[ChrisM]

To those of you who asked for a write up on this long ago, I aplogize. I finally got around to taking pics of my creation tonight. You will not have to do any drilling into your RL. You use the stock holes that are already there. Here is how you make it.

First you will need an electric actuator. This is the one I used.

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=330-010

The price is $4.25.

Now, you will have to go down to Lowes or Home Depot or maybe in your garage and get a set of 3" T brackets.

The price $2.97

You will need to then take one of the T brackets and take off the top leg. I used a pair of pliers and just bent the leg back and forth until it came off. If you want to get fancy, you can use a hacksaw. I didn't.

You then bolt the end that had the predrilled hole to the center hole of the other intact T bracket left in the package. I put 1 little nut in between the 2 bracket parts to make a swivel with enough room to clear the locking mechanism. I then used 2 additional nuts on the end of the bolt that are forced together so that they don't move on the bolt shaft. Here is a pic of the assembled locking mechanism. If you bolt this together correctly, it is EXTREMELY strong.

See the little oddball hole I drilled in the intact bracket on the bottom right side to the upside down T? You will have to drill this as well to line up with the stock hole in the tailgate. You then bolt it down and check for fitment. I didn't line up the holes in the picture very well but you will get the idea when you see it in person. The leg of the intact T bracket has to go under the tailgate locking mechanism as shown in the picture below. Disregard the metal rod in the picture. We havent gotten that far yet.

OK, now you will need brackets to install the lock actuator. I used the metal strip that came with the lock actuator. I used the bend back and forth method to bust it into 2 parts. I then mounted each end to the actuator first and then bent them under as shown in the picture. The screws were included with the actuator.

The trickiest part of the entire install was bending the actuator rod so that it would operate the locking mechanism. This also comes with the actuator. If you look at the last picture, the rod runs under the actuator. I can't really explain it as well as you can see in the picture.

(Continued in next post)

 

[ChrisM]

Page 2.

Here is a picture of the installed acutator. It all bolts into place using the same 2 holes that you mounted the lock mechanism to.

The wiring for the mechanism is the same as other companys use to power their tailgate locking mechanisms. This information can be found online. I'm sure someone will post a link.

You will notice, I only spent about $7.23 so far out of my $10. You can either spend that money on the wire that is needed to connect the mechanism to your stock locking system or you can spend it on what I did since I already had an 16 guage speaker wire left over from another project for my power wire. If you have this wire already, use the $2.77 left over to go to BW3's and buy a nice cold beer during happy hour. You worked hard and deserve it.

 

[0700]

i love it ... you must have grown up on a farm ... great imagination/turned practical solution ... or is it that the ridge just inspires folk too higher levels?
cheers

 

[ChrisM]

BTW, the yellow string is for an emergency release that can be accessed from the side of the tailgate in case the locking mechanism fails. I have never had to use it. I also have an extra picture I would like to throw in, it shows the 2 nuts locked together on the back side of the locking mechanism.

 

[RidgeDOC]

Ok its official you are the do it yourself Master. Just one question...Why? I mean unless you have a hard top or something is it really necessary to lock the tail gate?
Still props dude that is awesome if it works.
Just one thing that I wont be likely to copy from you lol

 

[sxewhodey]

Man that looks like a knuckle buster. I was thinking your hands would be bloody messes but I counted all your fingers. Very ingenious!

 

[ChrisM]

This project is not that hard. On a scale of 1 to 10, I would give this project a 4. It looks like it's hard but it's not. The reason that I made this was because this project made my bed secure along with my DIY tonneau cover. Now, I can lock stuff in the bed of my truck without worries. You could break into the bed of my truck like any other one out there with a tonneau cover but it will keep the more honest theives out if there is such a thing.

 

[bongus]

Chris, does this lock function similarly to the other locks? I.E. does it jam the lock? TIA for your reply.

 

[ChrisM]

Chris, does this lock function similarly to the other locks? I.E. does it jam the lock? TIA for your reply.

Yes it jams the lock only allowing about 1/3" of travel on the tailgate mechanism.When you pull up, there is almost no movement of the handle. My mechanism will not bend like others I have heard about.

 

[tscdc]

Page 2.

Here is a picture of the installed acutator. It all bolts into place using the same 2 holes that you mounted the lock mechanism to.

The wiring for the mechanism is the same as other companys use to power their tailgate locking mechanisms. This information can be found online. I'm sure someone will post a link.

You will notice, I only spent about $7.23 so far out of my $10. You can either spend that money on the wire that is needed to connect the mechanism to your stock locking system or you can spend it on what I did since I already had an 16 guage speaker wire left over from another project for my power wire. If you have this wire already, use the $2.77 left over to go to BW3's and buy a nice cold beer during happy hour. You worked hard and deserve it.

ChrisM,
I guess I'm lazy or too tired to find it but do you have details on how to connect the wiring on your impressive DIY tailgate lock?
I'm not very mechanically inclined and especially not when it comes to electrical wiring. Do the wires attach to a harness running alongside the bed into the doors/ under the rocker panel?, where?(drivers side??)
Also, does this jam both opening directions of the tailgate? ie down and out? I guess it would have to for you to say your cargo is now secure w/ your tonneau cover.
Details needed for the technically challenged

 

[tscdc]

Page 2.

Here is a picture of the installed acutator. It all bolts into place using the same 2 holes that you mounted the lock mechanism to.

The wiring for the mechanism is the same as other companys use to power their tailgate locking mechanisms. This information can be found online. I'm sure someone will post a link.

You will notice, I only spent about $7.23 so far out of my $10. You can either spend that money on the wire that is needed to connect the mechanism to your stock locking system or you can spend it on what I did since I already had an 16 guage speaker wire left over from another project for my power wire. If you have this wire already, use the $2.77 left over to go to BW3's and buy a nice cold beer during happy hour. You worked hard and deserve it.

ChrisM,
I guess I'm lazy or too tired to find it but do you have details on how to connect the wiring on your impressive DIY tailgate lock?
I'm not very mechanically inclined and especially not when it comes to electrical wiring. Do the wires attach to a harness running alongside the bed into the doors/ under the rocker panel?, where?(drivers side??)
Also, does this jam both opening directions of the tailgate? ie down and out? I guess it would have to for you to say your cargo is now secure w/ your tonneau cover.
Details needed for the technically challenged!
Thanks,
tscdc

 

[ChrisM]

ChrisM,
I guess I'm lazy or too tired to find it but do you have details on how to connect the wiring on your impressive DIY tailgate lock?
I'm not very mechanically inclined and especially not when it comes to electrical wiring. Do the wires attach to a harness running alongside the bed into the doors/ under the rocker panel?, where?(drivers side??)
Also, does this jam both opening directions of the tailgate? ie down and out? I guess it would have to for you to say your cargo is now secure w/ your tonneau cover.
Details needed for the technically challenged!
Thanks,
tscdc

The tailgate lock is wired into the door locking system. There used to be a PDF online of how to connect the wiring. That company has since gone out of business. The wires connect at the base of the B pillar inside the truck.

My tailgate lock locks the tailgate from being opened with either handle. You are correct in saying that my cargo is secure.

I'll see if I can find some info of how to connect the wire for you. No promises though.

 

[bongus]

The tailgate lock is wired into the door locking system. There used to be a PDF online of how to connect the wiring. That company has since gone out of business. The wires connect at the base of the B pillar inside the truck.

My tailgate lock locks the tailgate from being opened with either handle. You are correct in saying that my cargo is secure.

I'll see if I can find some info of how to connect the wire for you. No promises though.

I saw the instructions on the wiring. Check out this link. Enjoy.

 

[tscdc]

I saw the instructions on the wiring. Check out this link. Enjoy.

Thanks guys,
This info is right on and I think I'll order the actuator and dive into this install...
Wish me luck,
tscdc

 

[tscdc]

ChrisM,
Two questions...
What guage speaker wire did you use for this install?
The wires on the actuator look like 16 or 18 guage.
Also, where did you route the yellow emergency release string. Is it easily accessible for one who knows where to look? Thinking of security as well as convenience for me should I ever need to open it manually.
Thanks,
tscdc

 

[ChrisM]

I believe I used either 14 or 16 gauge speaker wire for the wiring harness.

The release string is taped to the drivers side edge of the bed. The string has a big loop like a lasso in it taped wide open. You can easily grab it with a coat hanger with a hook bent into the end. I ran the string pretty much through entire tailgate in a straight line and draped the loop down from the end of the string that comes out the side. It takes very little effort to pull the string enough to unlock the tailgate.

PS. I think you are the first one to do this mod besides me. I'm surprised no one else has mentioned doing it. It works perfectly after all this time. I haven't even had to adjust it as of yet. Just like Ron Popeil said, "Just set it and forget it."

 

[tscdc]

Thanks ChrisM,
I'm surprised as well if this is as simple as you've indicated. I have to buy the speaker wire as well which at Radio Shack is about $8 for 30 ft- the shortest length I can find. I have gotten the hardware and the actuator which was 8 and change so the total for me was about $20. Still not bad for what everyone else charges 70+. What did you use to bend the actuator rod? Is the metal hard to bend to the right angle? You said that was the most tricky part. Glad to hear it is working well for you. I'm anxious to get this mod done cause this spring we're doing a family camp out and it'll be good to know our gear is safely stored in the back of the ridge. I've got a Bakflip that I'm well pleased with and being able to lock the tailgate will make this package complete.
Thanks again and ROC on

 

[Raplon]

After almost a year of waiting for somebody to come up with the tailgate lock with disconnect, I finally realized it, most likely won't happen. I guess the mechanism of the lock is too complicated for that. Anyway, I still wanted to have a tailgate lock, preferably electric. As far as I know, after death of Basic Koncepts there are only 2 choices left: Dynolock and ChrisM's DIY lock described in this thread. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to gather enough information about Dynolock to be totally confident in its construction, while Chris provided detailed explanations with pictures, containing enough information to feel confident. Plus, you can't argue with the price advantage. So, I decided to go ahead with Chris's lock. I am very pleased with the results and don't understand why more people don't go the same route. In order to make it a bit more understandable, I took some more pictures to supplement the ones above. I tried to emulate Chris's device as close as I could, but, possibly, due to some misunderstanding of his description and/or pictures, there may be some differences. The first 3 pictures show just the lock mechanism without the actuator installed. First picture shows it in unlock position; Second in locked. Third is in locked position while I am pulling on the tailgate handle to demonstrate how it works. The last two are the final assembly in locked and than unlocked positions.

 

[ChrisM]

I am very pleased with the results and don't understand why more people don't go the same route. In order to make it a bit more understandable, I took some more pictures to supplement the ones above. I tried to emulate Chris's device as close as I could, but, possibly, due to some misunderstanding of his description and/or pictures, there may be some differences.

Wow! I didn't see this post. Great Job!!

It looks like you pretty much nailed what I did. I bent my actuator rod kind of funky as compared to yours but it is all essentially the same.

Mine still works flawlessly after a year of use and has never failed me even one time.

PS. I don't think that anyone else has tried this except for you. I've had a few folks approach me about making this but I've never seen any pictures.

 

[Raplon]

I am very happy with it, so far. I wanted to apply some lithium grease, just in case, but of course only remembered about it when I closed the tailgate completely. Don't think it is really necessary though. Chris, I saw you mentioned in one of the posts, you know how to open the tailgate in case of emergency. Is this something you able/allowed to share?