Honda Ridgeline Owners Club Forums banner

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

Registered
Joined
1,670 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
For various reasons, one or several of our Hondas has to be left for days, sometimes over a week or two at a remote location, no electrical hookup is possible.

Have considered connecting a 2nd battery in a parallel connection with the goal of slowly depleting both as the electronics chew away at the batteries.

What would be the unintended consequence of leaving a beefy jump starter permanently connected in this setting?

Yes, the jump starter would be disconnected once someone visits the location and needs to drive.

Yes, I know, one could simply connect the jump battery at the time of revisiting the remote location, start car, disconnect and drive away. The goal here is not to have an almost dead battery but to have at least 12.6 volts or higher remaining. No electrical hookup exists and solar is not an option at this site.

If the jump starter does not have low discharge protection, that system may be sacrificed -- are there recommended / known jump starters (looked at our JNCxxx but could not determine) with such a protection ?
 

Registered
Joined
852 Posts
I have considered installing a trickle charger permanently into the Ridgeline with an easily accessible external plug, but I have been concerned that maybe the charger itself might become a source of accelerated discharging?

Bill
 

Registered
Joined
1,670 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
We already have CTEK Quick Connect coupling plugin installed on all our Hondas accessible in front without keys or tools, not just the RLs. This situation does not allow any type of electrical feed unless we lugged a generator, setup a shack, set it to auto start on a timer, fed battery for a few hours at night ..... too much design for this application.
 

Registered
Joined
110 Posts
Also, your car should really be able to sit for a week or more without depleting the battery. If it is, you likely need a new battery or find a source of some parasitic draw.
 

Registered
Joined
10 Posts
There are quick start options that feed into a 12v socket and jump starter small electronic units that are used for emergence jump starting. Check Harbor Freight or Northern Tools for options.

MLogan
2018 Ridgeline RTL-T
Smyrna, TN
 

Registered
Joined
110 Posts
There are quick start options that feed into a 12v socket and jump starter small electronic units that are used for emergence jump starting.

Please don't use any device that is described as being able to help jump start via being plugged into to the 12v cigarette lighter socket.

This area is fused for, like, 10 amps max and is usually an ignition switched source and not a direct line to the battery.
 

Registered
Joined
1,263 Posts
Your other option would be to add an aftermarket remote starter setup. As long as the truck was outside. A phone connecting setup like GM's Onstar would work and with the timeout of the RL it would probably just shutoff at 10minutes. That would keep the battery charged enough.

Steve
 

Registered
2019 RTL-E (white on beige) in central Texas
Joined
1,220 Posts
For various reasons, one or several of our Hondas has to be left for days, sometimes over a week or two at a remote location, no electrical hookup is possible.
Just curious, is this a location subject to frequent near-freezing / sub-freezing temperature?
 

Registered
2019 RTL-E (white on beige) in central Texas
Joined
1,220 Posts
Yes, some of our locations are at minus 30 C or below.
BRRRR ! 'Nuff said, this temperate-zone Texan wishes you good luck finding a workable solution :)

Also, your car should really be able to sit for a week or more without depleting the battery. If it is, you likely need a new battery or find a source of some parasitic draw.
Methinks the above added temperature info explains the situation. Rough duty for even a great condition battery and normal very low-current 'vehicle off' load.
 

Registered
Joined
110 Posts
Methinks the above added temperature info explains the situation. Rough duty for even a great condition battery and normal very low-current 'vehicle off' load.
That info definitely sheds some new light, but it still seems like the simplest solution is to just disconnect the battery (or install a cut off switch) until needed. Much simplier than wiring a parallel battery.
 

Registered
2019 RTL-E (white on beige) in central Texas
Joined
1,220 Posts
That info definitely sheds some new light, but it still seems like the simplest solution is to just disconnect the battery (or install a cut off switch) until needed. Much simplier than wiring a parallel battery.
May be.

Lacking experience with that very cold environment I'm unable to comment on the 'CCA retention' of even a healthy flooded-cell battery, fully disconnected and sitting unattended for ~weeks in those decidedly sub-freezing temperatures.

IMO @henni is wise to ask about 'unintended consequences' of a second battery connection; modern in-vehicle battery condition monitoring systems can be fraught with pitfalls.

I know, for example, that late-model Fords use a 'sensor module' located on the negative (ground) battery cable integral with the battery terminal connection / clamp of that ground cable.

It's critical in that case that any jump or secondary battery be connected to the chassis-end of the negative / ground cable, not directly to the battery post or the cable-connector at the post. The former allows the on-vehicle systems to account for the effect of the jump / secondary battery input, the latter does not, with the result that the vehicle charging strategy is inappropriately altered and may not then maintain proper voltage output when the vehicle is returned to normal use.

In that Ford system it's perfectly OK to connect the positive jump / aux battery lead directly to the positive battery post / terminal.

Yes, it's prudent for safety reasons to always make a jump-connection to a chassis ground, but many ignore that best-practice and go straight for the negative battery post / terminal when connecting a trickle-charger, 'maintainer', or semi-permanent secondary battery; with unintended bad consequences on those Fords.
 

Registered
Joined
905 Posts
What have you done in the past for this location and how are you powering the block heater?
 

Registered
2019 RTL-E (white on beige) in central Texas
Joined
1,220 Posts
What electronics would be affected if the battery is disconnected for an extended period of time?

Bill
In the case of the Ford system, nothing detrimental if the battery were disconnected by unbolting the negative cable at the chassis-end, or a disconnect switch is installed between the end of that cable and the chassis, or complete removal of the battery. A switch / disconnect on the positive-side of the battery could be problematic.

I won't hazard a guess as to the proper place for an extended-period in-situ battery disconnect on the Honda, lacking knowledge of it's systems in this regard.

Of course any extended battery disconnect will affect features dependent on volatile memory devices (perhaps things like phone pairings, radio station presets, etc?). In the case of the Ford, battery disconnect for ~15 minutes or more even clears the 'learned adaptive transmission shifting strategy', resetting that to it's default baseline for 're-learning' the driver-specific strategy from scratch. None of that's detrimental per-se, just can be a bit of an inconvenience; the Ford is intentionally designed to reset all those things to default after a ~15 minute disconnect as a tool for wiping 'glitches' from those systems (capacitors are used to hold the settings for a few minutes to allow battery replacement without the inconvenient loss of volatile memory). On the Honda 鈥.. ?
 

Registered
Joined
905 Posts
Cold temps like that kill batteries regardless if there is a parasitic drain or not.

Use to live on the prairie and the old Chevy had a block heater, a cab heater and a tiny electric blanket on the battery. If it was plugged in it would always start even -40 F. People with diesel trucks would just leave them idling all night.
 

Super Moderator
2008 Ridgeline RTS in Billet Silver Metallic
Joined
22,882 Posts
I'm wondering if an AGM battery might be a better solution for your vehicles in those scenarios? Wouldn't the AGM battery hold up better under those conditions?
 

Premium Member
2011 VP Bali Blue Pearl
Joined
197 Posts
Perhaps a solar charging unit? Solar panels seem to be quite the rage nowdays and I'm thinking that someone has a panel unit that will provide the 12VDC needed.
 

Registered
Joined
1,222 Posts
What I do for my Waverunner stored offsite and would work is a Battery Tender Jr. And quick disconnect with a Battery Tender solar charger.
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top