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Discussion Starter #1
The 20A fuse that controls the brake light, horn, and Cruise keeps blowing on my 06 RTL. So far, I have:

-Cleaned the battery - it was very corroded.
-Removed and re-installed the brake light switch. Did not replace it, but not sure how to test/isolate just the switch.
-Disconnected my trailer light hookup from the rear tail-light assembly.

It still keeps blowing.

Happens about once a day with 20A. I installed a 15A once and it blew in minutes. I have a 30A in there now and it hasn't blown.

This started about 2 weeks ago. When it blows, I get no brake lights, no horn, no cruise, and I can't shift out of Park without jimmying the shifter release override on the top of the steering column. It usually happens while driving, but not while using Cruise or honking the horn and everytime the ABS and 2 other lights come on.

Ideas?
 

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Happens about once a day with 20A. I installed a 15A once and it blew in minutes. I have a 30A in there now and it hasn't blown.
Bad idea to continue with a 30 amp fuse. You could potentially cause more problems than you already have.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Bad idea to continue with a 30 amp fuse. You could potentially cause more problems than you already have.
Agreed, which is why I'm looking for a solution to keep the 20's from blowing.

Could the brake light switch on the pedal be causing the short, yet still more/less working ?

Are there causes we can eliminate? Seems like it shouldn't be a grounding issue since the 30s aren't blowing. Short must therefore be on the hot side of the brake lights, correct?
 

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well stop trying to honk the horn by hitting the brakes.... >:)


i was thinking ground issue, any trailer wiring left connected to anything?

also i'd try removing the tail lights and 3rd brake light and see what happens, maybe a bulb is shorted internally or in the socket.

if it's not that then it's got to be the switch
 

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any trailer wiring left connected to anything?
This was my first thought. If there are still connections of any type, that is where I would start looking. Aftermarket wiring has been the source of many problems on Ridgelines.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
This was my first thought. If there are still connections of any type, that is where I would start looking. Aftermarket wiring has been the source of many problems on Ridgelines.
Come to think of it, the trailer lights are connected to both left and right tail lights, aren't they?

I only disconnected one side, thinking that was all there was to get the brakes to activate, but for the turn signals, both sides would be required.
 

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Come to think of it, the trailer lights are connected to both left and right tail lights, aren't they?

I only disconnected one side, thinking that was all there was to get the brakes to activate, but for the turn signals, both sides would be required.
I have no idea how it is connected since I sprung for the Honda harness and had it installed by a dealer.
 

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Come to think of it, the trailer lights are connected to both left and right tail lights, aren't they?

I only disconnected one side, thinking that was all there was to get the brakes to activate, but for the turn signals, both sides would be required.
NO, that's an aftermarket kit, rip that out, 99% sure your issues will vanish. The Honda kit installs a relay/fuse and connects to existing wiring which is already in place under the truck, with an extension of about 18" of additional wiring, with 4pin & 7pin harnesses
 

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Come to think of it, the trailer lights are connected to both left and right tail lights, aren't they?

I only disconnected one side, thinking that was all there was to get the brakes to activate, but for the turn signals, both sides would be required.


The answer was there all the time!

Better late than never..... :smile:
 
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