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Bob's 3.7L M90 Supercharged Build

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j37 swap
183K views 288 replies 54 participants last post by  VolvoFan 
#1 · (Edited)
Here is my current progress. Going to use the stock intake mani spacer to keep the torque curve low. Already have KTuner and Bisimoto is gonna take care of the actual tuning.

305hp on tap will be a HUGE improvement. :grin:
 

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#3 ·
Do you have to fab anything to effect this swap? Engine mounts in the same places, etc?
 
#4 ·
Everything is in the same spot. The 09+ RL and TL SH-AWD engines are both based on the R70 casting. The water passage, pass side mount and ac compressor bracket need to be reused from the Ridge since the TL parts are slightly different. Its all just a matter of swapping parts out.
 
#6 ·
Nice! Keep us updated on the progress.
 
#7 ·
Huh. That's pretty ambitious considering your RL is a 2013. How many miles are on your original motor? Is there anything wrong with it or do you just want the extra hp?
 
#8 ·
I have about 42k miles on the truck and it runs flawlessly. I need power like dudes need chicks with big racks hahaha

I've modded every car I've ever had. When I'm done with the truck, it will drive just like new, but with more power. In the past I've had boosted cars, different engine swaps and have built plenty of Transmissions. I love Hondas and I will push the envelope with the Ridgeline at least in naturally aspirated form.
 
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#47 ·
Very cool project. I wish I had the knowledge to take on a project like this. I can do brakes, struts, plugs, and that kinda thing...but this is a little outta my league.

So, whatta ya gonna do with the "old" motor with 42k miles on it? You can take the engine out of my '06, that has almost 190k on it, and install your old engine in it if you want another project. Heck, I'd even help and supply all the beer...! :act024:
 
#11 ·
So long term goals, plans and what not?

Just guessing, it will ultimately end up on a 4 wheel dyno?

What are you going to do with the 42k motor from the RL? Will it end up in a S2K or some other 4 Cyl Honda/Acura? Or just plan to sell it?

Please keep us posted...
 
#13 ·
It's ALIVE!!! MWAHAHA

Idling in the driveway purging the cooling system. No CEL or anything yet haha. Should be test driving within the hour.

Still need to put the PS pump and belt on too.

Ill probably hand correct the manual with "Premium Only... Dont even think about it!"
 

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#15 ·
Just got back from a short test drive. I didn't pass 2500 rpm and kept the throttle light-ish. It does feel much more eager to go and has more low end for sure!!

I can't wait to get to the Tuner. I was seeing some lean AFRs so I'm probably going to see if I can fatten it up some and maybe start a basic e-tune somewhere before the real thing. Dont want to blow this sweet engine!!!
 
#19 ·
Wooot!!!! Just drove it to dinner and its awesome! Much more low end torque and when its in closed loop the AFR is spot on. Under WOT it's got good power but is super rich due to the larger injectors with the stock Ridge tune. Once the tune is completed ill have some dyno results for everyone.
 
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#20 ·
Man, that's AWESOME!!!!!

Can't wait for the Dyno sheet, I doubt the Tranny will have issue with the 50+ hp gain, I'd be more concerned with the VTM-4.
 
#21 ·
Since the VTM4 diff is clutch based, it can only transfer a fixed amount of torque. As long as I'm not spinning the front wheels there should be minimal extra wear to the rear diff. At least that is my thought on it.
 
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#22 ·
I confess that I've never understood the mechanism by which Honda limits the power transfer to 70% to the rear wheels. (or transfers up to 70%, as has been advertised).

Is clutch slip the mechanism by which only 10% (as directed by the ECU) is sent to the rear wheels? Or what limits the power going to the rear at 70% max?
 
#23 · (Edited)
The way I understand it, the VTM-4 diff is controlled through pulse-width modulation to the coils inside the unit. The coils squeeze clutch packs to create friction. This friction is what drives the rear tires up to 70% of the engines available torque. The 1G RL's VTM-4 design has similar clutches to an automatic transmission except it's electronic vs hydraulic. Due to a limitation of the coils capability to shed heat they cannot increase the holding power any further. This is why the new VTM-4 system is hydraulic

Now in my situation it will max out sooner, being able to transfer less of the engine's output. This means I could potentially get front wheel spin and damage the rear differential. I figure as long as I'm not an idiot I won't have any problems... At least that's what I hope for. Worst case if I do grenade the rear differential, it's much easier to replace than the transmission and they're a dime a dozen. :)
 
#30 ·
So basically the amount of power that goes to the rear wheels is a function of how much or how little clutch slip occurs as determined by the ECU?

I.E., a lot of slip means a small amount of power is directed to the rear wheels and a little bit of slip means the max amount of power is going to the rear wheels?

If that is the case, I wonder why there is so little debris on the rear diff mag plug when I change the VTM-4 fluid? I see much more debris on the tranny mag plug and I change tranny fluid much more frequently than rear diff fluid... About 2x more often (every 13-14k miles for tranny vs 30k miles for the rear diff).
 
#24 ·
I'm curious why you didn't (or couldn't) use the transaxle that came with the Acura engine. Supposedly you wouldn't have to worry about the horsepower blowing up the transmission.

Would you loose the 4WD option, but earn a full time AWD? Does the Acura AWD set up fit in the Ridgeline? Would you have to change out the rear Axle as well.

For a street truck, that seems advantageous, but if you're going off road a lot, maybe 4WD is needed.
 
#25 ·
Actually if I were to pull the 5at out of an Acura TL sh-awd its direct bolt in. The transmission is essentially identical as far as I know. The RL trans is very bulletproof and really isnt a weakness like previous Honda automatics. It fits perfectly with the swap and gear changes are crisp and quick even with WOT runs.

The sh-awd diff will not fit without rear subframe modifications and then it's a matter of figuring out how to make the electronics control it. I wasn't feeling overly ambitious at this point to tackle that. Really I would prefer one of the new hydraulically controlled vtm-4 or shawd differentials.
 
#26 ·
So you say the weak link is the Ridgeline rear diff. Can you pull the drive shaft to the rear and make the truck full time Front wheel drive, or would there still be a bunch of electronics to deal with because the truck would be looking for rear diff feedback.
 
#27 ·
Actually if the driveshaft is removed the truck will behave like normal but fwd. Unfortunately the torque steer would be unbearable for me so I'm gonna keep it as is. When i punch it off the line all I get is a small chirp from the front on dry smooth pavement.

This thing is a rocket once the iVTEC switches cam profiles for the intake and exhaust. It pulls hard! Whoever said the j37 swap was a dog in the RL did something wrong!
 
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