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I got the new battery installed in my RL. The fan that cools the battery is probably not providing much benefit since the battery case has deformed over 4 years of use. The right side is showing a gap where the cover meets the base of the case. The left side is looking okay. I imagine all used RL's have this deformity.
 

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2008 Ridgeline RTS in Billet Silver Metallic
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Hmm. I never knew there was a fan for battery cooling.
 

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Hmm. I never knew there was a fan for battery cooling.
Yep - and when it dies, you get a charging and AWD system problem messages.

 

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Yep - and when it dies, you get a charging and AWD system problem messages.

Ah, so unique to the G2. Figures. ;)
 

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Yikes. In case anyone needs to replace it themselves, the list price on the 31651-TZ5-A02 fan is $104.
If it fails that easily, I could probably replace it with a 120mm fancy computer case fan. I don't know if I could clear the codes, though.

The nice 120mm fans from outfits like Cooler Master and Thermaltake are $10-$20. I've seen them run fine in some very dusty environments! ;)
 

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If it fails that easily, I could probably replace it with a 120mm fancy computer case fan. I don't know if I could clear the codes, though.

The nice 120mm fans from outfits like Cooler Master and Thermaltake are $10-$20. I've seen them run fine in some very dusty environments! ;)
The typical 120mm "computer fan" is an axial design. Some have an output for fan speed. The Ridgeline's "battery fan" is a Gentherm blower with a forward-curved ("squirrel cage") wheel that also contains a "computer" that communicates over a data bus. Data sent and received over the data bus turns the fan on and off and allows retrieval of DTCs. A generic fan or blower won't allow the DTCs to clear. :)

If the "Honda" battery fan dies, you'll lose AWD until another "Honda" battery fan is installed.

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The typical 120mm "computer fan" is an axial design. Some have an output for fan speed. The Ridgeline's "battery fan" is a Gentherm blower with a forward-curved ("squirrel cage") wheel that also contains a "computer" that communicates over a data bus. Data sent and received over the data bus turns the fan on and off and allows retrieval of DTCs. A generic fan or blower won't allow the DTCs to clear. :)

If the "Honda" battery fan dies, you'll lose AWD until another "Honda" battery fan is installed.

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That sucks! I know the fans I put on my last computer build would vary speed based on CPU temp, but that was all controlled via the mobo.
 

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That sucks! I know the fans I put on my last computer build would vary speed based on CPU temp, but that was all controlled via the mobo.
Yep - that's accomplished by varying the voltage to the fan from the mobo. The Ridgeline's battery fan receives constant 12 volt power and a command is sent over the LIN bus that turns the fan on. :)
 

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I am assuming since this is the first I am reading of this fan, that at least there must not be too many premature failures of them. Wonder what the expected life of said fan is?
 

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Don't feel left out, @speedlever. It cost $368 (including diagnosis) to replace that small fan, according to another forum member.
Lol. I don't feel left out at all! The older I get, the more I enjoy simpler things... which goes against the geek/tweaker in me... but still.... not sure where that internal battle is going yet. :unsure:;)
 

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My 2018 Ridgeline has 35K miles. Last oil change they replaced the battery said it didn't meet the specs on test. Now at dealer for oil change and they replaced the battery again. Drive it most every day and never noticed an issue but it worries me as the warranty is now over.
 

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My 2018 Ridgeline has 35K miles. Last oil change they replaced the battery said it didn't meet the specs on test. Now at dealer for oil change and they replaced the battery again. Drive it most every day and never noticed an issue but it worries me as the warranty is now over.
I’d budget for the next replacement to be a non-OEM battery. I put a COSTCO battery in and one year later seem to have no problem. We’ll see how it goes. I should have checked the date code on the OEM battery, but was too distracted to note it. It went dead within 2 weeks of my purchase of a used 2018 RTL-E with about 70K miles. The dealer reimbursed me as the one I bought it from was about 80 miles away.
 

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I’d budget for the next replacement to be a non-OEM battery. I put a COSTCO battery in and one year later seem to have no problem. We’ll see how it goes. I should have checked the date code on the OEM battery, but was too distracted to note it. It went dead within 2 weeks of my purchase of a used 2018 RTL-E with about 70K miles. The dealer reimbursed me as the one I bought it from was about 80 miles away.
Thanks for that advice, with the third battery being OEM i certainly will go elswhere for another. Some eyars ago I put a Bosch AGM in a past car when I got a coupon at a parts delaer. Expensive battery but top of thline quality. My RTL-T has lots of electronics to draw power, and I will not leave the lights in auto any lponger, that might be the culprit. In any case I hope its just poor quality Honda batteries and not some phantom parasite drain on the battery.
 

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Many parasites on the Ridgeline and all new cars. A CTEK charger and AGM batteries are the best defense!
I haven't made the move to AGM batteries yet, but use CTEK maintainers.
 
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My 2018 Ridgeline has 35K miles. Last oil change they replaced the battery said it didn't meet the specs on test. Now at dealer for oil change and they replaced the battery again. Drive it most every day and never noticed an issue but it worries me as the warranty is now over.
How far do you drive it everyday and what is on? Have you checked the charging?

I think Ridgeline and Pilot have the same ELD as other Honda's (my '08 CRV and '17 Accord do). The alternator has a low output mode controlled by all the sensors that only sends about 12.8 V. to help reduce load for MPG purposes. If you turn on headlights it jumps to 14+V so if you do a lot of short trips, turn your headlights or A/C on.
 

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How far do you drive it everyday and what is on? Have you checked the charging?

I think Ridgeline and Pilot have the same ELD as other Honda's (my '08 CRV and '17 Accord do). The alternator has a low output mode controlled by all the sensors that only sends about 12.8 V. to help reduce load for MPG purposes. If you turn on headlights it jumps to 14+V so if you do a lot of short trips, turn your headlights or A/C on.
My drive to work one way, is 13 miles or about 25 minutes. I normally would keep the headlights set to Auto mode but now keep them off thinking there might be some draw when the vehicle is off sitting in the garage. How does a reduced load on the alternator increase MPG? Interesting, Low output mode, seems counterproductive. In any case, the chances of receiving a bad battery last oil change is slim, but now I might have an issue and not sure what the heck it is. All they tell me at the dealer is that the battery failed its check so they replaced it. All I can do now is wait a few months then check the resting voltage with a Multi meter. I have to assume the dealer checks the Alternator output prior to replacing the batter. I suppose I can check that also with the multi meter, withe and without the lights based on your information, thanks for the help, much appreciated.
 
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