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There are dozens and dozens of sensors tied together. A $200 scan gauge is not going to tell the whole story.
Its a extremely complex system that hundreds of engineers has designed. Second guessing them is going to be problematic at best.

Turn it off or leave it on. Your gamble either way. But I'll gamble with the engineers.
 

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I think the SVCM affects the temp gauge too, mine is at least 1/32" lower than it used to be.
The factory temp needle stops moving at 160F….disabler or not.
 

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There are dozens and dozens of sensors tied together. A $200 scan gauge is not going to tell the whole story.
Its a extremely complex system that hundreds of engineers has designed. Second guessing them is going to be problematic at best.

Turn it off or leave it on. Your gamble either way. But I'll gamble with the engineers.
Thanks to the engineers, the ScanGauge simply displays info it receives from the ECU via the OBD-II port….like when the system switches back and forth from “open loop”/“closed loop”.
 

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It's not that the temp gauge won't show overheating. It's the temp gauge is controlled by the computer and keeps it in an average range so that the consumer doesn't start freaking out when the temps climb normally during operation of the vehicle. Sure once it's overheating it'll show on the gauge as commanded to.
 

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It's not that the temp gauge won't show overheating. It's the temp gauge is controlled by the computer and keeps it in an average range so that the consumer doesn't start freaking out when the temps climb normally during operation of the vehicle. Sure once it's overheating it'll show on the gauge as commanded to.
OK, I am confused, so the vehicle temperature gauge and the ScanGauge are not indicating temps from the same source? If the engine coolant thermostat opens at 180-190 degrees, (as the ScanGauge shows), but the vehicles temperature gauge stops registering at 160 degrees, when does it start operating again, or does it just lag real temps by 20-30 degrees?
Bill
 

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Nope, Honda doesn't want people freaking out when their temp gauge starts going high. So they hold it off and just monitor it via computer. Years ago the temp gauge was directly tied to the sensor under the hood (think variable resistor temperature based) as the resistance went up the gauge in the car did too. Directly tied together and when the car overheated (like when I drove the Chevy Belair around town in 90+ temps) it overheated and the temp gauge got up into the red zone and the rad steamed off. That's how it went back then. Now everything goes through the computer and it monitors your car much better than me looking at that temp gauge wondering if I need to stop instead now we have the computer setting the conditions and telling us when to pull over. (like the AWD system overheating messages we see on Ridgelines)

Just a different method of ensuring we don't "wreck" our cars these days. Lesser blown head gaskets isn't really a negative in my opinion.
 

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The oil pressure gauge in my '93 Cougar was connected to a switch (not a variable resistor). If there was enough pressure to turn the switch on, the gauge would indicate normal; if not, the gauge would indicate low. :)
 

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Complex in just tricking one sensor to turn off VCM when there are dozens of sensors tied together
Nothing complex about sVCM. It passes actual temps (ECT1) until it gets to ~165F then continues to pass 165F as long as actual ECT is in a normal range. That way, VCM gets disabled, allowing the vehicle to run continuously as a V6.

If the actual coolant temperature is elevated (above 205F) then sVCM passes actual temps again. That way, warnings and logic which is dependent on ECT1 over-temp can trigger as expected.

Net effect is VCM gets disabled and the rest of the vehicle functions normally. On most vehicles that is; yours is the only one that reportedly runs rich to the tune of at least 4 mpg. So given there seems to be an issue with your particular vehicle, I think you're doing the right thing not using sVCM. Everyone else gets to choose if they want to disable VCM and run as a V6 continuously without issue.
 

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The oil pressure gauge in my '93 Cougar was connected to a switch (not a variable resistor). If there was enough pressure to turn the switch on, the gauge would indicate normal; if not, the gauge would indicate low. :)
My Pinto setup was a switch on the oil pressure and a idiot light on the dash. When it came on it was already too late. The engine was toast. On both my Mustang and Pinto that sensor went bad due to the extreme cold in the winter back in the late 70's. Ended up changing it due to the oil all over the engine. (that was the least of those junk cars problems)
 

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I use the VCMTuner II disabler…..I’m reasonably sure it‘s operation is very similar to the S-VCM disabler. Actual CT1 display returns to the ScanGauge as actual CT1 approaches 200F due to the disabler disabling itself. The only way I know of to get CT1 to approach 200F is to let the motor idle, A/C off and observing the ScanGauge. Obviously VCM is “off” when the motor is idling.
 

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Which VCM disabled are you using? I hate the engine braking downshift also.
Probably right, but shouldn’t I be able to get it fixed? They did Certify the vehicle a month ago.
I disable the disabler (ground the green wire) occasionally and the engine braking downshifting returns immediately when coasting to a stop. With only 16K miles, I don’t think I have a motor mount issue. Way too many variables to make reliable mpg/ fuel trim claims but it does seem logical that slightly more fuel would be used in 6 cyl mode vs 3 cyl mode.
I wasn't aware costing-to-a-stop trans down-shifting was related to VCM. Is it?!

I've owned my 2017 RTLE since new, and have been firmly in the non-disabled VCM camp. I can feel the VCM, but it's subtle, and I never thought I should bother to do anything. Well, now that I'm dealing with torque converter issues at 83k miles, my perspective has changed. I really enjoy this vehicle, but shame on Honda for delivering a turd that will never make my 300k mile target. I no longer plan to keep it long-term and will simply continue routine/preventative maintenance, add the S-VCM to make it as enjoyable as possible for another ~30k miles, then replace it. If the car market wasn't what it is, I'd just sell it today...
 
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