[VolvoFan]

I agree, and hope I didn’t shoot myself in the foot somehow, some way during the install. Would be quite a coincidence if it were unrelated. I was meticulous with my work and used all OEM parts, but who knows? I’ll certainly do a post-mortem once I have the old engine out.

-Jon

 

[smufguy]

If you are going the Ktuner route, you need to speak with one of the dealers & tuners on those specifics regarding the G1 Ridgeline.

As far as swapping an engine....... Since the folks who swapped the motor into the Ridgeline are not active here, I would recommend that either you do full research by comparing engines on your own, looking at facebook groups, or speaking with a engine builder familiar with the J-series. To make things easy and straight forward, sticking with a Z4 block would be best.
There are guys on Facebook discussing a 'stroker' kits using a J37A1 crank and rods, with J35A8 pistons ('08 TL-S piston with 11.0 to 1 compression). Your stock Z4 has 10.5:1 compression. Do know the Acura recommends premium fuel, along with a different engine management parameters.

The point is, it can get a little too complicated between sensors, VCM, emission control systems, etc etc when switching to a different engine. Since none of the J37 blocks are VCM equipped, I am not sure how the oiling and pistons would cope when mated to your Pilot and the VCM decides to kick in. However, you can swap an engine, get the electronics sorted out and use a VCM defeat device to prevent the engine from going into VCM mode. I do not recommend this as some of those who have done this have seen emission related issues, while others have not. Additionally, I am not comfortable with such a defeat device and its implications, thus I do not advocate it.

 

[speedlever]

I have heard of several TB failures shortly after replacement. I'm really curious what may have caused this.

 

[smufguy]

I have heard of several TB failures shortly after replacement. I'm really curious what may have caused this.

I think it could be attributed to quality of workmanship.

Just from my personal experience, I got mine changed at a dealership. I have performed some very aggressive tests with the truck for both my brake and suspension modifications. Still the replacement is holding up fine. When the dreaded code #4 shows up, then I believe I would take it to the dealership.

 

[VolvoFan]

I would pit my own workmanship against that of a dealer or indie mechanic without hesitation. I have all the proper tools for the job, know how to use them, follow instructions to the letter, and I properly torque ALL the things.

I’m only human and certainly could have missed something, but I’d say the odds of failure caused by human error in my case are the same as odds from a dealer-done job.

As for stroking out the existing block... certainly a possibility, but time is also of the essence so I’m leaning towards a “whole block” swap if it’s possible. I’ll try to check out some of those other enthusiast resources suggested. Thank you!

 

[IanRTL]

I would pit my own workmanship against that of a dealer or indie mechanic without hesitation. I have all the proper tools for the job, know how to use them, follow instructions to the letter, and I properly torque ALL the things.

I’m only human and certainly could have missed something, but I’d say the odds of failure caused by human error in my case are the same as odds from a dealer-done job.

As for stroking out the existing block... certainly a possibility, but time is also of the essence so I’m leaning towards a “whole block” swap if it’s possible. I’ll try to check out some of those other enthusiast resources suggested. Thank you!

I feel the same way when it comes to dealer vs. my own work. I am very meticulous and do things more thoroughly than a dealership tech who is trying to get vehicles in and out as fast as possible to make the most money. However, on high importance jobs like the timing belt, it's worth the extra $300 or so in labor to have the dealership do it. Although we're likely using the same parts and going through the same processes, if a part fails within the warranty period and lunches the engine, it's on them. The timing belt service, radiator swap, and valve clearance adjustment services are the only times my truck has ever been to the dealership in my 10+ years of ownership. I could have done these myself, but for the reasons stated earlier, I let the "pros" handle it.

If you're diving into a J37 swap into a Pilot, please take plenty of pictures, document the process, and post it here. I'm sure many would be very interested in it as well as the final results.

 

[VolvoFan]

Very good points. The shop labor is like “insurance” on the job. I never looked at it that way, but certainly will going forward.
You know what they say... “good judgment comes from experience; experience comes from poor judgment.”

 

[IanRTL]

I don't think you should feel bad about anything. Saving several hundred dollars doing it yourself has basically been a way of life for me for a long time. Your skills didn't let you down. The parts seemingly did. You may want to try looking into your source for purchasing the parts. If they have a warranty, you may at least have some recourse for them. Then again, it would be very difficult to fully PROVE they weren't installed improperly. That's kind of the rub with warranties on parts like brake pads, rotors, tires, etc. "Well, these pads obviously weren't installed properly, so we can't warranty them." "Well, the alignment on your vehicle obviously wasn't right, so we can't warranty these tires." Just like Tommy Callahan said, "a guy puts a guarantee on a box because he wants you to feel all warm and toasty inside... because they know all they sold you was a guaranteed piece of s***."

 

[VolvoFan]

LOL, nice Tommy Boy reference... but true. Bought kit through eBay. All sure looked like OEM Honda but I guess you can never be 100% sure?