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2009 Ridgeline RTL (with nav) in Bali Blue Pearl
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I installed a Tekonsha P3 (took it out of my other tow vehicle) with the Tekonsha patch cable for the Ridgeline ordered off Amazon.

The install was simple and then I mounted the unit to the right of the steering column.

Will be using it to tow our new Airstream soon!
Pics please!
 

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2019 Ridgeline Touring
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100 Posts
I will post some pics of with the Airstream soon, we are going to pick it up sometime next week so we should have by next weekend.
 

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The Reese Towpower Compact IQ arrived today and I wasted no time dragging out the soldering iron and getting the OEM connector attached. Four wires, diagram included with the Compact IQ and with the OEM harness. Just match the pretty colors and you're good to go.

I used two switch blanks below the "ECON" button. I had to hog out the back of them to get things to fit, so they didn't snap back in with the same hold as they were before. Nothing a few drops of super glue can't fix.

As you can see, the labels are a little wider that the switch. As soon as the glue dries I'm going to take a razor blade and trim them. I boogered up one of the labels when I peeled it off the backing.

Very easy install. Took me longer to mount the controller itself than anything as I had to twist and contort 6'5" of me under the dash. I found a nice flat area up there and mounted it.

I don't have a trailer, so I can't test it, but when I push the manual brake control, it does light up the tail lights which means I have all the wires connected correctly. The insert with the OEM harness mentioned putting in a 20A fuse and even included the fuse, but my truck already had a fuse in the fuse box for "Trailer ebrake".

Here's the final product:

401831
 

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I've found the double sided sticky tape doesn't hold very well once the temps rise up under the dash there and the tape all comes off too easily. If you can put some wire ties on it too up there. Otherwise if yours is like mine you'll be pushing it back up with your foot every once in a while.

Steve
 

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I've found the double sided sticky tape doesn't hold very well once the temps rise up under the dash there and the tape all comes off too easily. If you can put some wire ties on it too up there. Otherwise if yours is like mine you'll be pushing it back up with your foot every once in a while.

Steve
Mine is glued and screwed. I trimmed the double sided sticky foam to fit around the included metal bracket. I stuck the controller in place to allow me to insert a screw into some rubber sound insulation to fasten one end. Then I zip tied the wiring harness to take weight off the other end.

I have a tendency to over do most jobs. I'm just a WEE bit anal retentive when it comes to my vehicles. LOL!
 

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2019 Ridgeline Touring
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We picked up our Airstream and I set the P3 controller to 7.0. I kept going up till I could feel the trailer brakes. Our other trailer was set at 2.0. I was quite surprised that the Airstream needed to be cranked up so high but this is only my second trailer so I guess that's correct.
 

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2019 RTL-E (white on beige) in central Texas
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We picked up our Airstream and I set the P3 controller to 7.0. I kept going up till I could feel the trailer brakes. Our other trailer was set at 2.0. I was quite surprised that the Airstream needed to be cranked up so high but this is only my second trailer so I guess that's correct.
It can vary a lot per the (electrical) resistance of the brake circuit in the trailer and the trailer brake's mechanical adjustment. What you're seeing with the Airstream could be perfectly 'normal' for that trailer, you might take a look to see if the clearance on the brakes is correct (especially if it's a 'pre-owned' trailer).

The trailer may or may not have an 'automatic' adjuster which accommodates brake-wear when brakes are applied when driving in reverse; even when they do I've found that manual tweaking of adjustment is sometimes necessary (like during the annual check-over of the trailer running gear).

Happy towing with the new-to-you rig! :)
 
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Wanted to share my Redarc install in a 2020 RTL-E in case anyone is considering this brake controller and looking for ideas on where to mount it. I'll also add that the Redarc is a really nice, quality system that, IMHO has the best looking and most easily integrated control setup out there.
I installed the Tow-Pro model and used Redarc's TPH-013 cable that is a direct plug-and-play from the Redarc to the Honda plug, just eliminating any wire splices, and in my mind, it makes for a little bit cleaner looking install (not that it's visible or important to many others).
The control unit is very securely zip-tied to the upper part of the brake pedal bracket, which is the perfect dimensions for the control unit, and doesn't interfere with any of the moving element of the brake.

As for the switch placement, if you decide to use this location, be careful how far to the right of the Econ button you go. Mine is at the limit of how far over it can be before you'll run into interference behind the trim panel when you try to reinstall it. I tried to space mine so the gap between the Econ button and the Redarc switch was the same as the gap to the mirror button cluster.
The install is very easy, although a little nerve wracking drilling a hole in the dash panel. But I'm very happy with the look and functionality where it is, and would do the same again if I had to.
Hope this helps someone with a future project.
Redarc Install RTL-E.jpg
 

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That control looks nice and clean! Great Job. You got me thinking about changing mine. I like my P3 and wish I could have hidden it like that one but the selectors and screen would need to be removable to enable a stealth install!
 

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That control looks nice and clean! Great Job. You got me thinking about changing mine. I like my P3 and wish I could have hidden it like that one but the selectors and screen would need to be removable to enable a stealth install!
From all the controllers I looked at, the Redarc is probably the most expensive (but not by that much in the big picture), but it really makes for an easy, almost factory install look. And my understanding from the reviews is that it is a very good controller as well. Their support (in Australia, but with USA phone number) is outstanding. Their USA distribution happens to be just down the road from me, but that is really just warehousing.
 

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2019 RTL-E (white on beige) in central Texas
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FWIW I used various generations of the Tekonsha / Prodigy controllers for decades in my previous tow-vehicles with great success and satisfaction, as did my Airstreaming parents. Unquestionably great TBC's IMO.

I decided to take a chance on the Redarc in my RL solely due to it's installation flexibility. I can say after about a year with the Redarc towing 2 different trailers (RV with consistent weight and a 17' utility which gets hugely varied loads on it) that the Redarc has been great. I've given-up nothing in terms of operating convenience or TBC performance, and the one time I had a 'support' question (submitted by email) they were very quick to thoroughly respond (a tech person writing from Australia).

Based on my experience I now don't hesitate for a moment to recommend the Redarc for those who don't mind the slightly higher price in return for it's installation flexibility.
 
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You also have to consider the intended use. A 5000lb max towing capacity means we’re not talking about 5-wheel size trailers. The controller I put in is rated for three axles. I’m pretty sure it’s overkill.
 

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2020 Black Edition
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Wanted to share my Redarc install in a 2020 RTL-E in case anyone is considering this brake controller and looking for ideas on where to mount it. I'll also add that the Redarc is a really nice, quality system that, IMHO has the best looking and most easily integrated control setup out there.
I installed the Tow-Pro model and used Redarc's TPH-013 cable that is a direct plug-and-play from the Redarc to the Honda plug, just eliminating any wire splices, and in my mind, it makes for a little bit cleaner looking install (not that it's visible or important to many others).
The control unit is very securely zip-tied to the upper part of the brake pedal bracket, which is the perfect dimensions for the control unit, and doesn't interfere with any of the moving element of the brake.

As for the switch placement, if you decide to use this location, be careful how far to the right of the Econ button you go. Mine is at the limit of how far over it can be before you'll run into interference behind the trim panel when you try to reinstall it. I tried to space mine so the gap between the Econ button and the Redarc switch was the same as the gap to the mirror button cluster.
The install is very easy, although a little nerve wracking drilling a hole in the dash panel. But I'm very happy with the look and functionality where it is, and would do the same again if I had to.
Hope this helps someone with a future project.
I will be copying your install and placement. But I'm considering installing the remote knob without the snap-in insert panel. From your experience, do you think that universal insert panel helps secure the remote knob? Or is it just aesthetic?
 

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I will be copying your install and placement. But I'm considering installing the remote knob without the snap-in insert panel. From your experience, do you think that universal insert panel helps secure the remote knob? Or is it just aesthetic?
After installing mine with the snap-in panel, I wondered if I should have just directly installed it...
To directly mount it you'll need to pretty precisely drill a hole for both the knob and the led, so just be aware of that.
I think that direct mount might be more secure than the press fit of the snap-in plate as the nut will secure it directly to the dash panel, as opposed to the nut securing it to the faceplate, which is then friction fit into the dash panel, but the snap-in plate gives a little fudge factor for covering the drilling.
I'd strongly recommend that you snap out that entire lower dash panel (no screws holding it) and remove the wired connections, and work on drilling the panel outside of the car - worth the extra 5-10 mins (if that) for the ease of working on it. And do not go to far to the right of the Econ button due to interference with the back of the knob/wire connection.
Worse case installing it directly, if you don't like it, you should be able to just re-drill for the much larger hole needed for the snap-in panel.
Good luck and let's us see the final result!
 

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2019 RTL-E (white on beige) in central Texas
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Worse case installing it directly, if you don't like it, you should be able to just re-drill for the much larger hole needed for the snap-in panel.
Enlarging a hole can be 'sporting' unless using a huge twist-drill, which isn't advised lest it grab the material and do more damage than good. Even centering a step-drill in an existing hole can be fraught with risk, and of course forget it with a forstner bit or a holesaw. Maybe with a conical grinding stone if the material is amenable, you take your time, and can live with the slightly tapered hole edges.

I'd suggest that before drilling your dash, you test the no-panel install on a scrap of material (metal or plastic) of similar thickness as the dash-panel. Get your experience / learn your lessons on other than your costly and difficult to remediate RL interior trim.

Just for your consideration, offered by an olde-skoole fabricator. Can't count the times I did a 'pre-test fabrication' on scrap material and then said "Whew, glad that wasn't on my final project !", then moving to yet another test-fab before moving the final project ;)
 
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RTL-E REDARC INSTALL, TAKE 3
(the RTL-E and BE having no 'blank' switch panels, unlike lower trims)

1. Initial install in the dash-cubby is described with pics in this post. Then I installed the accessory CD Player which means I lost the cubby space.

2. I never use the "ECON" button, so migrated the REDARC panel intact to that location (ECON button simply unscrewed from the dash and secured behind with a zip-tie). Functional, but not the 'look' I wanted:
402990


3. Rev 3, the "Keeper", aided by my 61years-young 'kid' brother 3-D printing a bezel, spacer, and retaining ring to my spec (PDF attached FYI); this one is the look I wanted (yes, there's a hole for the TBC status LED to light-up the clear ring of the knob just as it should):
402991

I've been nothing but happy with the REDARC controller functionality, now with this mounting I'm thrilled with the aesthetics. Obviously, the versatility these units provide for mounting is fantastic, gotta love it.

:)

(absolutely zero alteration of the dash, the ECON button can be restored to OE in minutes)
 

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Premium Member
2009 Ridgeline RTL (with nav) in Bali Blue Pearl
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RTL-E REDARC INSTALL, TAKE 3
(the RTL-E and BE having no 'blank' switch panels, unlike lower trims)

1. Initial install in the dash-cubby is described with pics in this post. Then I installed the accessory CD Player which means I lost the cubby space.

2. I never use the "ECON" button, so migrated the REDARC panel intact to that location (ECON button simply unscrewed from the dash and secured behind with a zip-tie). Functional, but not the 'look' I wanted:
View attachment 402990

3. Rev 3, the "Keeper", aided by my 61years-young 'kid' brother 3-D printing a bezel, spacer, and retaining ring to my spec (PDF attached FYI); this one is the look I wanted (yes, there's a hole for the TBC status LED to light-up the clear ring of the knob just as it should):
View attachment 402991
I've been nothing but happy with the REDARC controller functionality, now with this mounting I'm thrilled with the aesthetics. Obviously, the versatility these units provide for mounting is fantastic, gotta love it.

:)

(absolutely zero alteration of the dash, the ECON button can be restored to OE in minutes)
All I can say CentexG2 is wow, just wow! I really like what you have done. I am glad to hear about how good the REDARC is performing for you. I think I will "pull the trigger" on one myself for my Gen1.
 
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