While I consider that excessive consumption, Honda will likely tell you that is normal. That is a quandary.
Burning Oil Already??
I am a little concerned about this oil level. Checked few times few minutes came out the same. Engine was at optimal temperature. vehicle on the level ground.
Is this normal at 4000 kms. Some one mentioned on a different thread to keep checking your oil level. I checked when I bought it three months ago it was just above the middle level now its almost at the end.
Is this normal at 4000 kms. Some one mentioned on a different thread to keep checking your oil level. I checked when I bought it three months ago it was just above the middle level now its almost at the end.
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Don't freak out just yet. My V6 Accord did the same thing on the factory fill and after that first change the dipstick readings were always at the top. I changed the oil early at about 4500 miles because the year was up. It was about halfway on the stick at the time. I do know that when I floor the Accord, I do see black smoke but others on the Accord forum have said the same. The VCM skeptics will say that the VCM has something to do with it; who knows.
If you want to go through the motions, the dealer could do an oil consumption test and probably tell you it's normal. I certainly wouldn't want them to open up a brand new engine.
At least you check your oil level. With the long oil change intervals in today's cars, running low (without checking) before the maintenance minder comes on is a concern. I would top it off and continue to monitor until you change the oil.
Hopefully this is all from the new engine break in additive (molybendum or something like that I believe) and it will go stop burning after the first oil change.
If you want to go through the motions, the dealer could do an oil consumption test and probably tell you it's normal. I certainly wouldn't want them to open up a brand new engine.
At least you check your oil level. With the long oil change intervals in today's cars, running low (without checking) before the maintenance minder comes on is a concern. I would top it off and continue to monitor until you change the oil.
Hopefully this is all from the new engine break in additive (molybendum or something like that I believe) and it will go stop burning after the first oil change.
If it were me (and it might end up happening to me too) I would start using a heavier weight oil now. When our Cadillac CTS with the 2.8 engine (which ran Mobil 1 5w-30 as recommended by GM) started using oil like that I switched it to 10w-30 and the oil consumption quit. There was NO detrimental effect with that engine (no knocks, no pings, no clanking, no reduced engine life, and most importantly - no mechanical issues (even with the chain as they were noted for issues) with using a different oil. There were a few of us on the forums who had done that and I was happy with the reduction in having to keep adding oil as it was using it quite heavily between changes (at least 2 - 3 quarts). Also, when I asked the dealer about it like mentioned here they just reply "that's normal for the year and car" . Which means to me they saw it regularly. As much as I believe the manufacturer knows what they are talking about for oil viscosity I don't believe they do it always in the best interests of the owners. And like the CTS if this one does the same thing using a lot of oil I'm switching it to a heavier base oil. There also has been some conversation in CR (Consumers Reports) about it as well.
The other thing that might be a good idea is to send the oil off for analysis to Blackstone and get a rundown of your current engine metals. I've done that for my Ford 1900 Diesel tractor when I switched it to heavy duty oil that I had purchased. And I did a clean analysis of the oil as well to determine additive packages that were in it. Both turned out to be a positive experience that I learned some things from. And Bob is the oil guy as a website is a great reference for oil discussions even if it gets heated in there sometimes.
Steve M
The other thing that might be a good idea is to send the oil off for analysis to Blackstone and get a rundown of your current engine metals. I've done that for my Ford 1900 Diesel tractor when I switched it to heavy duty oil that I had purchased. And I did a clean analysis of the oil as well to determine additive packages that were in it. Both turned out to be a positive experience that I learned some things from. And Bob is the oil guy as a website is a great reference for oil discussions even if it gets heated in there sometimes.
Steve M
When the truck was brand new with less than 100km on it, the oil was not at the full mark?I am a little concerned about this oil level…... I checked when I bought it three months ago it was just above the middle level now its almost at the end.
It is not unusual for a new motor to consume some oil. Check it more frequently than once every 3 months. Consumption should lessen over time and distance.
What was your break-in procedure?
I was questioning this as well.When the truck was brand new with less than 100km on it, the oil was not at the full mark?
I just checked ours yesterday afternoon after 1100 miles of commuting and it is at the full mark.
Maybe the dealer should have topped it up before delivery and then it would be so shocking to see it a little ways down the stick with some miles or kilometers on it.
Man I don't like to see this.
I also recommend running a heavier weight oil.
I also recommend running a heavier weight oil.
The op said it "was just above the middle level" when he first bought it. That is the "full" mark according to the manual. If people are filling it up to the top of the cleared area on the dipstick, that could be interesting. From the manual: NOTICE Do not fill the engine oil above the upper mark. Overfilling the engine oil can result in leaks and engine damage.
As I'm looking at his pic, it looks like he's just above the fill mark now. So, he's used a little oil........my guess is half a qt.
As I'm looking at his pic, it looks like he's just above the fill mark now. So, he's used a little oil........my guess is half a qt.
Àll driving is city never driven over 3000 rpm for first 2000 and very few hard accelerations after that just to get into the lane. Always in eco modeWhen the truck was brand new with less than 100km on it, the oil was not at the full mark?I am a little concerned about this oil level?... I checked when I bought it three months ago it was just above the middle level now its almost at the end.
It is not unusual for a new motor to consume some oil. Check it more frequently than once every 3 months. Consumption should lessen over time and distance.
What was your break-in procedure?
Added close to 7/8 quart today. I think it will be OK.
If it happens again I will be leaning towards buying 200000km/8 year warranty.
I will always be taking my own oil & Filter to the Dealership for my RL. Mobil 1 synthetic extended performance and Mobil one extended performance filter. It helped in my very hard driven 09 3.7 acura TL. If driven hard it used to drop half a quart after 4000 kms
Your dealer does oil changes using your oil and filter?!?I will always be taking my own oil & Filter to the Dealership for my RL. Mobil 1 synthetic extended performance and Mobil one extended performance filter. It helped in my very hard driven 09 3.7 acura TL. If driven hard it used to drop half a quart after 4000 kms
It is normal for a new engine to use some oil during break-in. It should taper off. Compare your next set of miles and see if it uses less.
Yes they charge $14 +tax. Its funny my 09 TL, my wife's 10 civic and 17RL uses the same filter Mobil 1 110
You may want to run that puppy like you stole it. Especially since you've got it broken in. Let them rings and valves seat in. The whole thing may turn to sludge:surprise: if you never get over 3000 rpms, especially with cms. It's a truck/tool not an infant.Àll driving is city never driven over 3000 rpm for first 2000 and very few hard accelerations after that just to get into the lane. Always in eco mode
Ridge17's comments may sound like slang but they are fact!
It is ill advised to baby a new vehicle like that. Don't be afraid to bring the revs up and drive it.
If the truck is babied, the rings will never fully conform to the cylinders and it will burn oil it's whole life. It will also build less compression and be slower. The xx% of ring contact will achieve full polish, ring expansion is halted, and xx% of the rings will NEVER reach the cylinder walls. In short, driving it hard raises the ring pressure and allows proper break in.
Do a google search, motoman break in. My S2000 with 3 miles on it was broken in the same way. At 150k miles the car is a rocket and uses no oil under normal driving. I also break in every S2000 engine I build the same way. And my new RL.
Test drive two vehicles, one babied and one broken in strong. You will CLEARLY notice the babied vehicle. Perhaps a Ridgeline meetup to compare trucks ��
It is ill advised to baby a new vehicle like that. Don't be afraid to bring the revs up and drive it.
If the truck is babied, the rings will never fully conform to the cylinders and it will burn oil it's whole life. It will also build less compression and be slower. The xx% of ring contact will achieve full polish, ring expansion is halted, and xx% of the rings will NEVER reach the cylinder walls. In short, driving it hard raises the ring pressure and allows proper break in.
Do a google search, motoman break in. My S2000 with 3 miles on it was broken in the same way. At 150k miles the car is a rocket and uses no oil under normal driving. I also break in every S2000 engine I build the same way. And my new RL.
Test drive two vehicles, one babied and one broken in strong. You will CLEARLY notice the babied vehicle. Perhaps a Ridgeline meetup to compare trucks ��
Well last 2 days were need for speed with my RL. Will reved it to 6k will continue for another few days
I found it hard to baby mine when I first got it - after many years in a 4-cylinder wagon, the RL's acceleration is hard to resist! It's not a sports car, but feels like one in comparison.Ridge17's comments may sound like slang but they are fact!
It is ill advised to baby a new vehicle like that. Don't be afraid to bring the revs up and drive it.
Tis true, I wasn't making a flippant, uneducated comment....although it may have come off that way. There have been many discussions about this, especially in the motorcycle, outboard motor forums. The end result of excessive idling and low rpm usage during break in is increased oil consumption and many times in the case of outboards, fuel contamination in the oil. The old rules don't always apply in this age of CAD/CAM.Ridge17's comments may sound like slang but they are fact!
It is ill advised to baby a new vehicle like that. Don't be afraid to bring the revs up and drive it.
If the truck is babied, the rings will never fully conform to the cylinders and it will burn oil it's whole life. It will also build less compression and be slower. The xx% of ring contact will achieve full polish, ring expansion is halted, and xx% of the rings will NEVER reach the cylinder walls. In short, driving it hard raises the ring pressure and allows proper break in.
Do a google search, motoman break in. My S2000 with 3 miles on it was broken in the same way. At 150k miles the car is a rocket and uses no oil under normal driving. I also break in every S2000 engine I build the same way. And my new RL.
Test drive two vehicles, one babied and one broken in strong. You will CLEARLY notice the babied vehicle. Perhaps a Ridgeline meetup to compare trucks ��
To the OP, please keep us posted on how this works out. :nerd:
If you don't want to "drive it like you stole it" then drive it like a rental. :grin:
This link seems like a credible source for break in procedure.
Running eco mode during break in seems like a bad idea. If we have cylinder deactivation it would just mean slower and uneven break in . I've owned several new vehicles cars and bikes. I've always done a mix of easy driving and medium driving up to 500 miles with periodic runs to redline between 500 to 1000 miles, and then giddy up after that.
Also, never changed from the recommended oil weights, and only converted to synthetic (if not from the factory) after 25k.
Never had problems, always got great mileage. Fwiw.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk
Also, never changed from the recommended oil weights, and only converted to synthetic (if not from the factory) after 25k.
Never had problems, always got great mileage. Fwiw.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk
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