[mfs841]

Hey guys,

Noticed a small coolant leak a few months back. Had a pressure test/visual inspection done finally this weekend (dont' ask what took me so long.) and it was determined by the mechanic the water pump is leaking and needs replaced.

I know it makes sense to replace the timing belt, tensioners etc while in there since its included in the cost of labor but I'm 90% sure the previous owner did that about 50k miles ago; and given the fact I'm just trying to get the truck ready to sell, I don't feel obligated to replace those parts.

Anyway, mechanic quoted me about $700-800 (water pump + labor) which seemed a little steep. I'm getting a second opinion from another shop this week but wanted to see what you guys think about those numbers. Is that a fair price for a water pump replacement?

Thanks

 

[speedlever]

So much depends on your location. (edit: duh! I see you're in CLT) In my area, I would think 500-600 would be more in-line. But I would also go for the full TB/tensioner/water pump replacement too. That would be a selling point and would also incur minimal cost. Most of what you're paying for is labor anyway.

Just curious, but did you replace the WP when the TB was done 50k miles ago?

 

[mfs841]

That sounds more reasonable and kind of what I expected to pay. You're right in the fact that it would probably be easier to sell if I have everything replaced at the same time so I may get on ebay or amazon and just buy the full kit.

I see an aftermarket Gates sticker on the timing cover so I assume the belt was changed around 105K as per the MM by the previous owner. Usually unless you specifically request to have the pump changed out when you have the belt done, most places won't replace it - especially the dealer from what I'm told. Because of this I'm wiling to bet this is the original water pump - which explains why it's leaking.

 

[Flyboy]

I agree. I'm a big believer in replacing things "while I'm in there" when doing repairs. Full timing belt kits are inexpensive.

 

[mfs841]

Called another shop that I've used before in the past and was quoted $832 for parts and labor which includes new water pump, TB, drive belt, idler pulley, tensioner pulley, and hydrolic tensioner. Also includes the Honda blue Type 2 coolant. I'll probably just go ahead and get it all done at once.

 

[IanRTL]

The water pump replacement is considered a part of the timing belt service, at least to every Honda shop I talked to when shopping around for mine a few years ago. It's an inexpensive part and, if something goes wrong with it in the future (as has happened to you), the entire belt replacement procedure must be done again to replace the pump. The optional parts seem to be the tensioner and cam/crank seals. The tensioner itself is about another $100-125 on top of the price of the normal service, but it makes all kinds of sense to replace it while it's all apart. You'd be foolish to not just replace the belt and tensioner again as well as the other parts you were quoted while it's all apart again. My service with the tensioner replacement ended up being $710 with a discount coupon, so your shop is right in line with their quote. If you put that $800~ into the truck now, a savvy buyer looking for a good, high-mileage RL will be happy to know it's been recently completed. You'll be able to recoup your money through a little higher asking price and a quicker sale.

 

[FTM1]

That sounds more reasonable and kind of what I expected to pay. You're right in the fact that it would probably be easier to sell if I have everything replaced at the same time so I may get on ebay or amazon and just buy the full kit.

I see an aftermarket Gates sticker on the timing cover so I assume the belt was changed around 105K as per the MM by the previous owner. Usually unless you specifically request to have the pump changed out when you have the belt done, most places won't replace it - especially the dealer from what I'm told. Because of this I'm wiling to bet this is the original water pump - which explains why it's leaking.

The dealer will recommend and replace water pump as part of Timing Belt Service. This goes back even in the 1980s with my 80 Prelude when I had it done. The same with my 00 Acura 3.2TL and the 07 Ridgeline. My two Accords did not have the mileage when I traded them in with 43,000 and 62,000.

 

[Flyboy]

Called another shop that I've used before in the past and was quoted $832 for parts and labor which includes new water pump, TB, drive belt, idler pulley, tensioner pulley, and hydrolic tensioner. Also includes the Honda blue Type 2 coolant. I'll probably just go ahead and get it all done at once.

I live in Charlotte as well and my '06 is due for the TB. Can you name the shop? They might get another customer.

I was going to do it myself but Murphy would probably turn a Saturday project into a week long nightmare.

 

[ridged]

I was going to do it myself but Murphy would probably turn a Saturday project into a week long nightmare.

Sounds like my life. :laugh:

 

[speedlever]

When you guys are doing the TB service, don't forget to consider:
- the serpentine belt and tensioner
- PCV valve
- radiator replacement and coolant (~$300-400)
- valve adjustment (~$300 - all labor)
- And I probably forgot something.

While not cheap, taking care of those items should provide you another 100-120k miles of reliable service, assuming the rest of the vehicle is in good shape. And it's still a lot cheaper than buying a new truck!

Note: the suggested radiator replacement is to proactively avoid the SMOD issue. (strawberry milkshake of death) If you don't know what SMOD is, Google it. There are plenty of threads here at the ROC about it. Here's one sample thread with pics of the issue:
http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/...ctures-corroded-rusted-radiator-fittings.html

The valve adjustment is because while Honda says to only adjust the valves if "noisy," noisy valves are loose (too much clearance between the valve stem and the tappet).

The danger comes from tight valves which are quiet, but can cause severe engine damage. Exhaust valves tend to wear into the seat which reduces clearance at the tappet... causing them to become tight with reduced or no clearance between the valve stem and the tappet.

 

[mfs841]

The dealer will recommend and replace water pump as part of Timing Belt Service. This goes back even in the 1980s with my 80 Prelude when I had it done. The same with my 00 Acura 3.2TL and the 07 Ridgeline. My two Accords did not have the mileage when I traded them in with 43,000 and 62,000.

I've never had work done by a dealer before but I said that because that is what the first mechanic told me - he was obviously mistaken because when I got a second quote through the other guy (that I used in the past) he thought that was crazy and never heard of anyone NOT replacing it as part of the TB service, dealer or no dealer. I agree; makes total sense to just get it all done while in the neighborhood.

 

[mfs841]

I live in Charlotte as well and my '06 is due for the TB. Can you name the shop? They might get another customer.

I was going to do it myself but Murphy would probably turn a Saturday project into a week long nightmare.

Sure, its TTS Auto on Old Pineville Rd. Right by the Woodlawn Light Rail station. Used them a couple yrs ago when my 98 Ranger needed some exhaust work done and they were great. They are very transparent; laying out everything you're having done, parts included, cost etc. and don't try to screw you over. Quality of work from what I've experienced so far has been great so hoping to have a similar experience with the Ridge.

[EDIT] Decided to take it to Asia Works on Park Rd in Pineville instead. They specialize in Hondas and have a 5 star rating on google among other places. Pricing is about the same- slightly cheaper ($800+ tax for everything). I drop it off 9/3 and he said it will be done that same day.

 

[IanRTL]

If you put this much money and work into it, do you really want to sell it now?

 

[Flyboy]

Thank, I worked in that area for many years so I'm familiar with it. Never ahd work done there before though. I'll check them out.

 

[Flyboy]

And don't forget all the fluids, and the brakes, and air and cabin filters, and....

 

[mfs841]

If you put this much money and work into it, do you really want to sell it now?

I live in an urban area and walk to work every day and most other places in my neighborhood. If I go out at night on the weekends I'll take an uber because parking sucks everywhere and because I don't like drinking and driving. I might drive the thing 1-2x a week to go to Jiu-Jitsu and run an errand here and there on the weekends. Main reason I'm selling is because it doesn't make sense to have a payment on something I don't use daily. Rather buy a reliable beater for like $2k and call it a day. Honestly if I really wanted I could probably get by without a vehicle living where I do between walking, cyling, public transport, uber etc but I like having something for convienence and in the event I need to move large items or go out of town. Probably looking to get something like an early 2000s Toyota Tacoma cash-money before years end.

 

[IanRTL]

I live in an urban area and walk to work every day and most other places in my neighborhood. If I go out at night on the weekends I'll take an uber because parking sucks everywhere and because I don't like drinking and driving. I might drive the thing 1-2x a week to go to Jiu-Jitsu and run an errand here and there on the weekends. Main reason I'm selling is because it doesn't make sense to have a payment on something I don't use daily. Rather buy a reliable beater for like $2k and call it a day. Honestly if I really wanted I could probably get by without a vehicle living where I do between walking, cyling, public transport, uber etc but I like having something for convienence and in the event I need to move large items or go out of town.

That does make total sense and it's smart of you to really consider what you need. However, I'm not sure a $2000 beater is going to be all that reliable, per se. If you are able to find an early 2000's Civic that is still in decent shape (that has had its airbags replaced) for a few grand, I'd go for it. Just be prepared to put some money into it to keep it in good running order. If you can get away with not having a vehicle for at least a few years and save your money, you'll be in good shape for when you do need one. You're in a position that not many people get to experience.

 

[Carsmak]

I live in an urban area and walk to work every day and most other places in my neighborhood. If I go out at night on the weekends I'll take an uber because parking sucks everywhere and because I don't like drinking and driving. I might drive the thing 1-2x a week to go to Jiu-Jitsu and run an errand here and there on the weekends. Main reason I'm selling is because it doesn't make sense to have a payment on something I don't use daily. Rather buy a reliable beater for like $2k and call it a day. Honestly if I really wanted I could probably get by without a vehicle living where I do between walking, cyling, public transport, uber etc but I like having something for convienence and in the event I need to move large items or go out of town. Probably looking to get something like an early 2000s Toyota Tacoma cash-money before years end.

That does make total sense and it's smart of you to really consider what you need. However, I'm not sure a $2000 beater is going to be all that reliable, per se. If you are able to find an early 2000's Civic that is still in decent shape (that has had its airbags replaced) for a few grand, I'd go for it. Just be prepared to put some money into it to keep it in good running order. If you can get away with not having a vehicle for at least a few years and save your money, you'll be in good shape for when you do need one. You're in a position that not many people get to experience.

This sounds like where I'd love to live some day.

 

[feetdry]

I've always replaced the plugs when I've done the 105,000 mile tb replacement in addition to all those other items.