I just did this repair (not replacement) on the Drivers side. I removed the part, opened it up, cleaned the electrical contact points on the surface of the spinning gear (not the motor), reapplied fresh dielectric grease and now it works like new. The hardest part is removing the top fastener of the air outlet "funnel" blocking access to the actuator assembly. The two bottom fasteners (phillips head &/or 7mm head) on the HVAC outlet are easy compared to the top fastener that you cannot see unless your head is the size of a golf ball and your neck is flexible enough to rotate it 180 degrees. I found one useful Youtube vid showing the location of the problem fastener, another vid showing the remove/install of the part and a 3rd vid on the opening and cleaning of the part if you want to try this $1.00 repair before spending $140+ for the OEM part. It took more time for me, (65 y.o. not so flexible, a bit over weight dude) to remove that top fastener than the rest of the job. It's tough to squeeze into that uncomfortable and tight space on one's back, freeing my arms up partially to "work", with lighting pre positioned, and tools balanced on chest to be able to grab them once properly positioned. I knew I'd be in that position for a long time with trial and error attempts to access and remove that top fastener so I built a little platform extension out the drivers door to support my back and rear end with some cushions to extend my working time before it all became too uncomfortable and I started cramping up. This is one of those jobs I wrote off as impossible until I saw someone else do it successfully on Youtube. Push the parking brake in all the way to increase clearance when squeezing in. Pickup some small battery powered magnetic backed lights to position in the work area out of the way (I used harbor freight) a head lamp might be enough if it does not have battery pack on the back of the head band. I used a 1/4" ratchet, a 6" extension and a 7mm socket. I also used a "swivel joint" between the ratchet and the extension but I'm not sure I actually needed it. It might have helped to initially get the socket on the head of the fastener but it definitely became more of a bother (due to floppiness) once I started unscrewing. Go to the home Youtube page of Barbour's Auto Help. Under the Video category/heading, go down 21 rows to find the removal video and the repair video right next to each other. The work is done on a 2005 Odyessy. I'll put links below. Use the info above if the links don't work. I'll also try to find the video that shows where that elusive top fastener is located (next to the 90 degree elbow of the semi-clear inside air temperature tube. I did remove the lower dash panel to provide a tiny bit of extra viewing area before digging in. It prys out pretty easy, there are friction clips along the top and the bottom and one screw on the far left side (against the door when closed) that needs to be removed. That screw is covered by a small flat vertical plastic panel that must be pried out first to see and remove the screw. Again it comes out easily and goes back in with no finesse required or understanding of where the clips are and where to pry or put pressure.
Barbour's home page - https://www.youtube.com/c/BarboursAutoHelp/videos
Barbour's remove/install Blend Door Actuator -
Barbour's clean/repair actuator contact surfaces -
At the 16 second mark in the video below (0:16 on the counter) I found this to be the most helpful clue in visualizing the location and orientation of the top fastener -