By Popular Demand, the $10 Electric Tailgate Lock

127738 Views 171 Replies 73 Participants Last post by zannej, Nov 19, 2018

ChrisM

Discussion Starter · Sep 21, 2006 (Edited)

3

To those of you who asked for a write up on this long ago, I aplogize. I finally got around to taking pics of my creation tonight. You will not have to do any drilling into your RL. You use the stock holes that are already there. Here is how you make it.

First you will need an electric actuator. This is the one I used.

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=330-010

The price is $4.25.

Now, you will have to go down to Lowes or Home Depot or maybe in your garage and get a set of 3" T brackets.

The price $2.97

You will need to then take one of the T brackets and take off the top leg. I used a pair of pliers and just bent the leg back and forth until it came off. If you want to get fancy, you can use a hacksaw. I didn't.

You then bolt the end that had the predrilled hole to the center hole of the other intact T bracket left in the package. I put 1 little nut in between the 2 bracket parts to make a swivel with enough room to clear the locking mechanism. I then used 2 additional nuts on the end of the bolt that are forced together so that they don't move on the bolt shaft. Here is a pic of the assembled locking mechanism. If you bolt this together correctly, it is EXTREMELY strong.

See the little oddball hole I drilled in the intact bracket on the bottom right side to the upside down T? You will have to drill this as well to line up with the stock hole in the tailgate. You then bolt it down and check for fitment. I didn't line up the holes in the picture very well but you will get the idea when you see it in person. The leg of the intact T bracket has to go under the tailgate locking mechanism as shown in the picture below. Disregard the metal rod in the picture. We havent gotten that far yet.

OK, now you will need brackets to install the lock actuator. I used the metal strip that came with the lock actuator. I used the bend back and forth method to bust it into 2 parts. I then mounted each end to the actuator first and then bent them under as shown in the picture. The screws were included with the actuator.

The trickiest part of the entire install was bending the actuator rod so that it would operate the locking mechanism. This also comes with the actuator. If you look at the last picture, the rod runs under the actuator. I can't really explain it as well as you can see in the picture.

(Continued in next post)

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Rick Walker

· #21 · Nov 19, 2007 (Edited)

5

After pricing electric tailgate locks, I decided to give the DIY lock a go. I did basically the same thing as ChrisM and Raplon.
I cut the T-Bracket a bit differently to avoid interference with the stock latch and I used a nylon washer between the two T-Brackets rather than a nut, but other than that mine is very much the same design.
I went all out and spared no expense making use of a hacksaw, a large vise, and a handheld grinder for the finishing touches.

The T-Bracket parts...

Plaid Pattern Tartan Design Textile

T-Brackets parts assembled...

Tartan Pattern Plaid Green Textile

Backside of the assembly...

Design Pattern Textile Button Linens

With the linkage wire...

Tartan Plaid Pattern Green Textile

Bolted into the tailgate...

Font Auto part Photography Technology Space

It seems to work well so far. I have to admit that I've had the tailgate disassembled quite a number of times in order to make "fine" adjustments. I'm getting pretty good at removing the cap and inner composite piece by now.

I did add the emergency release string, just in case.
Big thanks to ChrisM for his inspiration!!!

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ChrisM

Discussion Starter · #22 · Nov 20, 2007

Looks Great!

How long did it take you to complete the project?

Rick Walker

· #23 · Nov 20, 2007

It probably took about 1.5 hours initially (I'm a little slow

). But then I kept going back taking it apart and fiddling with it and reassembling it.
I think I'll try to leave it alone now and just enjoy it!

Beaullieu

· #24 · Nov 20, 2007 (Edited)

WOW, this mod looks to be one of the best yet and the pics everyone has provided are terrific. I'm planning to update my RL as well and a couple of questions popped into my head that I'm hoping one (or more) of you can share your thoughts....

1. Where did you tie in to the electrical to power the new lock actuator? (I was considering tieing into the circuit that locks/unlocks the trunk but sure would like your advise.... A pic if you have one...)
2. How did you route the new actuator wire out of the tailgate to tie into existing lock circuit? (A pic would be great if available).
3. Regarding the "emergency string release", where did you route it so that it can be used if necessary?

Thanks much....

Rick Walker

· #25 · Nov 20, 2007

Beaullieu said:
1. Where did you tie in to the electrical to power the new lock actuator? (I was considering tieing into the circuit that locks/unlocks the trunk but sure would like your advise.... A pic if you have one...)
2. How did you route the new actuator wire out of the tailgate to tie into existing lock circuit? (A pic would be great if available).
3. Regarding the "emergency string release", where did you route it so that it can be used if necessary?....

Look in the post that Bongus made above, #13 I think. There's a link to instructions that describes how to do the wiring. The wiring ties into the lock/unlock circuit for the rear doors. The connection is made inside the driver side pillar between the front and back doors. The wiring gets routed out of the tailgate at the driver side of the tailgate right at the hinge. There are pics in the instructions, but you'll need to look really closely cause they're pretty small.

I pulled my emergency string release across on the inside of the top of the tailgate and then down to the hinge inside the composite skin. I just pulled it across where the hinge is and stuffed it down into the little opening that you see to the left of the hinge behind the bumper. I used a bright pink nylon string that I can easily see stretched across the tailgate gap on the driver side. I can easily get hold and yank it out with a bent piece of wire (I.E. coat hanger).

greyridge

· #26 · Jan 12, 2008

Just wanted to let you know another ridgeliner is joing the ranks of following you diy tailgate lock mod. I like the ingenutiy and the price. Ordered the actuator, extra 12V power outlet (cigarette lighter) and a rearview camera as it had the featues I want (reversible image, low price, wide angle, CCD) and will be installing all at the same time. Why bother tearing up the truck multiple times.

This link http://site.dynolock.com/installation/honda/ridgelineinstuctions.htm to wiring it up rounds out the instructions nicely.

Being a self-rated 7 on a scale of 1 to 10 of coming up with and fabricating solutions, I'd agree this does not look overly difficult.

Others have posted their results - unless someone asks I probably won't.

If anyone is interested in the camera look here.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...STRK:MEWN:IT&viewitem=&item=280184879952&rd=1

Thanks for the elegant solution.

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Papabear

· #27 · Apr 14, 2008

OK, another guy just did the tailgate lock mod. I did it a little different really same idea, just mounter the actuator on the tailgate with two self tapping screws and was able to route the rod directly to the lock lever without tucking it underneath. It was just I was fumbling around trying to get everything to line up so finally did it this way... much simpler. I did take any picts but if I open it up again for any reason I will. My total cost... $12. Works great, I love it

r-squared

· #28 · Apr 14, 2008

I have all the parts necessary (minus the RL I am signing for this evening).

What size self-taping screws did you use?

A pic would be great, if you have it open again.

ChrisM

Discussion Starter · #29 · Apr 15, 2008

I am glad that folks are benefiting from this easy modification. It's quick, it's cheap, and it's easy but beware, this modification has been known to cause cancer in labratory rats!

xridgelinex

· #30 · Apr 15, 2008

ChrisM said:
The tailgate lock is wired into the door locking system. There used to be a PDF online of how to connect the wiring. That company has since gone out of business. The wires connect at the base of the B pillar inside the truck.

My tailgate lock locks the tailgate from being opened with either handle. You are correct in saying that my cargo is secure.

I'll see if I can find some info of how to connect the wire for you. No promises though.

tscdc said:
ChrisM,
I guess I'm lazy or too tired to find it but do you have details on how to connect the wiring on your impressive DIY tailgate lock?
I'm not very mechanically inclined and especially not when it comes to electrical wiring. Do the wires attach to a harness running alongside the bed into the doors/ under the rocker panel?, where?(drivers side??)
Also, does this jam both opening directions of the tailgate? ie down and out? I guess it would have to for you to say your cargo is now secure w/ your tonneau cover.
Details needed for the technically challenged!
Thanks,
tscdc

I think you were looking for this? http://basickoncepts.com/pdf/Ridgeline Tailgate Lock Instruction.pdf ...

...

If the wiring component wasn't so crazy, I would be more then confident to do this mod....

r-squared

· #31 · Apr 24, 2008

ChrisM, thank you as I have completed my tailgate lock today as per your writeup.

supersnout

· #32 · Jun 30, 2008

Going to bump this thread due to its ingenuity, and the fact that I will try and attempt this myself by this weekend. Don't want to lose this amongst the other threads.

Awesome job MacGyver. Err...ChrisM

ChrisM

Discussion Starter · #33 · Jul 2, 2008

supersnout said:
Going to bump this thread due to its ingenuity, and the fact that I will try and attempt this myself by this weekend. Don't want to lose this amongst the other threads.

Awesome job MacGyver. Err...ChrisM

You are quite welcome and THANK YOU for the tip on the bed extender!

Got mine today and installed it tonight. It's just what I was looking for and the price was PERFECT!

Olazy1

· #34 · Jul 21, 2008

Its been two weeks since I completed the install. Tailgate lock still works perfectly.

I have a tonneau cover with a clip that locks to the tailgate but it sometimes takes a couple tries to get the clip to engage so Im always double, triple checking to make sure its locked. For a few bucks it well worth it to have the extra security.

Thanks ChrisM!

luckyboy

· #35 · Aug 23, 2008

I'm a new owner and I'm very interested in this lock. The simplicity is absolutely brilliant!

I may have missed this or just don't know enough about the truck,yet...

Why did everyone go to the side door wiring instead of the trunk well wiring?

Thanks in advance for the wisdom and clarity.

r-squared

· #36 · Aug 23, 2008

The trunk doesnt use the actuator-style wiring you'll need. I went barking up that tree as well...no dice.

luckyboy

· #37 · Aug 23, 2008

Do you know what property of the wiring doesn't work with the actuator?

r-squared

· #38 · Aug 23, 2008

Hmmm, someone could probably answer this better than I, but I will try.
The trunk works by having a switch that when depressed will open the trunk. But the logic of the switch can be cut off in the glove box for valet reasons. So the switch in the trunk only works when the unlock is HOT. As opposed to working like a locked-when-locked and unlocked-when-unlocked. As a result, you're not going to find the 2 actuator wires that power the lock. Just a single one that has both the logic of "worked when unlocked and when the glove box says so". Make sense? It barely makes sense to me and I wrote it....so other member feel free to chime in more clearly.

On another note, I found the wiring process taping into the rear door lock was not bad. Fishing the wires up from under the cab into the pillar was the most frustrating part.

luckyboy

· #39 · Aug 24, 2008

Great explanation, thanks.

Don't mean to keep beating a dead horse, but, wouldn't the valet option be good for the tailgate? Or is it more complicated than that?

ChrisM

Discussion Starter · #40 · Aug 24, 2008

luckyboy said:
Great explanation, thanks.

Don't mean to keep beating a dead horse, but, wouldn't the valet option be good for the tailgate? Or is it more complicated than that?

I found out the other day that the trunk lock "locks" automatically when the battery is disconnected on the RL. This leads me to believe that the trunk lock works in a different fashion than the rest of the doors. My hypothesis is that the at rest position of the trunk lock is in the locked position. Furthermore I believe that it will only stay unlocked when there is some sort of current passing thru the circuit.

I could be wrong about this though.

Maybe HondaTech can pay this thread a visit and throw his 2 cents in about using the trunk lock as the actuator circuit. I never tried it when I designed the setup. There is a degree of plagerism in the design and I had the back seat out anyways when I did the install.

Thats my story and I'm stickin' to it.

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