Honda Ridgeline Owners Club Forums banner

21 - 26 of 26 Posts

·
Registered
2019 RTL-E (white on beige) in central Texas
Joined
·
1,583 Posts
@CentexG2 can you please share the reference materials that you are using to identify the wires B19 and B4?
Attached is an extract of a PDF I compiled from Honda Service Express data for my '19 RTL-E. All cut-and-paste verbatim from HSE pages, just formatted to Excel for my use, then to PDF for response here. This is the sheet for Connector B at the Amp/DSP Module.

Anyone can get all of this and everything else they might likely need insofar as pin assignment and audio system data for only $25 (edit- price corrected) on HSE.

Not labeled other than Connector-Pin numbers, but you can see the whole system including this circuit here, compiled from the same source:

 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
87 Posts
Hi everyone, thanks to all the inputs/recommendations in this post and other parts of the forum. I'm shopping for a Kicker 46CXA400.1 amp and Kicker CompRT 8" sub. I'm very new to this, I had always gotten pros to install my audio but this time I'm going to tackle it myself. Can someone verify my thought process and tell me if its right or wrong..

-Install the sub and amp behind my rear seat.
-Connect the factory sub wires to the amp via Hi/speaker level
-Run the amp power to the battery through the driver side firewall.
-Run the base knob/controller to the front driver seat and decide where to mount it later.
-Not doing remote turn-on wire to the fuse box because the amp should turn on from the hi level input.
-Turn on the car and tune the amp.

After all my research that's what I came up with, am I missing anything?
Is there a good/safe place to ground the amp behind the seat?
Also can someone explain to me why I should get the 1ohm or 2ohm sub.
Is there a better amp and sub combo at this price point (~$300)?

Thanks in advance.
Stay safe.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
93 Posts
So, is there a workaround using the AudioControl D-6.1200? Maybe ... an as-yet untested scheme ....

Looking at OE RTL-E audio schematics and connector diagrams, we note OE Amp module inputs on CONNECTOR B:
PIN B4AUX NAVI GNDGround for audio signal of voice guidance and Voice Recognition (VR) prompts

PIN B19AUX NAVIInputs front audio signal of voice guidance and Voice Recognition (VR) prompts

These appear to be the pre-amp (line level) source for the NAV voice alone that is mixed with music for the OE Center speaker output. IF that is the case, perhaps this would work ....

View attachment 400108

The notion being that we TAP** the NAV Voice signal alone before it is mixed with music in the OE Amp/DSP and sum that Voice Only signal to our L&R Hi and Lo AudioControl outputs, avoiding any use of the corrupting OE Center L+R music signal whatsoever.

Only testing would answer the questions and prove if this will work ....
  • Is B19+B4 in fact a line-level voice only analog signal?
  • Does AudioControl D-6.1200 support summing that single line-level input to 4 discrete output channels and effecting good voice + music relative volume levels?
It's a theory that someday I'll get around to testing, but that's not on the near horizon for me. In my case I'd be using a DSP other than the AudioControl unit.

**TAP rather than CUT in case the signal on this line plays a role in invoking MUTE when NAV voices occur

All in this and the preceding post just for your consideration, feedback / critique most welcome, have fun with your project, and keep us posted!

Wanted to give an update here. I replaced OE front woofers and tweeters with JL Audio C2-650 6-1/2" Component Car Speakers. I tapped into the factory amp at the front speaker harness, which seems to have been a mistake because apparently the front speakers may not have full spectrum. Certainly, the sound is lacking in certain registers while shrill in others. Oh well, not like I have anywhere to drive to these days, so my RL can stay in pieces for a bit longer :)

I determined that the center speaker, if turned all the way down in the HU volume control, will still play nav/alert tones. So here's what I am planning:

401990


The center will remain untouched, and probably turned down to zero. The Kicker has an "auto EQ" functionality which I think might be good enough, at least it's worth a shot.

Thoughts?
 

·
Registered
2019 RTL-E (white on beige) in central Texas
Joined
·
1,583 Posts
Thoughts?
Well, if you're correct about the front tweeter/woofer outputs being spectrum limited by the OE amp, you've probably mapped the best you can do without the aide of a DSP to mix those to full spectrum and EQ-correct before sending to an amp.

Lacking that, you're forfeiting F/R independent level control (fader), only you can decide if that's what you want to live with.

Continuing to follow ...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
93 Posts
Well, if you're correct about the front tweeter/woofer outputs being spectrum limited by the OE amp, you've probably mapped the best you can do without the aide of a DSP to mix those to full spectrum and EQ-correct before sending to an amp.

Lacking that, you're forfeiting F/R independent level control (fader), only you can decide if that's what you want to live with.

Continuing to follow ...
Fortunately the KEY has volume knobs for both output channel pairs, so I should be able to dial in an appropriate F/R mix that I would then have to live with not adjusting dynamically (which is fine).

Others have posted that the F woofer outputs are spectrum limited, and even if they are not, they are quite heavily EQ'ed. So it seems the only way to get around the factory EQ curve is by using a DSP. I had considered a more nuanced setup with different DSP gear earlier in this thread, and may end up having to go that way if the KEY device does not yield good results.
 
21 - 26 of 26 Posts
Top