[rfcii]

And the tweeters are installed. Also went pretty smoothly. They do need to be hot-glued into place but otherwise fit pretty well.

The sound from these 3 upgrades is remarkably better. I had been more-or-less satisfied with the RTL-E sound, and decided not to pursue upgrades due to the complexity of replacing the head unit. Learning that these drop-in items were available did catch my interest, and I am glad I went for it.

I am not finding the tweeters too bright yet, but I did lower the center channel volume a bump or two. I hadn't paid much attention to it before, I thought it was mostly for the navigation voice, and didn't realize how much music was pumped into it, but it is very clear with this new speaker.

I don't think I will bother replacing the rear door speakers - the system sounds great as it is. It sounds especially better than the stock at high volumes (I am considering that maybe 25+) which I almost never use, but was fun to test. This was mostly listening for noise/distortion, of which there is very little. That said though, drums etc sound nice and punchy.

I'd acquiesce that of course the subwoofer could be improved, and probably more acoustic treatment in the doors would help, but I am not entering car audio contests. It sounds wonderful for my prosumer listening needs, and I do feel the ~$250 (before tax and after selling the extra center speaker) was worth it.

Thanks again for kicking off this thread and for the extra details y'all have discovered! I probably wouldn't have had the drive or patience to research and experiment on my own here.

 

[billg71]

Just put in the Hertz front door speakers, with no problems!

A couple notes for anyone else going down this path:

- Do make sure you let Crutchfield know that you are ordering these for a Ridgeline. You will need a mounting ring adaptor, and wiring harnesses, which they throw in free. I actually neglected this step, and they mailed them out 2nd day deliver at no charge. Great service indeed! You'll want a set of these: American International HSB524 Speaker Mounting Brackets

- You need to remove the factory speaker, and then use the bolt that was holding the speaker to install the ring. Before you do this, though, remove all the tabs on the inside of the ring. They will otherwise be in the way of the speaker seating properly. Once the tabs are all broken off (just wiggle them back and forth with pliers, they come off pretty cleanly), install the ring by putting the two tabs in the slots at the bottom of the speaker opening, and then bolting the ring into place. Now, connect the harness to your speaker (assuming you put Crutchfields harness on to the speaker, otherwise, connect wires as you see fit), loosely place the speaker, and rotate as needed to line the holes in the speaker up up with the slots in the adaptor ring. The slots give you a bit of wiggle room in exactly where you place the speaker. NOTE: You do have to install the ring in the door first! I wanted to prep the speaker in my shop before bringing it out, but the speaker will obscure the ring's mounting bolt. Thus, you need to install the ring first, and then install the speaker to the ring in place.

- Test the speaker and replace the door panel! I did not fully remove the door panel, fwiw. I removed the 3 screws holding it on, popped the connectors, and then just removed the two harnesses going to the door handle. This gave me enough slack to carefully set the panel just a bit aside and resting on a 5-gal bucket (experience learned doing the rear door checks, if you have a 2019 like me). The hardest part of this entire process is getting the door panel reseated properly at the window line - make sure the seal is straight the whole way. Out of 4 doors, I had this go perfectly the first time on 2 of them, and the other two were a minor PITA. It will probably go better for you since you are smarter and a better mechanic than I am.

They sound great! Looking forward to moving onto the tweeters, hopefully tomorrow.

Nice post, thank you. Finished mounting my Mille Legends today, they sound decent but not anywhere close to their potential. The tweets make a big improvement!

Best,
Bill

 

[F6Hawk]

This is the sort of thing that happens when you start talking to @securityguy. If you like your money, you might want to avoid his posts!!

J/K, he has been an amazing resource and help, willing to answer a PM or take a phone call. By the time I am done with the next three or four mods, I should be able to hear my sound system from a block away, and be able to start my truck from outside the country. Also, my catalytic converter will STAY on my truck, thanks to his help!!

 

[F6Hawk]

So I got 'er dun today. Five new speakers as well as the Drone and iDataStart module. Pretty easy mods overall, but if anyone does it, I recommend ignoring the instructions that come with the iDataStart system.

MS1 connector plugs into M4 port on module.
MS2 connector plugs into M5 port on module.
VS 1 & VS2 as well as VS3 & VS4 plug into the PCU above the glove box (T-harness style).
The Drone grey 4-pin connector plugs into the blue Telematics port on the module.

That's it. No other cables needed unless one wishes to use the Aux port 1 & 2 function of the Drone app.

Very happy with how easy it all was, and very appreciative of @securityguy for being willing to answer when I called. Very plug-and-play, and adds a level of security that I wish ALL vehicles came with. Now I can see where my truck is at all times, as well as monitor the status of the locks. Never again will I have to worry about whether or not I locked my doors before I got on a flight out of the country!!

 

[F6Hawk]

Oh yeah, I meant to add... those Hertz speakers that I found in another thread are UH-MAZING compared to the so-called WBE premium sound system. MUCH sharper and heartier sounds. I can easily turn the volume down 5-7 notches and hear sounds better than before!

 

[Mythos]

Hello my fellow Honda brethren, I don't own a Ridgeline, but I do have a 2019 Passport Touring model. I am also a moderator on the (official) Passport AND DIYMA websites owned/operated by the same parent company that runs this Ridgeline site.

The Passport Touring I own, had (perhaps the same or similar) 540w 9-channel "premium" stereo that is in the recent model Ridgelines. Originally I like liked it, but being a long-time car stereo guy (since the 70's) and being "way" into music and owning a couple of thousand CD's (I do have the Honda OEM CD Player) I did 2 or 3 upgrades before achieving my musical Nirvana...!

A few days ago I made a thread detailing my current set-up:

My Ultimate Stereo Build Thread

There are other threads detailing my stereo upgrade path and I will leave them be and create one thread that covers what I now have and will be keeping (no more upgrades...honestly!) Those of you who are talk radio fans will be thinking I'm crazy, and I fine with that, you can line up right...

www.passportforums.com

Or if you want to read about all the sordid details, I have an extended build log here:

2019 Honda Passport: MAJOR CHANGES (Dec-2021)

Met up with @MythosDreamLab for a demo. First time i have heard the Audison in person. The only words i can use to describe his sound stage is precise realism. I have sat in many three way systems and two way systems that are running active. From my experience, many times I find that the...

www.diymobileaudio.com

Anyway, I have a few comments and such: First I fully get that car stereos are very subjective and it you listen to talk radio or sports, doing any upgrades is pretty much throwing money away. But as anyone who has replace ANY of their OEM speakers will tell you, the speakers that come with these vehicles look like they were made for 50 cents, tiny magnets, cheap thin paper, lots of plastic, what is REALLY amazing is that the sound as good as the do, with such cheap construction!

To get great sound you MUST upgrade the Amplifier, any of you who have swapped out to new speakers, will see a moderate improvement, but as the OEM DSP/AMP is engineered for the OEM speakers, the crossover points in the DSP are NOT optimized for the replacement speakers you added! I went wiith and highly recommend the Audison AP F8.9 8-channel DSP Amp, it is a awesome piece of equipment!

So after a number of changes to all speakers (EXCEPT THE CENTER CHANNEL - which I leave turned down all the way) I am now running a 3-way speaker set in the FRONT only (no rear speakers), except for a new custom-mounted 8" subwoofer and the sound is amazing (anyone in So. Cal. that wants to meet up and hear it - drop me a line)..!

I'll throw a few pics up here , for those who don't want to follow the links above.

I think the Passport front view looks a lot like the Ridgeline (doesn't it?)

Close up of my Tweeters and Midranges:

And my Sub Woofer:

Anyway, I activated the NOTIFICATIONS, so anyone wanting to ask a question can leave one here OR I invite all of you to join the Passport and/or DIYMA Forums...!

Cheers!
Steve

 

[Ice]

Lots of thanks to securityguy. Changed out the center speaker with the Hertz DCX87.3 . Holy cow what a difference. The veil has been lifted. Even the bass seems to hit harder. Guys, if there's anything you're going to do to your Ridgeline, make this your first. Not only it's sooo easy to do, it costs less than a tank of gas! Without further ado, here are some tips:


1) Use a small tab and gently slide it under the small gap on the short side. The panel will pop right up. A credit card will work just fine.

2) Use a tiny screwdriver to depress the small tiny inside tab to remove the plug. Notice the 2 wire colors, Green and Tan. Tan is (+) and Green is (-). Make sure the Tan wire is connect to the connector on the speaker with the red dot (+ terminal) to ensure the speakers stay on phase with the rest of the system.

3) I choose to cut the terminal on the wire and splice it directly to the speaker.

4) All those gaps and holes around the speaker triggered the OCD in me. I filled up all the gaps and holes with a combination of 3M acoustic Thinsulate and Ultratouch (jean fiber). MUCH BETTER.

From beginning to the end shouldn't take you more than an hour. If I have a second truck to work on it'll take me less than 15 minutes. Well worth the upgrade. Tweeters and door speakers are next.

 

[Mythos]

DCX 87.3

 

[securityguy]

Lots of thanks to securityguy. Changed out the center speaker with the Hertz DT87.3. Holy cow what a difference. The veil has been lifted. Even the bass seems to hit harder. Guys, if there's anything you're going to do to your Ridgeline, make this your first. Not only it's sooo easy to do, it costs less than a tank of gas! Without further ado, here are some tips:


1) Use a small tab and gently slide it under the small gap on the short side. The panel will pop right up. A credit card will work just fine.
View attachment 423022



2) Use a tiny screwdriver to depress the small tiny inside tab to remove the plug. Notice the 2 wire colors, Green and Tan. Tan is (+) and Green is (-). Make sure the Tan wire is connect to the connector on the speaker with the red dot (+ terminal) to ensure the speakers stay on phase with the rest of the system.
View attachment 423023

3) I choose to cut the terminal on the wire and splice it directly to the speaker.
View attachment 423024

4) All those gaps and holes around the speaker triggered the OCD in me. I filled up all the gaps and holes with a combination of 3M acoustic Thinsulate and Ultratouch (jean fiber). MUCH BETTER.
View attachment 423025


From beginning to the end shouldn't take you more than an hour. If I have a second truck to work on it'll take me less than 15 minutes. Well worth the upgrade. Tweeters and door speakers are next.

Happy to hear that you love the results my friend. Very cheap and makes a far greater difference than most would believe! If all anyone does is this, then you'll be far happier with your OEM stereo.

 

[BruceL]

When I did the center speaker last week I was able to cut the connector out of the stock speaker and wire it up with the new speaker connectors. That way I did no cutting of the stock speaker wire.

 

[BruceL]

I also have a spare Hertz center speaker if anyone is looking for one.

 

[riprob1]

I also have a spare Hertz center speaker if anyone is looking for one.

Check your PMs..... I'm your guy.

 

[apex72]

OK...my Crutchfield delivery came today...WOOHOO! I first installed the center channel with the Hertz 3.5. The difference, just in replacing the center channel, was AMAZING! I was super impressed and, worst case, everyone should just do that at a minimum. I then took off each "A" pillar and installed the Hertz tweeters. They fit beautifully and just need to be hot glued into place using the Honda OEM tweeter mount. Much brighter and crisper highs and I am very pleased with the outcome. Now...the front doors...a crazy thing happened that Crutchfield tech support and myself figured out after playing around for about an hour and a half. This is what happened:

1. Removed both door panels...super easy
2. Disconnected each OEM speaker
3. Installed the Crutchfield supplied mounting ring on the door
4. Used the Crutchfield supplied wiring harness adapter to attach the Infinity Reference speakers and fired her up
5. I lost all audio in my front doors Rear doors were fine...center channel and tweeters fine...front door speakers DEAD!
6. Checked the impedance on the Infinity speakers they appeared fine (not blown is what I am alluding to)
7. Removed the Infinity's and reinstalled the OEM in the front doors and wallah...the doors came back to life
8. Put the Infinity's on my bench and tested the impedance with Crutchfield tech support on the line
9. Each speaker tested at 2.2 ohms at the terminals and 2.5 ohms at the harness

So...what was the conclusion? Apparently, the Honda digital amplifier in the RTL-E and BE must see 4 ohms or anything greater than 3.5 assuming tolerances. Since the Infinity's were at 2.5 at the harness, the digital amp saw less than 4+/- ohms...assumed there was a short and protected itself by shutting down the door channels...who would have known???

I have the OEM's installed and for now awaiting a set of true 4 ohm speakers. Crutchfield told me that Infinity speakers are generally around 3 ohms at the harness and, for most all vehicles, it isn't an issue. In the RL it is a BIG issue.

FWIW, I used Infinity Reference for the center channel and components for the front doors and had no problems. Worked right out of the gate and made a big improvement. (I did have to make a baffle to go between the new center channel and the dash grille because the mounting holes didn’t match up and to keep the woofer surround from touching the grille).

 

[securityguy]

FWIW, I used Infinity Reference for the center channel and components for the front doors and had no problems. Worked right out of the gate and made a big improvement. (I did have to make a baffle to go between the new center channel and the dash grille because the mounting holes didn’t match up and to keep the woofer surround from touching the grille).

Did your front door component speakers have their own X-over?

 

[apex72]

The Infinity components did come with a crossover, but you don’t need to use it for the front because the factory amp is handling the crossover duties. See this thread where I documented how I tested this since there are some misconceptions on this site about the tweeters receiving a full-range signal.

I did order a second set of components which I’m planning to install in the rear doors and will use the supplied crossovers.

Glad I read your post, I will make sure to test everything before I make modifications to install the tweeters in the rear door panel.

 

[Spidey]

Based on the favourable feedback from forum members on the Hertz DT 24.3 I ordered a pair. Installation was straightforward (I used automotive RTV silicone to secure them) but I found them way too bright, even with the treble set to zero.

I called Crutchfield last week and after telling their rep Gil about my issue, he said I should use something with a silk-dome tweeter and suggested the Kicker 46KST2004: Kicker 46KST2004 KS Series 3/4" dome tweeters at Crutchfield

They arrived in a couple of days and were even easier to install than the Hertz. I used the flush mount trim rings and the short mounting nuts to secure them in place. It is necessary to install the short mounting nuts upside down as mounting them as one would expect doesn't fill the gap around the tweeter hole in the a-pillar trim.

I am quite happy with how they sound.

 

[securityguy]

Based on the favourable feedback from forum members on the Hertz DT 24.3 I ordered a pair. Installation was straightforward (I used automotive RTV silicone to secure them) but I found them way too bright, even with the treble set to zero.

I called Crutchfield last week and after telling their rep Gil about my issue, he said I should use something with a silk-dome tweeter and suggested the Kicker 46KST2004: Kicker 46KST2004 KS Series 3/4" dome tweeters at Crutchfield

They arrived in a couple of days and were even easier to install than the Hertz. I used the flush mount trim rings and the short mounting nuts to secure them in place. It is necessary to install the short mounting nuts upside down as mounting them as one would expect doesn't fill the gap around the tweeter hole in the a-pillar trim.

I am quite happy with how they sound.
View attachment 423337

Happy you found something that works for you.

 

[001TFS]

OK, I went for it as well !!
Hertz DT 24.3
Dieci Series 1" tweeters
Hertz DCX 87.3
Dieci Series 3-1/2" 2-way car speakers [have the usual one leftover in case of interest to someone]
Hertz DCX 165.3
Dieci Series 6-1/2" 2-way car speakers
All from Crutchfield and installed today in my 2021 RL Touring. Was easy and they sound great - huge improvement!
Thanks to everyone and esp. securityguy for the suggestions and all the advice.

Tom
Ontario Canada

 

[riprob1]

Well.... It ain't pretty (and I had to sacrifice the stock speaker) but, I installed the Hertz 87.3 with a cannibalized wiring harness. The only real plus is not having to strip and crimp the dash wiring, and I got to use my soldering iron.

The hardest part was convincing myself to destroy the stock speaker, the Dremel tool made quick work of the rest. A nice wrap in electrical tape made it look less janky.

 

[BruceL]

That's exactly what I did.
On a side note I liked the sound after swapping the center but when I did the tweeters ouch, like ice picks in my ears. Have to turn the treble down almost full in order to cut those highs.