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There's a million "switch the headunit" threads already, so I won't delve into detail about that part, other than if you're using an ASWC-1 for your steering controls, don't look past the "crimp the black and brown wire on the main connector together" thread. Lost an hour on that one....

I found this little amp on Amazon for $10 with a coupon, normally $14.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N5DGK37/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The "AOSHIKE TPA3116 DC 12-24v 100W Subwoofer Amplifier Board Support Bass Output digital small power amplifier board Video Audio Accessories" claimed to be 100W (totally accurate, I'm sure...), but was at the right price point with the right connectors. It has pots for volume, and frequency, a headphone style input jack, as well as on board inputs, and options for switching.

Count me impressed. With the new head unit EQ, and the controls adjusted to the music accordingly, it's properly punchy for rock, and cabin filling bassy for some hip-hop or EDM.

I mean, it really doesn't sound bad at all. It's not going to win any contests, but for cabin filling bass for $10, count me in.

I used the Metra Double Din bracket in my head unit install, and found that there was enough space on the side, to mount the amplifier and have short runs to power (stole it off the cigarette lighter adapter), and to the RCA output of the Head Unit, for audio, as well as clamping into the stock subwoofer leads, and not having to run new wire.

Think about it: no amp to hide under the seat and wire. No power wire pull from the battery and remote wire running back to the head unit. No seat removal and cursing - all done in dash.
 

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I have always have these type of 'motorcycle amps' pop up on my Amazon things. Not sure why Amazon things I would like it, even after 4 years, but oh well. They are a bunch of neat ideas and first came across them over at mp3car.com when they were active. I have to say, it is a clean install and a daylight picture would complement your others. Very nice.
 

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Ooohhh ya, I did the same thing:

My subwoofer amp alternative https://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=211372

These are definitely a viable option for a cheap subwoofer amp. Mine came with some anti-pop circuitry built in, but I am still debating getting a relay to send power to the amp when the remote line from my stereo turns on. Does yours pop when power is applied?

Another project I'd like to do is de-solder the potentiometer that controls the volume and run the wires to an external knob. But I can control the volume through the eq settings on my stereo, so it's not a priority.

Anyways, glad to see someone else having the same idea!
 

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These class D amp-on-a-chip solutions are getting very sophisticated. Even the home high end is being infiltrated.

Love the mounting location you chose. Beautiful work!
 

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In the interest of time (ie lack of my interest to put in the time), I opted to add a JBL BassPro SL 8" powered sub ($250) and I couldn't be happier with the added bass. Just my preference & to the delight of my kids.

My question is that I noticed my replaced HU is putting out better quality sound (Pioneer AVH-W4400NEX) and I've been moderately to very pleased with the improvement. Do I *really* need to replace the speakers? The local shop (who installed HU and did a really good job) is saying replacing stock with ~$100 speakers, I'm just doing an even swap and won't notice significant improvement. They're pushing $300 Focal, which do sound amazing in the store, but I'm not made of money.

( I replaced the front tweets back in the day and didn't notice a huge improvement that many here reported. Did the RTL model have better speakers than other trim levels? )
 

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I found this little amp on Amazon for $10 with a coupon, normally $14.
Here's hoping you're still around to comment on this! Looking for a bit of help...

Looking to copy this but I have a question regarding the two audio inputs... As the 3.5mm AUX port is exposed to the front of the head unit along with the gain and crossover dials, I assume you used the cable (included with the amp) to deliver the audio signal to the 3-pin pcb port. If so- what cable did you use? Modified RCA cable? Subwoofer Y-Cable? I'm just trying to understand how you got the signal from the back of the headunit to the amp.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Hoping to begin working on this tonight.
 
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