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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I've been reading the forum for awhile now, and I love the new look. You guys are really helpful for everything Ridgeline. It's awesome.

My son is getting older, and I want to start doing small to medium truck jobs with him. I'm good with my hands and have a fairly broad background.

What I don't have is specific ridgeline knowledge. I've got a 2014 SE.

If I wanted to do an A12 service, I know that's oil, brake fluid, tire rotation, check the drive belt, and filters.

I think I've got the filter stuff down, but before I take the plunge on the oil and brake fluid I wanted to see if you guys have any recommendation on Ridge specific tools. Is there a particular torque wrench you like? A particular brand of oil filter? Brand of brake fluid?

I know not to chince out on brake fluid, but I don't really have a good lead on oil filters.

So, really, my hope for this thread would be to compile a list of tools and products that make caring for the Ridge easier.
 

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2006 Ridgeline RTS in Steel Blue
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OP, There are many threads on the topics you asked about, if you try the search in the upper right side, change the setting to VB Search \/ (use the down arrow) several threads, loads of good reading.

In addition to the OEM Filter also refered to as the A01 by Filtech there is also a filter by Mahle which many like, I've been a fan of the KN Oil filters, I like the 1" nut on the end, but not a necessity on the RL because of the ease of access, others like the WIX, others like the Purolator Pure One. YMMV
 
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For a torque wrench, I've been happy with Craftsman from Sears. Get a 20-150 ft. lb. model for general use (tire lug-nuts, etc.) which is 1/2" drive, and a 25-250 in. lb. (note: Inch Pounds!) for things like spark plugs, which is 3/8" drive.

Think about picking up a 1/2" breaker bar while you're there. You shouldn't use a torque wrench to loosen bolts - you can damage it. Use the breaker bar for that.

Chip H.
 

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It doesn't sound like you're headed that way just yet, but if you decide you want to change some of the other fluids underneath (VTM-4, Transmission, Transfer Case); one rule to always keep in mind: Be sure you can remove the fill plug (make sure it's not so tight you can't get it off) before you remove the drain plug & let out all of your fluid. Otherwise you're stranded.
Some of those plugs are known to be Big Gorilla tight; especially if they've never been removed.
 

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2008 Ridgeline RTS in Billet Silver Metallic
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Ditto the recommended torque wrenches above... the wrench is most accurate in the middle of the range. So for wheel nuts at 94 lb-ft, the 20-150 lb-ft range is spot on. For spark plugs at 13 lb-ft (156 lb-in), the 25-250 lb-in range is fine.

Personally, I don't worry about using my 20-150 lb-ft to torque drain and fill bolts in the 33-36 lb-ft range (near the bottom end of the range). That should be close enough for gov't work. ;) But I like accurate torques for spark plugs (aluminum heads) and wheel nuts.

Here's a 1/4 inch 40-250 lb-in TW that several of us have for spark plug duty.
Neiko Pro® 03706B 1/4-Inch Drive Adjustable Torque Wrench, 40 to 250-Inch Pound | Chrome Vanadium - Inch Pound Torque Wrench - Amazon.com

I doubt you'll need anything higher than 150 lb-ft for the other normal service items unless you plan to do your own timing belt (crankshaft bolt).

I also use a traditional 20 in 4-way speed wrench to loosen the wheelnuts and to do the initial spin back on after a tire rotation. I then follow that up with my 10-150 lb-ft TW to the required spec.

Regarding the oil filter, be aware that there are two known OEM filters. The preferred one is the -01 mentioned above (made by Filtech). The -02 is made by Fram and is generally panned due to cardboard end caps. So stick with the -01 OEM filter... or other quality filter as mentioned above.

You'll find that the RL is pretty easy to work on for normal routine maintenance. I like to have 4 jackstands and a floor jack so I can lift it enough to do tire rotations and brake work (pad changes and fluid changes). My personal favs are Torin 6t double locking jack stands from Northern Tool/Amazon/Tractor Supply. I like them because I can lift my RL enough to get all wheels off the ground and only use the mid-range of the adjustable lift (around 18-19 inches to the saddle with a lifting range of roughly 15.5 to 23.75 inches). I have some other, lower capacity j/s that while they offer plenty of capacity, they are near the top end of the adjustable lift and don't seem nearly as stable as the higher capacity j/s at half height.

http://www.amazon.com/Torin-T46002A-Double-Locking-Jack/dp/B00026Z3DQ

Comparison of my j/s. Here you can see top of the lifting range vs middle (3t, 4t, and 6t - left to right):


I'm personally a fan of OEM fluids for everything except engine oil and hypoid gear oil for the transfer assembly. I suggest no substitute for tranny fluid, VTM-4 fluid and coolant. Also, the rear diff (VTM-4 fluid) does not like to be contaminated. I suggest you keep a gallon hand pump/tubing dedicated to this fluid. I keep mine stored in double gallon ziplock bags between uses and clean with denatured alcohol.

This will be a great learning experience for your son! Enjoy!
 

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Second the recommendation for using Honda-brand fluids in critical systems.

Transmission, differential, power steering, coolant.

Others can be any good quality brand that meets the specifications.

Oil, brake, transfer case, windshield washer.

Chip H.
 
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