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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all. New to the forums, looking forward to some Ridgeline discussion in the future. But first, looking for some guidance.

Bought a 2006 RT, fixer-upper, and boy am I fixing it upper. Done a bunch that it's needed already to get on the road, but having an issue that I'm struggling with. I know the short answer is "change the ignition switch" but I'd like to narrow this down before I get into that, considering I have to get it reprogrammed if so.

Truck starts and runs fine. About two times out of ten after starting and running it, the shifter moves, works fine, put it back in Park, shut it off, it goes all the way off and the key comes out. But the other eight times out of ten, the shifter won't move, and after shutting it off, the key will not go to the final OFF position and can't be removed.

100% of the time, if I unhook the battery, I can turn the switch the last tick, and pull the key out. Every time.

100% of the time, I can use the manual override on the shifter, and move it manually.

I have no warning lights on the dash, no DTCs. Fuses have all been checked, backup lights and brake lights are working.

I've taken the column apart to look around it, nothing appears to be obviously wrong, nothing bent, no wires melted, nothing obvious.

This all does seem to really point to the ignition switch. BUT, I will say I also noticed the PRNDL display is very intermittent and weird, usually the only ones that light up are R or N, and even wiggling the shifter a bit as I go through the motions can make those blink. Occasionally I see P as well. So this makes me think the Range Sensor might be an issue, or the wiring to it, possibly? Am I on the right track with these here?

I've attached a short vid. Thanks.

 

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It may be the shift interlock solenoid. When the vehicle is in park and running, do you hear a click noise when you press on the brake pedal? If not, this may be your issue. When the brake pedal is pressed, this is what allows the switch to work that you are pressing manually to get the shifter out of park. Outside the ignition switch itself, the only other part that comes to mind is the neutral safety switch, but your able to start the vehicle in park.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Oh good, I thought I was going crazy, most of my experience with stuff like this is with GM (S-10s are notorious for it)... So where IS the solenoid? You're right that I don't hear the click when I press the brake pedal.
 

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Resting your hand on the shift lever, you should be able to feel the solenoid release (click) through the shifter, when operating the brake pedal.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Oh, it's that white plastic deal with the spring-loaded plunger. Exxxxxxcellent. Guess I need to look into that first.
 

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Oh, it's that white plastic deal with the spring-loaded plunger. Exxxxxxcellent. Guess I need to look into that first.
I just did a quick search. Check the fuse 1st:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yup. I went through every fuse first just in case.

I hope this part can be bought separate. :/

I'm gonna try and find it in Mitchell or Alldata first, see if I can test it for continuity.
 

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Yup. I went through every fuse first just in case.

I hope this part can be bought separate. :/

I'm gonna try and find it in Mitchell or Alldata first, see if I can test it for continuity.
Here is another part to consider or check :
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yup, but like I said, I have working brake lights, so that switch should be working.

Thanks for the help!
 

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Yup, but like I said, I have working brake lights, so that switch should be working.

Thanks for the help!
Got it. Just keep in mind that you should be hearing a slight clicking at the brake pedal.
The one thing I’m not sure of is can the brake lights still work and switch portion of the interlock solenoid not activate ?
 

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Also check your neutral safety switch, I have ordered this for mine since I've had a few times where it wouldn't start or the reverse column light wouldn't always come on. Only cost about $60.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Changed the brakelight switch just in case, since it was only $10. No change. Double-checked every fuse that Mitchell says is in the circuit.

The Shift Lock Solenoid is only about $30, so I think I'll toss it in. I definitely do not feel/hear a click from it when using the brake light switch at all.

I find it weird that it also doesn't let me return the key to OFF and take it out, hopefully it fixes that problem too or maybe I have two separate problems. :/
 

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Sidewinder key was not a good idea, they wear out over time. Our '03 Pilot started having issues similar to yours. Replacing the ignition switch assembly fixed it. If this is your problem you MAY get by with just a new key.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
eeeeeh MAYBE, but there are two keys, does it with both. I know what you mean though.
 

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This reminds me of my first truck that required that you step on the brake in order to start the truck... First morning I tried to drive it, it wouldn't start, I called the Dealership , got a hold of my Salesman and reamed him good, He calmly responded "did you step on the brake"... shut me down quick...
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Okay, new development I think, opinions on whether I'm on the right track?

I can now consistently repeat the problem. Star the truck, shifter won't move. Hit the interlock override, moves the fine, goes into every gear. But every gear, you gotta wiggle the shifter around and mess with it to SEE the gear on the dash indicator. INCLUDING Park.

If I then put it in park, but wiggle the shifter just right so that I see the "P" light up... Boom, everything works, key goes to lock position and can be removed. Every single time. If I leave it in this position, the next time I start the truck, the shifter moves freely. Wiggle it just a little so that the "P" goes out, now it's locked again.

So I'm thinking it's gotta be the Range Sensor on the trans at this point? From what I read in another post here, the Range Sensor specifically only TELLS the PCM what gear you've selected, and then in turn tells the dashboard which one to light up. So it's gotta be either the Range Sensor or the wiring for it....

More expensive, but way less work to change. :p
 

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Discussion Starter #17
And before I even get to that, the shift linkage at the rod end was caked in rust and really janky... Took it all apart, lubed it as best I could and put the pin back in temporarily, and the shifter already feels firmer and smoother. For all I know that's all it was. Gotta go get a fresh pin/clip before I can try that.
 
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