Owners could simplify or tell me if I’m on the right track for my HU upgrade.

I’ve upgraded the overall speakers, I have Polk db651s in all 4 doors and a set of Candence in the dash. I’m looking at the final pieces now and this is what I am thinking:

Pioneer SPH-DA120 AppRadio 4 for the headunit

And either Alpine KTP-445U or Boss CE200M to drive the factory sub.

I have no interest in replacing it as I would want something to go in the same space it uses now, and I can’t seem to find anything. Does this set up make sense?

Thanks in advance!

BTW…thanks for the wealth of knowledge everyone shares. I found most of the little things I needed to do on the forum! Fixed the swing gate not opening, replacing my speakers taking the back seats out. This site is AWESOME!
 

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Ok boy and girls…I’ve been lurking in the shadows for a while now. Finally got around to registering once I picked up my father-in-law’s 07 RTS when he just stumbled upon the car carrier delivering just one RTL-E on the morning her was taking his old truck in for service at his dealership.

So I have googled, searched the forums and I guess I’m just a bit confused and was hoping one of you fine outstanding Ridgeline Owners could simplify or tell me if I’m on the right track for my HU upgrade.

I’ve upgraded the overall speakers, I have Polk db651s in all 4 doors and a set of Candence in the dash. I’m looking at the final pieces now and this is what I am thinking:

Pioneer SPH-DA120 AppRadio 4 for the headunit

And either Alpine KTP-445U or Boss CE200M to drive the factory sub.

I have no interest in replacing it as I would want something to go in the same space it uses now, and I can’t seem to find anything. Does this set up make sense?

Thanks in advance!

BTW…thanks for the wealth of knowledge everyone shares. I found most of the little things I needed to do on the forum! Fixed the swing gate not opening, replacing my speakers taking the back seats out. This site is AWESOME!
Sweet! The Pioneer app radio looks to have great features and software control. As long as it fits your needs, you are in for an enjoyable listening experience.

From what I've seen others do around here, both amps on your list do an admirable job of muscling the factory sub to the best it can do, which, IMO is much better than its given credit for.

Welcome to the ROC. Git er' done and post some photos.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Do you want to retain your steering wheel controls? The Axxess ASWC controller seems to be the most popular.
Forgot about that...I ordered that as well. So i pretty much everything with the exception of the amp for the sub. I just wanted to make sure either one works or if the general population preferred one over the other is all.
 

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As soon as the heat breaks I'm installing my Pioneer head unit, Axxess controller and Boss amp. Phase 2 will be replacing the speakers with JBLs. Phase 3 amping the speakers with a classic Precision Power 4100M from 1990. Phase 4 will be a sub amp and big subs. I already have this amp - * NEW * CAB-1600.1 Amplifier - Car Audio Bargain and will have at least a pair of 10s under the seat. I also have a pair of 15's for the times I want to raise the seats and really bring the bass. https://web.archive.org/web/20070623145031/http://www.tcsounds.com/tc3000.htm
 

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2007 Nimbus Grey Metallic RTL
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As soon as the heat breaks I'm installing my Pioneer head unit, Axxess controller and Boss amp. Phase 2 will be replacing the speakers with JBLs. Phase 3 amping the speakers with a classic Precision Power 4100M from 1990. Phase 4 will be a sub amp and big subs. I already have this amp - * NEW * CAB-1600.1 Amplifier - Car Audio Bargain and will have at least a pair of 10s under the seat. I also have a pair of 15's for the times I want to raise the seats and really bring the bass. https://web.archive.org/web/20070623145031/http://www.tcsounds.com/tc3000.htm
One thing you will want to be careful doing is using a vintage amp with a modern head unit. I attempted to do this by using the very first amp I ever had when I was 16 with my new Pioneer HU. The Pioneer has high volt (4V) pre outs and the amp couldn't handle it. It would go directly into protection mode the second it turned on. You may not have this issue with your PP, but just be prepared to purchase a new amp if it doesn't work.
 

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One thing you will want to be careful doing is using a vintage amp with a modern head unit. I attempted to do this by using the very first amp I ever had when I was 16 with my new Pioneer HU. The Pioneer has high volt (4V) pre outs and the amp couldn't handle it. It would go directly into protection mode the second it turned on. You may not have this issue with your PP, but just be prepared to purchase a new amp if it doesn't work.
I didn't think about that but I will be careful on the gains. As for frying a PPI amp, I did that last year to my 2150AM. It had been in storage since I ran my Honda CRX under a Toyota pickup in 1994. I bridged it to run a 15" sub and it lasted about 2 minutes before the magic smoke was released. I've read from guys who repair amps that some older PPI models have caps that will not last 20 years.
 

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I didn't think about that but I will be careful on the gains. As for frying a PPI amp, I did that last year to my 2150AM. It had been in storage since I ran my Honda CRX under a Toyota pickup in 1994. I bridged it to run a 15" sub and it lasted about 2 minutes before the magic smoke was released. I've read from guys who repair amps that some older PPI models have caps that will not last 20 years.
Lowering the gains wouldn't help in this instance. If the amp has built-in circuitry protection, it won't even allow the amp to turn on. Nevertheless, amps were heavy and well-constructed 20-25 years ago. I can't blame you for wanting to tap into that quality. Today's amps are much more efficient and affordable. If you end up having to get a new one, you won't be disappointed with a quality product.
 
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