Very interesting swap! Makes a lot more sense to me to give the Ridge the low end grunt that it needs rather than mods that give it more power at high RPMs where I am almost never spending any time. . .
Can you give some more details?
Year and model range of Acura donor vehicle?
What parts other than the engine need to come along?
How much $ do you expect to pay on the tuner end of the project?
Please keep the updates coming. Very interested in performance as well as things like gas mileage etc.
I know for a fact that the 09-2013 TL SH-AWD engine will fit the 09-2014 ridgeline. Prior 06-08 RLs I am not sure and would need to do some research. The bigger issue for 06-08 is that KTuner does not yet offer support. Send them emails and buy our RLs will become a higher priority
Here is where I am at currently.
Before the swap I tore into the J37 and did the following… Timing Belt, Water Pump, Spark Plugs, F &R Crank Seals, Cam Seals, Valve Adjustment.
· My truck is a 2013 Ridgeline RTL
· Swap Started at 41500 Vehicle Miles
· 3.7L Acura TL SH-AWD J37A4 Engine w/ Intake Manifold 52k miles (any J37 will fit, decide based on goals... the J37A4 is best)
· 3.7L Acura RL Throttle Body (since engine didn’t come with one and the Ridge TB is smaller)
· 3.7L Acura ZDX Air intake Tube w/ 3.5” 30° aluminum bend to reach stock airbox. (Stock rubber tube will not fit larger TB bore… Buy the ZDX hose clamps too)
· Stock ridgeline Intake Manifold spacer is installed for optimal low end torque
· RV6 Pre-cat Deletes
· RV6 J-Pipe (w/ stock 3rd Cat)
· 2012 Accord v6 MT Intake Manifold Cover (on order)
· K-Tuner – eTune by Turbogixxer (in progress) - Dyno session + final tuning by Bisimoto about a month away
· New Honda Air Filter
· 5w30 M1 High Mileage Engine Oil (will not use 20wt oil, too many cases of engine damage, cam wear etc…)
· Remote spin-on ATF Filter
· Everything Else is Stock…
Random stream of thoughts:
Definitely Install the IM spacer into whatever 3.7 you choose for the RL. This “truck” is heavy and needs all the twist it can get!
Keep the J37 Denso Injectors, They are larger. Also use the injector clips from J37 wire harness.
GET TUNED! KTuner works INCREDIBLY well...
To ensure parts compatibility, do some research on any Honda parts website. They have drawings that are really helpful. Google image search and eBay are your friends for finding pictures of anything for comparison.
BIG HINT: Take ALL accessories off the j37 and install the ridgeline parts. This includes the right side mounting bracket which can’t be removed without removing the crank pulley & lower timing cover. Wire Harness, Coolant Passage, Evap connections, AC Compressor bracket, P/S Pump bracket from the front head.
Don’t let the crank pulley bolt ruin your day… This goes for timing belt jobs too. These are torqued to 180ft lbs. I had to use a ¾” Impact with a ½” air hose and regulator to break the donor engine CP bolt loose… BE Warned. I tried a ¾” breaker bar with 3’ cheater pipe and the ½” breaker bar on the pulley holder tool was flexing A LOT. I didn’t want to break the smaller Proto breaker bar so out came the dinosaur ¾” impact. The thing came off in 2 seconds
I was wrong about the transmission being exactly the same as the TL SH-AWD… It is VERY SIMILAR but the TL does have one extra friction and steel in the 3rd clutch pack. Time will tell how the RL tranny handles the power. I will be sure to update this thread if there are any issues at all. If I blow the RL trans I will weigh my options at that time. *FYI if my driving style doesn't break it nobody's will...
Dyno tuning will be done with rear driveshaft removed as the VTM4 system does not allow consistent results on a 4WD dyno due to the variable electromagnetic clutches. I budgeted $600 for tuning. Some could get it dont for about 300-400 but I demand perfection.
Im averaging about 15mpg and thats including WOT runs on every drive for the tuning process. It will get better once im not datalogging.
ONCE AGAIN >>> GET TUNED! Don’t flake out on the most important step!
That is all for now guys