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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi,

I don't want to sound like a cheap ass but I just have a question. Is it a must to change all 3 fluids when the MM says so? I bought my Ridgeline brand new. So in order for my warranty to be not voided I followed the MM throughout the 5 years. Now that its not under warranty, I am wondering if its a must do? I can honestly say I don't haul anything, I don't pull anything, I don't even hit vtec often! I live in Edmonton, Canada don't know if that matters or not. But, there are no mountainous areas near by so I don't drive "in the mountains". So would you change your fluids often when MM calls for a change? Just in case anyone asks. I change my oil and filter every time the MM says it needs changing. :grin:
 

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Not to be rude, but why are you posting this on a thread in the section for the Second Generation (2017) Ridgeline? There must be lots of threads on fluid changes and other maintenance topics in the section for First Generation RLs.
 

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My answer is:
Transfer case easiest to ignore. Other posters have in past written that some dealership service centers don't even acknowledge Gen 1 has a transfer case, let alone change the fluid. I change mine. It's not that hard, just a little messy.

Do change your transmission fluid. Since there is no filter involved, it is actually easier than changing your oil.

Do change your VTM-4. The unit is engaged every time you start rolling. Also not that hard. It has an odor to it. Not as stinky as Transfer case in my opinion. I use the hand pump attachment to the VTM-4 fluid bottle.

I'm at 230,000 miles and still going strong.
 

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I am a believer in preventative maintenance and lived with/by PM all my professional life.

Ergo, I am on the side that would consider you to be a cheap a$$. ;)

In fact, I change my tranny fluid every other OCI. Oil and filter by the MM. Transfer assembly and rear diff by the MM. I also do the brake fluid every 3 year-ish. The power steering fluid every 50k-ish. Air and cabin filters every 30k-ish.

I let the TB/wp go to 120k-ish miles before doing that service.

I value my investment in the RL and prefer to maintain it accordingly. Does that guarantee me a long and troublefree service life? No, not necessarily. But just like buying Honda/Toyota, I increase my odds substantially. IMO, of course.

Why would you not wish to continue the recommended (minimal) service intervals?
 

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If you paid your dealer to do these things previously you'll find that doing the PM yourself will save you a considerable amount of money, Then your cheapness is just known as thrifty since your capable to do it yourself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for all your inputs. I will be changing all my fluids in the up coming weeks. I hope I didn't give the impression of never changing the fluids. I just wanted to know if you have to change the fluids right away when the MM tells you...thanks again
 

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Oarnold said it pretty much right above. You'll find the two that you really need to do (Transmission & VTM-4) are also the most expensive ones (the fluid), so throwing in the transfer case isn't that big a deal.

But since you asked the question, you could certainly delay the transfer case for a long time & almost certainly suffer no ill effects. Assuming you're just trying to spread these out to limit the cost impact at any one time..... it wouldn't hurt you at all to wait a month for one or the other of the tranny or VTM-4. This is blasphemy from a conformist standpoint, but given what you've said about your use of the vehicle, you won't be hurting anything.

I WILL say that you should seriously consider changing the power steering fluid, which the MM won't ever tell you to replace. Likewise, your brake fluid should be changed every 3 years or so..... another thing that gets ignored. The brake fluid may be something you need someone else to do for you (depending on your DIY skills), but the PS fluid a 5th grader could do. Both of these are more important in my mind than your transfer case, if you want to put them in perspective.

So just spread out these maintenance tasks over time, and none of them will need to suffer. But be SURE to add the PS fluid (drain & fill) & brake fluid (complete purge) to your list of what to do. There are great threads here (ROC) explaining in more detail. No shame in pinchin' pennies BTW.... just don't be penny-wise & pound foolish (e.g. delaying Tranny & VTM-4).

Have Fun!
 

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I frequently go past the 0% mark by several hundred miles before taking care of business. That won't hurt a thing. But if you postpone for months and thousands of miles, you might even forget about it. So I suggest simply being reasonable about it and you should be good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
All good points guys thanks! I'll be calling the dealership tomorrow for prices on the fluids and have a friend of mine do the Trans and Diff fluid change. Oh since on the topic of maintenance, I'm also changing my spark plugs. I've checked the dealership and ebay for best prices but part numbers don't match. The dealership gave me a part number for NGK Laser iridiums and I found an ebay seller with almost the same P/N. Only difference is the ebay seller has an "s" at the end of the p/n. I asked what's the difference between dealership and his. He said it as the stainless gasket. Anyone know about this? Anyone know if it makes a difference, would it fit? Thanks.
 

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Also, check on-line with Advance Auto and Autozone for the spark plugs. I have found of them to offer some of the best pricing for OEM spark plugs or Honda/Acura. They offer to ship them to you or you can pick them up at the local store. Good Luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Replaced all fluids for $150 cnd parts and labour. All fluids looked good even tranny fluid was clean even though it went past MM and into the next MM.

$10USD for spark plugs you guys are lucky. Its going to cost me $25-$30 for 1 spark plugs. I was told also to change front rotors and brake pads and brake fluid flush. Anyone know a good brand other than the dealership brand?
 

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Replaced all fluids for $150 cnd parts and labour. All fluids looked good even tranny fluid was clean even though it went past MM and into the next MM.

$10USD for spark plugs you guys are lucky. Its going to cost me $25-$30 for 1 spark plugs. I was told also to change front rotors and brake pads and brake fluid flush. Anyone know a good brand other than the dealership brand?
Brand of what?? If you're talking about brake fluid, that's the one fluid that does not need to be Honda brand at all. Just use the recommended specification (Dot-3 is it??). But do have them properly bled (sequence dependent).

You don't need to change your rotors unless they have uneven wear or warpage. I'm still sporting my factory rotors on my 2006 @ 160K+ miles.

As far as pads, many here are happy with the OEM pads.... you can get those from Akebono via Amazon or other sources at decent prices. Many threads here address brake pad alternatives. BE ADVISED that you will find the rear brakes on your RL will wear much more frequently than most other vehicles (where fronts usually wear 2 or 3 times as fast as rears). Pay as much or more attention to the rears as you do the fronts.

Also if you don't already know, your parking brakes are drum/shoes located on the inside of your rear rotors. They should require little attention at all, other than very infrequent adjustment.
 

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I see no purpose in those myself.

YMMV.

The only thing I MIGHT consider would be to use Techron a tank or two before an oil change. Or maybe Seafoam if there was an issue that a teardown might otherwise require (tick in the engine or maybe an oil leak that wasn't readily fixable).... just in the hope that it might fix whatever ails the engine.

I don't think there's any substitute for consistent, routine servicing (maintenance) and good operating procedures.
 

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I see no purpose in those myself.

YMMV.

The only thing I MIGHT consider would be to use Techron a tank or two before an oil change. Or maybe Seafoam if there was an issue that a teardown might otherwise require (tick in the engine or maybe an oil leak that wasn't readily fixable).... just in the hope that it might fix whatever ails the engine.

I don't think there's any substitute for consistent, routine servicing (maintenance) and good operating procedures.
Seafoam??? There is absolutely no proof it does anything. Honda doesn't recommend additives of any kind so why would you?
 

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Seafoam??? There is absolutely no proof it does anything. Honda doesn't recommend additives of any kind so why would you?
Because some have reported it to fix RMS leaks. Before I spent the money to have the RMS replaced, I would be willing to try Seafoam just like I mentioned above... as an option to cracking the case. I certainly don't think it would hurt anything. But neither do I think it will help anything if everything is running normally.

So for normal operations and conditions, I see no benefit to additives, etc.
 

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