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Hi... was liking the Hayman Reese Compact IQ; proportional sensor, clean look in switch panel. If you have 1 - 2 MONTHS you can get it from Amazon for $81 USD https://www.amazon.com/Reese-Towpower-8508700-Compact-Control or in a much shorter time from the eBay store as mentioned earlier in this thread.

But then I saw a video about the Redarc Tow-Pro Elite. The LED is part of the control so *only one hole to drill*. The bezel surrounding the control is 20mm so it will fit in a blank switch panel without going past the edges. Just like the proportional sensor in the Compact IQ model their sensor can also mount in any position. From the sensor to the control is via a Cat 5 data cable RJ45 at both ends so you can go shorter or longer as needed. I did a foam mockup of the sensor and control - appears to fit in the switch panel near the cargo lite switch on G2s. Redarc also has a location in the US - probably a shipping point - and you can order from their web site.

Hardest part sounds like finding the 4 pin connector under the dash and also finding a 12 year old to connect the harness. :)
 

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I had the dealer install a brake controller when I bought my Ridgeline. Wanted the Prodigy unit....as I had read good things about it. They made a permanent install just to the right of the steering column. At first I thought this may be an issue and I would be bumping my right let on the unit. Figured I would remove it and mount it with velcro when needed.

BUT NO.....it's never been an issue and I am more than happy with the location and lack of ever becoming a contact issue. Perfect! ......and the controller really works well to boot.
 

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Short version - installation of RedArc Tow-Pro Elite trailer brake controller
1. ordered Sept 3, tracking # given Sept 5, received Sept 12
2. fits in one empty switch panel
3. main unit mounts in any orientation but must be secured in place
4. 'clean' installation look afterwards
5. I was impressed with the product quality, wiring, and ease of installation

details will be in another post soon.
 

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Much longer version:
This is my journey to get the Ridgeline set up like my old Avalanche, so this post is about a trailer brake controller. I was all set to order the Compact IQ from Hayman Reese but saw the Tow-Pro Elite from RedArc, also an Australian company but with an outlet in North Carolina. So I ordered from the Australian web site and it shipped out of NC. The package was nicely protected and the shipping box was clearly labeled fragile.

RedArc also has a universal switch mount but it is made to clip at the front whereas the Ridgeline clips at the rear. My alternate location was going to be inside the center storage console - the RedArc mount would probably clip in that location.

Replacement Honda switch panels are about $1.60 so I ordered two. That way I could experiment with fitting the control and LED combo unit.

Mark your center line and drill a hole for the LED and for the rotary control - the trim ring will cover up any minor errors but remember switch panels are cheap so you can afford to make it as perfect as you want. You will also need to remove all the plastic on the back side of the switch panel but keep the upper & lower mounting clip sections in order to fit the RedArc control and LED combo.

The assembled switch panel with RedArc control and LED will fit in the dash but for removal you will need to remove the knob and locking nut to remove the control and then you will be able to compress the mounting clips.

The main unit has slotted mounting tabs to secure it in place. It's a larger unit than the Compact IQ and there's not a lot of room under the dash to fit anyone's extra equipment. I assume that a change in orientation of the unsecured unit will affect the calibration. I found a metal angle bracket below the switch panel so I used an 'industrial strength' Velcro to mount the unit to that - if the Velcro doesn't work out I may drill two holes in the metal bracket and use bolts/screws in the mounting slots to secure it.

My AWD RTL came with the factory pigtail - length 15". The RedArc pigtail is 20". You will need to connect both pigtails together to make one adaptor harness. My understanding of the diagrams is that 12V power is supplied from the blue Honda wire (labeled + Batt) so I connected that to the black RedArc wire (labeled 12+). Then black Honda (GND) to white RedArc (ground); brown/white Honda (brake elec) to blue RedArc (brake output), and finally sky blue Honda (SW stop) to red RedArc (brake light) - please review/verify your own connections. Connections were soldered, tested for continuity, and sealed with heat-shrink tubing. The wire gauge used on the RedArc pigtail seemed a bit larger and stiffer than on the Honda pigtail. Soldering is not one of my skills so I found the wire gauge differences a bit of a challenge to make a good mechanical connection prior to soldering - it would likely not be a challenge for anyone else though.

I was lucky in that my trailer brake control harness was near the OBD port, as mentioned by another member, and was not hidden high above nor was it wrapped in blue tape. The connection from the main unit to the control/LED is made with a supplied three foot data cable, 90 degree RJ45 at one end and straight RJ45 at the other end.

I'll borrow my inlaws tilt bed trailer and test operation of the unit next week. At this point I'm very happy - quick shipping, quality product, straight forward installation, and nothing hanging down to bump into or looking out of place in the factory interior. Thank you RCNet, Carsmak, ISO Truck, Calicajun21, McChizzle, and JeffFarmer for the excellent writeups and useful comments on installations of the Compact IQ, it encouraged me to take on this trailer brake controller project. Next post is pictures.
 

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Wow, great write ups and pictures from everyone! Need a brake controller as I'll be buying a camper soon...glad to see there are a few options out there!

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
 

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2009 Ridgeline RTL (with nav) in Bali Blue Pearl
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@Sawdust, I really like what you did with the Tow-Pro Elite. One of the blank switch covers on the lower-left side of the Gen1 (above the parking brake release) is a little taller and skinnier than the ones on the Gen2; so I'm curious if you think the Tow-Pro Elite switch will fit there. The space between the clips (if trimmed as you did) is about one-inch and the overall width of the face is also about one-inch. Is that enough space to fit the Tow-Pro Elite switch?

Also, please share a picture of where you mounted the main controller. I'm trying to think of places to put it on my Gen1.

IMG_20170923_104354779_BURST000_COVER_TOP.jpg
IMG_20170923_124132496.jpg
 

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Thank you! I think it would fit yours also. I had about 15/16 between my clips and about the same across the face of the switch cover. I laid my camera on the floor between the e-brake pedal and the brake pedal to show where my main controller is mounted behind the lower trim panel. Here's some measurements of the switch - from their install guide.
 

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While not nearly as clean as one of the completely concealed in-dash units, I think this works nicely for my 2017.

This is a Tekonsha Primus (not current model) I had from a previous vehicle. Installed with Velcro strips into the storage pocket ahead of the gearshifter. The seam in the panels provides a decent raceway for the wiring.

No holes and removes quickly for storage, although I imagine I'll leave it in place most of the time. When seated in the vehicle, you can't see the wiring hanging out.

Did anybody else notice how light the wire is on the Honda harness? Seems like the power and brake output wires are smaller than they ought to be. I have a single axle so I imagine the current will be low enough not to matter, but still.

Steve
 

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While not nearly as clean as one of the completely concealed in-dash units, I think this works nicely for my 2017.

This is a Tekonsha Primus (not current model) I had from a previous vehicle. Installed with Velcro strips into the storage pocket ahead of the gearshifter. The seam in the panels provides a decent raceway for the wiring.

No holes and removes quickly for storage, although I imagine I'll leave it in place most of the time. When seated in the vehicle, you can't see the wiring hanging out.

Did anybody else notice how light the wire is on the Honda harness? Seems like the power and brake output wires are smaller than they ought to be. I have a single axle so I imagine the current will be low enough not to matter, but still.

Steve
I installed my Prodigy P3 the same way you did, was a very neat and clean install. The wires tuck in the dash where the division is and is unseen from any position. I did have a hard time plugging the wiring harness into the factory wiring harness, I was just too big to lay down in the floor board where I could get both hands up under the dash. I did finally go to a Honda/Acura repair shop that I have used for service and the owner came out and he plugged it in in 30 seconds. Only other thing noticed was the unit would not turn off when the vehicle was off, got the instruction out and it said and controller like the key fab would keep it activated if it was in 12' of the unit, moved it away and it went off.

trainman
 

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This could work: https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Redarc/331-TPSI-001.html

I asked them for the dimensions and here is their response:

I went to the warehouse to measure the Universal Mounting Panel for Redarc Tow-Pro Elite Trailer Brake Controller Control Knob # 331-TPSI-001 and found the back was 1" x 1-1/2" and the widest point of the rear knob was 15/16"; this will work on dash panels that are a maximum of 9/32" thick and is for use with the Tow-Pro Elite Brake Controller # 331-EBRH-ACCV2.

Haven't measured the Honda hole--anyone?
 

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Hi SCragin, I have the Red Arc controller and also the mounting panel you mention. What do you mean by the "Honda hole" ? Happy to measure once I know what area, my install is earlier in this thread - but I didn't use the mounting panel.
 

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Much longer version:
This is my journey to get the Ridgeline set up like my old Avalanche, so this post is about a trailer brake controller. I was all set to order the Compact IQ from Hayman Reese but saw the Tow-Pro Elite from RedArc, also an Australian company but with an outlet in North Carolina. So I ordered from the Australian web site and it shipped out of NC. The package was nicely protected and the shipping box was clearly labeled fragile.

RedArc also has a universal switch mount but it is made to clip at the front whereas the Ridgeline clips at the rear. My alternate location was going to be inside the center storage console - the RedArc mount would probably clip in that location.

Replacement Honda switch panels are about $1.60 so I ordered two. That way I could experiment with fitting the control and LED combo unit.

Mark your center line and drill a hole for the LED and for the rotary control - the trim ring will cover up any minor errors but remember switch panels are cheap so you can afford to make it as perfect as you want. You will also need to remove all the plastic on the back side of the switch panel but keep the upper & lower mounting clip sections in order to fit the RedArc control and LED combo.

The assembled switch panel with RedArc control and LED will fit in the dash but for removal you will need to remove the knob and locking nut to remove the control and then you will be able to compress the mounting clips.

The main unit has slotted mounting tabs to secure it in place. It's a larger unit than the Compact IQ and there's not a lot of room under the dash to fit anyone's extra equipment. I assume that a change in orientation of the unsecured unit will affect the calibration. I found a metal angle bracket below the switch panel so I used an 'industrial strength' Velcro to mount the unit to that - if the Velcro doesn't work out I may drill two holes in the metal bracket and use bolts/screws in the mounting slots to secure it.

My AWD RTL came with the factory pigtail - length 15". The RedArc pigtail is 20". You will need to connect both pigtails together to make one adaptor harness. My understanding of the diagrams is that 12V power is supplied from the blue Honda wire (labeled + Batt) so I connected that to the black RedArc wire (labeled 12+). Then black Honda (GND) to white RedArc (ground); brown/white Honda (brake elec) to blue RedArc (brake output), and finally sky blue Honda (SW stop) to red RedArc (brake light) - please review/verify your own connections. Connections were soldered, tested for continuity, and sealed with heat-shrink tubing. The wire gauge used on the RedArc pigtail seemed a bit larger and stiffer than on the Honda pigtail. Soldering is not one of my skills so I found the wire gauge differences a bit of a challenge to make a good mechanical connection prior to soldering - it would likely not be a challenge for anyone else though.

I was lucky in that my trailer brake control harness was near the OBD port, as mentioned by another member, and was not hidden high above nor was it wrapped in blue tape. The connection from the main unit to the control/LED is made with a supplied three foot data cable, 90 degree RJ45 at one end and straight RJ45 at the other end.

I'll borrow my inlaws tilt bed trailer and test operation of the unit next week. At this point I'm very happy - quick shipping, quality product, straight forward installation, and nothing hanging down to bump into or looking out of place in the factory interior. Thank you RCNet, Carsmak, ISO Truck, Calicajun21, McChizzle, and JeffFarmer for the excellent writeups and useful comments on installations of the Compact IQ, it encouraged me to take on this trailer brake controller project. Next post is pictures.
I just finished installing the "Redarc Towpro elite". Can't thank you enough for the review and step-by-step. Went just as you said. Not one problem. Worked first time. Thanks again.


Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

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Just made deal on an 2019 this morning. Found this thread and like the clean installation you guys have done. Have an older contoller from my MDX that I was planning to use on the Ridgeline, mounted under dash as it was in Acura. Like clean look here better though. Also found this on etrailer site ... any comments or experience with this setup? Seems ideal for occassional towing like I plan to do.

https://www.etrailer.com/s.aspx?qry=Bluetooth+brake+controller+curt#/

Cheers, Mike
 

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2009 Ridgeline RTL (with nav) in Bali Blue Pearl
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Just made deal on an 2019 this morning. Found this thread and like the clean installation you guys have done. Have an older contoller from my MDX that I was planning to use on the Ridgeline, mounted udner dash as it was in Acura. Like clean look here better though. Also found this on etrailer site ... any comments or experience with this setup? Seems ideal for occassional towing like I plan to do.

https://www.etrailer.com/s.aspx?qry=Bluetooth+brake+controller+curt#/

Cheers, Mike
It looks exactly like what I had hoped someone would build one day. The only thing that would make me question getting a device like this is how well it would hold up to the weather and road grime.
 

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That’s true, but I guess a benefit might be it would be exposed only when actually being used ... rest of the time it would be stored. Does come with limited lifetime warrantee and small number of reviews are positive.
 

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HI... yep, that might work well also. For me, even though I don't tow that often, I do have several trailers available to use so that's why I went with a conventional electrical hookup. If you have just the one trailer or don't mind moving the equipment between different trailers why not go the Bluetooth route!
 
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