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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought 2018 RTL-E new without extended warranty. It now has 56,000 miles and backup camera has gone out. From this thread I’d say it is the harness as I utilize the tailgate extensively to access rear trunk. Doubtful that my dealer will support me, I’d rather spend the approx $600 for a different design that is wireless. Is anyone aware of anything - perhaps even utilizing Apple CarPlay or some other app to interface with the in dash display? Also, not knowing anything about Honda dealer administration, should I consider going to a different dealer than I purchased it from? (They may be owned by same company but the second dealer seems less arrogant on the sales floor. Have never had any dealings with shop.). I’m a previous Jeep owner and had much better reliability and dealer support than I’ve experienced with Honda so this is pretty disappointing.
 

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Take it to a local non dealership garage that knows how to splice wires. A few connectors and maybe a hundo bucks and you'll be on your way. The dealer is a non starter. And by the time our government decides the backup camera is a safety issue you'll have bought another vehicle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Zroger - tried the dealer. $632.30 estimate and no goodwill to be found. Wife has orders to shoot me if I ever go back to them for anything. Has anyone replaced the harness themselves and what panels must be removed for access? How bad is the job?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Dealer A quoted over $100 for parts. Dealer B quoted parts at $63.87 plus tax. Service Dept B quoted 3 hrs/$640 labor. The 2 dealerships may have common ownership. I’ve ordered the part and will install it myself or have mechanic or body guy do it if I can’t figure it out. If you have any drawings about best access, it will be appreciated. Thanks for all you‘re input on the forum.
 

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2019 RTL awd, MSM
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Go read this thread:

Pay particular attention to post #69.


Get some heat shrink butt connectors. They will allow you to make a decent connection in a confined space.

 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for the info. It appears the splices don’t last either so I’m still planning to replace with a factory harness. Update: the $60 price was for wrong harness. Being charged $106.05 for 32109-T6Z-A00 that’s supposed to be at dealer Tuesday.
 

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Thanks for the info. It appears the splices don’t last either so I’m still planning to replace with a factory harness. Update: the $60 price was for wrong harness. Being charged $106.05 for 32109-T6Z-A00 that’s supposed to be at dealer Tuesday.
Even with the new harness, I suggest you pay attention to post #69, or your new harness won't last, either.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So are you saying the double back portion should not be in the open area (like mine was)? I felt like he (#69) was asking the question rather than making a statement, even wondered if he might have moved it when installing light bar. If so, that could explain why his wasn’t broken yet. Post #68 seems to not have the “double back” in the open area and his failed too. Not challenging what you’re saying - just trying to understand what you’re saying and why. Thanks.
 

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2019 RTL awd, MSM
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So are you saying the double back portion should not be in the open area (like mine was)? I felt like he (#69) was asking the question rather than making a statement, even wondered if he might have moved it when installing light bar. If so, that could explain why his wasn’t broken yet. Post #68 seems to not have the “double back” in the open area and his failed too. Not challenging what you’re saying - just trying to understand what you’re saying and why. Thanks.
@MtMan's post points out that people who have the doubled-back setup seem to be having wear issues, whereas his is not doubled back and he doesn't seem to be having those issues.

IIRC, reading subsequent posts on that thread, many people have adopted his wire routing in an effort to ease tension on the factory harness.
 

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@MtMan's post points out that people who have the doubled-back setup seem to be having wear issues, whereas his is not doubled back and he doesn't seem to be having those issues.

IIRC, reading subsequent posts on that thread, many people have adopted his wire routing in an effort to ease tension on the factory harness.
Just an update. Still no changes in the cable, looks the same as when posted on the Dec 2019 post #69. With the loop resting under the tail light housing, it will take the stress off the cable.


Todays picture:
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Automotive design Bumper
 

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My 2017 camera just failed for the broken wire. Have appointment at dealer next week for them to diagnose the problem. Have Hondacare so i would think this will be covered.
 

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Recall just issued.

 

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I just had this problem on my ‘18 RTL-T. Thanks to this thread I found a broken wire at the edge of the tailgate. I was able to repair it with a heat shrunk butt splice after an hour of snipping and coaxing the harness bundle up from the zip ties. A bit of a PITA to re-zip it in place with the loop underneath the housing but the repair is holding for now. I heavily taped the bundle to hopefully minimize the wear and tear but expect I’ll need to have the harness replaced at some point.
Once again this forum saved me a bunch of headache and money. Keep it up y’all!
 
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