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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

My RL keeps draining the battery so I tried to find the problem point and figured

#7 back up fuse 7.5A (on interior fuse box)

Before I remove the fuse, .70ma
after I remove the fuse, almost non

Has anybody experienced similar problem?

I have already checked the common problems such as
AC Relay, switches, and etc...

Thanks in advance!
 

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2008 Ridgeline RTS in Billet Silver Metallic
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Here are a couple of articles that address parasitic draw:





If neither of these help, check out this video:

Do you have a hitch and wiring harness installed? If so, do you have the OEM harness or a 3rd party wiring harness?
 

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I recall one source of parasitic draw was the rubber boot on the trunk lid switch. It got trapped and was in the "pressed" position all the time.

Chip H.
 
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Didn't the 06' have a bad fuse box?
What item did they give away at the 1st RL Meet? I thought I read it was a new fuse panel, maybe someone else can clarify.
Here is the Power Distribution of No.7 (7.5) Under Dash Fuse/Relay Box...
.
 

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Here are a couple of articles that address parasitic draw:

Do you have a hitch and wiring harness installed? If so, do you have the OEM harness or a 3rd party wiring harness?
I recall one source of parasitic draw was the rubber boot on the trunk lid switch. It got trapped and was in the "pressed" position all the time.

Chip H.

Thank you very much for your response. I've checked these and these were okay. :smile:

Didn't the 06' have a bad fuse box?
What item did they give away at the 1st RL Meet? I thought I read it was a new fuse panel, maybe someone else can clarify.
Here is the Power Distribution of No.7 (7.5) Under Dash Fuse/Relay Box...
.

Yes this fuse has problems,
No.7 (7.5) Under Dash Fuse/Relay Box

I didn't know that 06' have the bad fuse box...

Anybody know about this? Please let me know, thanks!
 

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2006 Ridgeline RTS in Steel Blue
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No, FWIW, the fuse box work done either had to do with the ability to unlock all doors when shifted to park, or possibly the reverse wire in the 7pin trailer harness. But I believe it was related to shifting into park and unlocking all doors.
 

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No, FWIW, the fuse box work done either had to do with the ability to unlock all doors when shifted to park, or possibly the reverse wire in the 7pin trailer harness. But I believe it was related to shifting into park and unlocking all doors.

As I recall, the very early 2006 models had to have a fuse box replaced along with a corrected harness to overcome early wiring design errors with the original harness ??? (4 pin vs. 7 pin etc.)
 

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Hello,

My RL keeps draining the battery so I tried to find the problem point and figured

#7 back up fuse 7.5A (on interior fuse box)

Before I remove the fuse, .70ma
after I remove the fuse, almost non

Has anybody experienced similar problem?

I have already checked the common problems such as
AC Relay, switches, and etc...

Thanks in advance!

Did you ever find a solution to this parasitic battery drain coming through the driver's side interior kick panel fuse box #7 back up fuse? I am now experiencing the exact same problem on my 2013 Ridgeline.
 

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Did you ever find a solution to this parasitic battery drain coming through the driver's side interior kick panel fuse box #7 back up fuse? I am now experiencing the exact same problem on my 2013 Ridgeline.
We had the battery drain problem few years ago 2007 Ridgeline. I posted on here about door lock actuator in rear door. I forget all the details but it had a parasitic draw when dealer checked it. When key fob remote was pressed to lock one rear door would sometime not lock or button work but it was causing the draw. Not sure but think may have had A/C relay problem also if so I posted. But the battery had to be jumped several times when this was going on. I am not primary driver of Ridgeline like I was first 2yrs of ownership so not always up on what's going on until needs a dealer service visit.
 

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Thank you to all. The fix for my parasitic battery drain was caused by the stuck in-bed trunk lid switch. After I removed the cover from the in-bed trunk lid switch, I noticed that the switch staying engaged causing a constant 12V demand at the switch.
 
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