I'm trying to locate where the blend door actuator is. Does anyone have any idea and if so, what do you have to do to change this? The A/C has been working fine and then one day after having the heater on, the a/c doesn't want to come back on. I hear the compressor coming on, so someone told me it may be this. Please help
Blend door actuator
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Part #'s 19 and 20 here:
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com...ROOF)&catcgry4=KA5AT&catcgry5=HEATER+UNIT+(2)
Chip H.
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com...ROOF)&catcgry4=KA5AT&catcgry5=HEATER+UNIT+(2)
Chip H.
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25,322 Posts
Thank your lucky stars you don't own a Ford Ranger/Sport-Trac/Explorer from the mid-90s to the 2010s. Most of the blend doors fail early and the whole dash has to come out of the vehicle to get to it. It's a big, expensive job. There is at least one aftermarket solution that involves sawing the plenum apart, replacing the blend door with a more robust design, and gluing the plenum back together - a very inelegant solution at best.
Hi Chip
It seems your link does not work today 2020..... Can you refresh your post??
Thanks
Jim
Sorry Jim. I don't think Chip's been around here for several years. What info are you requesting?
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14 Posts
Since I landed here looking for the same info, here's the updated link to what I am confident is the same diagram:
Heater Unit (1) for 2006 Honda Ridgeline | Majestic Honda Automotive Parts
I just did this repair (not replacement) on the Drivers side. I removed the part, opened it up, cleaned the electrical contact points on the surface of the spinning gear (not the motor), reapplied fresh dielectric grease and now it works like new. The hardest part is removing the top fastener of the air outlet "funnel" blocking access to the actuator assembly. The two bottom fasteners (phillips head &/or 7mm head) on the HVAC outlet are easy compared to the top fastener that you cannot see unless your head is the size of a golf ball and your neck is flexible enough to rotate it 180 degrees. I found one useful Youtube vid showing the location of the problem fastener, another vid showing the remove/install of the part and a 3rd vid on the opening and cleaning of the part if you want to try this $1.00 repair before spending $140+ for the OEM part. It took more time for me, (65 y.o. not so flexible, a bit over weight dude) to remove that top fastener than the rest of the job. It's tough to squeeze into that uncomfortable and tight space on one's back, freeing my arms up partially to "work", with lighting pre positioned, and tools balanced on chest to be able to grab them once properly positioned. I knew I'd be in that position for a long time with trial and error attempts to access and remove that top fastener so I built a little platform extension out the drivers door to support my back and rear end with some cushions to extend my working time before it all became too uncomfortable and I started cramping up. This is one of those jobs I wrote off as impossible until I saw someone else do it successfully on Youtube. Push the parking brake in all the way to increase clearance when squeezing in. Pickup some small battery powered magnetic backed lights to position in the work area out of the way (I used harbor freight) a head lamp might be enough if it does not have battery pack on the back of the head band. I used a 1/4" ratchet, a 6" extension and a 7mm socket. I also used a "swivel joint" between the ratchet and the extension but I'm not sure I actually needed it. It might have helped to initially get the socket on the head of the fastener but it definitely became more of a bother (due to floppiness) once I started unscrewing. Go to the home Youtube page of Barbour's Auto Help. Under the Video category/heading, go down 21 rows to find the removal video and the repair video right next to each other. The work is done on a 2005 Odyessy. I'll put links below. Use the info above if the links don't work. I'll also try to find the video that shows where that elusive top fastener is located (next to the 90 degree elbow of the semi-clear inside air temperature tube. I did remove the lower dash panel to provide a tiny bit of extra viewing area before digging in. It prys out pretty easy, there are friction clips along the top and the bottom and one screw on the far left side (against the door when closed) that needs to be removed. That screw is covered by a small flat vertical plastic panel that must be pried out first to see and remove the screw. Again it comes out easily and goes back in with no finesse required or understanding of where the clips are and where to pry or put pressure.
Barbour's home page - https://www.youtube.com/c/BarboursAutoHelp/videos
Barbour's remove/install Blend Door Actuator -
Barbour's clean/repair actuator contact surfaces -
At the 16 second mark in the video below (0:16 on the counter) I found this to be the most helpful clue in visualizing the location and orientation of the top fastener -
Barbour's home page - https://www.youtube.com/c/BarboursAutoHelp/videos
Barbour's remove/install Blend Door Actuator -
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1 Posts
I've got this problem with my 2014 Honda Ridgeline.... and there is no way my 63 y/o body will allow me to do this DIY repair..... What is a fair price I can expect to pay at a Honda dealership for this repair?
It would be best to call the Dealership.
The problem may be something less or more.
Depending on the exact issue, the is usually a set book price for the repair you need.
If it's the issue of grease on the contact wheel, (which you won't know until you open it up after removing it from the truck), Honda will want to simply replace the part. And that will be expensive... a couple hundred bucks for the part alone, iirc.
The link is no longer working, would you please update the link? My 2010 Ridgeline may have a problem with this door, system seems to be operating correctly except no cool air is coming out the vents.
Chris H
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25,322 Posts
That member hasn't logged on to this forum in five years.
Heater Unit (2) for 2010 Honda Ridgeline | Majestic Honda Automotive Parts
www.hondaautomotiveparts.com
Part numbers 19 and 20.
Thank you very much zroger73!That member hasn't logged on to this forum in five years.
Heater Unit (2) for 2010 Honda Ridgeline | Majestic Honda Automotive Parts
Part numbers 19 and 20.
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2 Posts
My 09 RTL AC was working fine. I live in the Phoenix AZ area and it is now late October. In the morning it can be cool and heat up during the afternoon. This morning I started it up and raised the temp up because it was cold (80 degress on both driver and passenger). Now it will not cool down but the compressor clutch is spinning fine and the hose to the evap is cold. The drivers, passenger and rear vents are all warm. Also if I change the mode to point to the floor (heater mode), it just blows out of the top AC vents.
Does this sound like a problem with the actuator(s) or something else?
Thanks,
Bob
Does this sound like a problem with the actuator(s) or something else?
Thanks,
Bob
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