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2012 Ridgie with 37,000 miles, just out of warranty

Noise from the right rear brake so I had the wheel pulled off. One pad is worn to a nubbin, but only the outer pad. Appears the inner pad may have been stuck and not actuating. 37,000 is not time to expect to need brake rebuild.

Any thoughts?
 

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Yup, I posted about this a while back . The rears on my 2012 went just shy of 30,000. The sliders had no grease on them from the factory.
Honda quality undermined by Alabama labor !
 

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Just had rear brakes replaced at dealership had brake inspection done.
Mileage was 139,000 a time of service with a 300 mile road trip this weekend.
Ridgeline has been 10,000 miles in past 6 months since October. The summer road trips have not started yet. Brake Inspection check for uneven wear operation of hardware & parking brake. Inspection Front Brakes @ 8.5mm
Rear Brakes @ 2.5mm they said the generally replace @ 2.0mm.
So it was my option to have it done then or later but probably would not make next service. It was already 2K over due for service by maint minder but everything is up to date by service record history. Replaced rear brake pads & resurfaced rotors.
 

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I don't know what's 'normal' for brake wear on the Ridgeline, but I just had the rears completely rebuilt (pads and rotors) at 70,000 km (about 44,000 miles).

Dealer said the rear rotors were beyond saving, pads completely gone. Fronts have been replaced once already - rotors under warranty, pads due to wear.

This is with mostly highway driving - I would say 75% highway, 25% city.
 

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2012 Ridgie with 37,000 miles, just out of warranty

Noise from the right rear brake so I had the wheel pulled off. One pad is worn to a nubbin, but only the outer pad. Appears the inner pad may have been stuck and not actuating. 37,000 is not time to expect to need brake rebuild.

Any thoughts?
IF you had your regular maintenance services performed by the dealer (I'm guessing maybe you didn't), you 'could' hit them up for new pads on the front due to the fact that they did not detect the uneven wear or lube the dry caliper pins during their routine/required inspections at those previous service intervals. Can't hurt to ask.
I'm especially suggesting this because that mileage is premature for your BACK brakes (which are the first to go on Ridgelines), but is absolutely ridiculous for the fronts. For some reason this vehicle has much faster wear on the rear pads than on the fronts. (opposite of most cars)
 

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2008 Ridgeline RTS in Billet Silver Metallic
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While 37k is pretty short brake pad life, your indication that one pad was worn and one not is indicative of a brake problem as mentioned above. I check my slider pins at nearly every tire rotation (which coincides with every oil change for me).

I've had pretty even wear and replaced the original rear pads with about 2.5mm remaining (service limit is 1.0mm) at 76,100 miles. The front pads were still healthy.

I don't tow, so that could also have an impact on brake pad life.

There have been a number of discussions as to why the rear pads on the RL wear out before the fronts. I think the consensus is that there is rear brake bias, ie, the rear brakes engage before the front brakes. Consequently, light braking may tend to wear the rear brakes faster than the fronts

Also, the front pads are meatier than the rear pads too... the fronts start at ~12mm and the rears at ~10mm.
 

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had the same prob 30,000, brakes and rotors front,dealer said its the new liquid ice melter stuff they use on hwy,bull**** gm,ford,toyota guys dont have this prob,i dont think these ridgelines are made of cheap parts,but cost a arm and leg to fix,
 

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I'm still on my original rotors at 145,000 miles both front and rear. I replaced the front pads a little over three years ago and the rears were replaced a little over two years ago. The pads were measured at my most recent inspection and the fronts were both at 9mm and the rears were at 8mm. I take apart my brakes and lube the pins about once every 12-18 months. I use Permatex caliper lube (the green stuff) and I've never had an issue. If the pins aren't being properly lubed at the factory, it's probably a really good idea to do this yourself. Those pins can never have too much lube. Check the little rubber things for pinholes or other leaks, as well. Those things are simple and easy to replace.
 

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I just bought a 1 owner 2010 today and it has 39K miles. Prior to taking ownership the dealer turned the rotors and replaced all pads stating they didn't like the way it pulled on a stop. This was done yesterday, before I test drove it today.
 

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I just bought a 1 owner 2010 today and it has 39K miles. Prior to taking ownership the dealer turned the rotors and replaced all pads stating they didn't like the way it pulled on a stop. This was done yesterday, before I test drove it today.
If it pulls to one side during a stop, I would think that would be attributed to a sticking caliper or unequal line pressure - not uneven rotors. Hopefully a dealership shop would be adept enough to properly diagnose that.
 
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