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Discussion Starter #1
Had my 07 at the dealer yesterday to have them find a clunking noise in the front end, they put the truck up on the lift checked out the front undercarriage and informed me that the right tie rod is starting to wear but the ball joint is in need of replacement, According to the service manager the you need to purchase the lower control arm as the ball joint is pressed into it, they quoted me just under $700.00 to replace the tie rod, ball joint and align the front end.First of I would like to know if anyone replaced a ball joint,and how much, Second I'm thinking of buying a new vehicle (not sure what yet)doubt if it will be a new RL as this one is coming up on 10 years and it will need the timing belt changed, new tires,etc, plus I'm sure the drivers side ball joint and tie rod will probably go soon or should I bite the bullet spend the money for repairs and keep the truck? Advice?
 

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If it was my decision to make, I would most likely put the money into my truck since it is paid for and still in good shape (only 33,000 miles).
 

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Even if you overpay for a timing belt job and tires, you will still be money ahead paying for all the repairs, versus purchasing a new vehicle.

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How many miles on the ridge? I heavily offroaded my ridge and didn't replace the factory control arms (balljoint) until about 160k... And it wasnt even the ball joint that was bad it was the bushings.
 

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Within the last 6 months I spent around 2500 cause of issues with the new RL and not many around. I still like mine so new tires, timin belt along with many other things related, new tie rods both sides and alignment. I know I wont recoup the total cost but in the mean time I have a piece of mind and wont be afraid to drive it another 5 years. And might sell faster for a bit more then one that has had nothing done. Still waiting for Honda to build that other truck.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
How many miles on the ridge? I heavily offroaded my ridge and didn't replace the factory control arms (balljoint) until about 160k... And it wasnt even the ball joint that was bad it was the bushings.
86,700 mi. S.T.U.V., took it off road a little when I first got it, nothing heavy at all I haven't had it off road in about 7 years strictly city streets and highways. Kind of surprised that it's bad too.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Within the last 6 months I spent around 2500 cause of issues with the new RL and not many around. I still like mine so new tires, timin belt along with many other things related, new tie rods both sides and alignment. I know I wont recoup the total cost but in the mean time I have a piece of mind and wont be afraid to drive it another 5 years. And might sell faster for a bit more then one that has had nothing done. Still waiting for Honda to build that other truck.
After looking at various trucks, and how much they want for new one's I think I'm also going to have the tie rods done , ball joint replaced and the timing belt done and keep it a few more years like you. I do love this truck and there really is nothing like it. Also been looking for a decent 2014 with low mileage but they are hard to find.
 

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2008 Ridgeline RTS in Billet Silver Metallic
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After looking at various trucks, and how much they want for new one's I think I'm also going to have the tie rods done , ball joint replaced and the timing belt done and keep it a few more years like you. I do love this truck and there really is nothing like it. Also been looking for a decent 2014 with low mileage but they are hard to find.
When you do the timing belt/water pump service, remember the serpentine belt and tensioner pulleys too.
Also the hydraulic tensioner (which should be part of the timing belt kit).
Spark plugs.
PCV valve
valve adjustment
radiator and coolant

It won't be cheap, but it will be cheaper than buying another vehicle.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
When you do the timing belt/water pump service, remember the serpentine belt and tensioner pulleys too.
Also the hydraulic tensioner (which should be part of the timing belt kit).
Spark plugs.
PCV valve
valve adjustment
radiator and coolant

It won't be cheap, but it will be cheaper than buying another vehicle.
Most of the other things that you mention I will do myself and save tons of money over the dealer however I don't have a lift or an alignment machine to do the ball joints and tie rods and the timing belt I'll also let the dealer do, if they mess it up it's there dime.
 

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I would get another opinion on this one or at least have them demonstrate the issue with the vehicle up on a lift. If the clunk is still there when they are done, then what?

Plenty of people reporting front end clunks on this forum yet few if none have had the ball joint as the issue. Clunk sources that I have seen: Sway bar bushings, sway bar end links, upper strut bearing, compliance bushings, engine mounts . . . The compliance bushing on the control arm does tend to wear out but the ball joint seems very reliable.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I would get another opinion on this one or at least have them demonstrate the issue with the vehicle up on a lift. If the clunk is still there when they are done, then what?

Plenty of people reporting front end clunks on this forum yet few if none have had the ball joint as the issue. Clunk sources that I have seen: Sway bar bushings, sway bar end links, upper strut bearing, compliance bushings, engine mounts . . . The compliance bushing on the control arm does tend to wear out but the ball joint seems very reliable.
Thanks, A friend of mine is also going to check out the front end to see what is wrong. As I said before I do find it odd that the Ball joint is bad with only 86k miles on the truck and it not being driven off road in a long time.
 

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I would get another opinion on this one or at least have them demonstrate the issue with the vehicle up on a lift. If the clunk is still there when they are done, then what?

Plenty of people reporting front end clunks on this forum yet few if none have had the ball joint as the issue. Clunk sources that I have seen: Sway bar bushings, sway bar end links, upper strut bearing, compliance bushings, engine mounts . . . The compliance bushing on the control arm does tend to wear out but the ball joint seems very reliable.
My clunk was the one inner Tie Rod. Easy to find just crawl under and grab them and see if theirs play. But I replaced all cause I have 108,000 miles on it. If you just replace one out of the four your talking lots of money in alignment jobs.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well, took the truck to my friend who is a master mechanic with a nice garage and lift raised the truck up and started checking everything, found all the ball joints to be good and tight no play whatsoever, very little play in the right tie rod end but very little wouldn't worry about it for the time being, just replaced all the sway bar links, checked the sway bar bushings they don't seem worn. Found a small rattle if you will on the front exhaust. We also noticed that the right front strut is leaking slightly and doesn't seem to have a lot of resistance when collapsed , so we think that might be where the banging is coming from. I just ordered two complete assemblies including coil springs for $110.00 each, I'll put them on and see if that rectifies the problem.$220.00 sure beats over $700 that the dealer wanted to replace the ball joints that don't need replacing.
 

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Dace dad, man that's great news. Good friends like that, who needs stealerships. ;)
 

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After reading your issue, I was going to suggest a second opinion. 155k on my 07 with very similar driving habits and the suspension is still tight as a snare drum. Glad you seemed to have found your problem.
 
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