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By Popular Demand, the $10 Electric Tailgate Lock

127731 Views 171 Replies 73 Participants Last post by  zannej
3
To those of you who asked for a write up on this long ago, I aplogize. I finally got around to taking pics of my creation tonight. You will not have to do any drilling into your RL. You use the stock holes that are already there. Here is how you make it.

First you will need an electric actuator. This is the one I used.

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=330-010

The price is $4.25.

Now, you will have to go down to Lowes or Home Depot or maybe in your garage and get a set of 3" T brackets.

The price $2.97

You will need to then take one of the T brackets and take off the top leg. I used a pair of pliers and just bent the leg back and forth until it came off. If you want to get fancy, you can use a hacksaw. I didn't.

You then bolt the end that had the predrilled hole to the center hole of the other intact T bracket left in the package. I put 1 little nut in between the 2 bracket parts to make a swivel with enough room to clear the locking mechanism. I then used 2 additional nuts on the end of the bolt that are forced together so that they don't move on the bolt shaft. Here is a pic of the assembled locking mechanism. If you bolt this together correctly, it is EXTREMELY strong.



See the little oddball hole I drilled in the intact bracket on the bottom right side to the upside down T? You will have to drill this as well to line up with the stock hole in the tailgate. You then bolt it down and check for fitment. I didn't line up the holes in the picture very well but you will get the idea when you see it in person. The leg of the intact T bracket has to go under the tailgate locking mechanism as shown in the picture below. Disregard the metal rod in the picture. We havent gotten that far yet.



OK, now you will need brackets to install the lock actuator. I used the metal strip that came with the lock actuator. I used the bend back and forth method to bust it into 2 parts. I then mounted each end to the actuator first and then bent them under as shown in the picture. The screws were included with the actuator.



The trickiest part of the entire install was bending the actuator rod so that it would operate the locking mechanism. This also comes with the actuator. If you look at the last picture, the rod runs under the actuator. I can't really explain it as well as you can see in the picture.

(Continued in next post)
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ChrisM said:
Page 2.

Here is a picture of the installed acutator. It all bolts into place using the same 2 holes that you mounted the lock mechanism to.



The wiring for the mechanism is the same as other companys use to power their tailgate locking mechanisms. This information can be found online. I'm sure someone will post a link.

You will notice, I only spent about $7.23 so far out of my $10. You can either spend that money on the wire that is needed to connect the mechanism to your stock locking system or you can spend it on what I did since I already had an 16 guage speaker wire left over from another project for my power wire. If you have this wire already, use the $2.77 left over to go to BW3's and buy a nice cold beer during happy hour. You worked hard and deserve it.
ChrisM,
I guess I'm lazy or too tired to find it but do you have details on how to connect the wiring on your impressive DIY tailgate lock?
I'm not very mechanically inclined and especially not when it comes to electrical wiring. Do the wires attach to a harness running alongside the bed into the doors/ under the rocker panel?, where?(drivers side??)
Also, does this jam both opening directions of the tailgate? ie down and out? I guess it would have to for you to say your cargo is now secure w/ your tonneau cover.
Details needed for the technically challenged
ChrisM said:
Page 2.

Here is a picture of the installed acutator. It all bolts into place using the same 2 holes that you mounted the lock mechanism to.



The wiring for the mechanism is the same as other companys use to power their tailgate locking mechanisms. This information can be found online. I'm sure someone will post a link.

You will notice, I only spent about $7.23 so far out of my $10. You can either spend that money on the wire that is needed to connect the mechanism to your stock locking system or you can spend it on what I did since I already had an 16 guage speaker wire left over from another project for my power wire. If you have this wire already, use the $2.77 left over to go to BW3's and buy a nice cold beer during happy hour. You worked hard and deserve it.
ChrisM,
I guess I'm lazy or too tired to find it but do you have details on how to connect the wiring on your impressive DIY tailgate lock?
I'm not very mechanically inclined and especially not when it comes to electrical wiring. Do the wires attach to a harness running alongside the bed into the doors/ under the rocker panel?, where?(drivers side??)
Also, does this jam both opening directions of the tailgate? ie down and out? I guess it would have to for you to say your cargo is now secure w/ your tonneau cover.
Details needed for the technically challenged!
Thanks,
tscdc
bongus said:
I saw the instructions on the wiring. Check out this link. Enjoy. :cool:
Thanks guys,
This info is right on and I think I'll order the actuator and dive into this install...
Wish me luck,
tscdc
ChrisM,
Two questions...
What guage speaker wire did you use for this install?
The wires on the actuator look like 16 or 18 guage.
Also, where did you route the yellow emergency release string. Is it easily accessible for one who knows where to look? Thinking of security as well as convenience for me should I ever need to open it manually.
Thanks,
tscdc
Thanks ChrisM,
I'm surprised as well if this is as simple as you've indicated. I have to buy the speaker wire as well which at Radio Shack is about $8 for 30 ft- the shortest length I can find. I have gotten the hardware and the actuator which was 8 and change so the total for me was about $20. Still not bad for what everyone else charges 70+. What did you use to bend the actuator rod? Is the metal hard to bend to the right angle? You said that was the most tricky part. Glad to hear it is working well for you. I'm anxious to get this mod done cause this spring we're doing a family camp out and it'll be good to know our gear is safely stored in the back of the ridge. I've got a Bakflip that I'm well pleased with and being able to lock the tailgate will make this package complete.
Thanks again and ROC on
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