[djw]

2006 Ridgeline, ~300k miles, borrowed by son, calls to tell me it won't start. I pull battery and it's dead. Tests good, recharge, and replace terminals because they were old anyway, so I figured a bad connection didn't let it charge. Alternator replaced 2 years ago.

Still won't start, all I get is a clicking on turning the key, while in park. Won't even do that in neutral.

Replaced starter last year.

Thoughts? Could the starter be stuck? I whacked it a few times, but not sure how hard to do so. Would a bad fuse/relay allow it to click but not crank?

Thanks.

 

[S.T.U.V]

Could be hearing the starter relay click.... when you wacked the starter, did you hold the key in the start position?

If battery was dead it could be a dead cell if alternator is good. It could test 12 v but wont have the oomph to back it up. Try a known good battery from another car temporarily or you might be able to jump it.

If it was a aftermarket starter it could be junk already. They are a hit and miss in quality.

 

[djw]

Could be hearing the starter relay click.... when you wacked the starter, did you hold the key in the start position?

If battery was dead it could be a dead cell if alternator is good. It could test 12 v but wont have the oomph to back it up. Try a known good battery from another car temporarily or you might be able to jump it.

If it was a aftermarket starter it could be junk already. They are a hit and miss in quality.

Starter relay? Hm, possibility.
Didn't have someone there to turn key while I whacked it; is that critical?
Had battery "tested" at AutoZone. Does that make a difference? Also, forgot to mention, did try jumping it, and no go.
Starter was definitely aftermarket, so a possibility there.
Thanks.

ETA: Just looked it up: Duralast reman starter, purchased 8/19 last year for $190. I hope it's a year warranty.

 

[S.T.U.V]

Starter relay? Hm, possibility.
Didn't have someone there to turn key while I whacked it; is that critical?
Had battery "tested" at AutoZone. Does that make a difference? Also, forgot to mention, did try jumping it, and no go.
Starter was definitely aftermarket, so a possibility there.
Thanks.

ETA: Just looked it up: Duralast reman starter, purchased 8/19 last year for $190. I hope it's a year warranty.

Yea gotta turn the key and wack it at the same time. It not jumping could point to a starter being the culprit.

If all lights turn on and don't dim way down when key is turned then battery should be fine.

 

[djw]

Yea gotta turn the key and wack it at the same time. It not jumping could point to a starter being the culprit.

If all lights turn on and don't dim way down when key is turned then battery should be fine.

Alrighty, then. Take second body to turn key while I whack it. Failing that, pull starter. Yay. At least it's a relatively easy job, and I don't have to lay on the ground.

Thanks again.

 

[Cochise111]

Alrighty, then. Take second body to turn key while I whack it. Failing that, pull starter. Yay. At least it's a relatively easy job, and I don't have to lay on the ground.

Thanks again.

Those reduction gear starters have two brass contacts that make connection with a brass disk in the solenoid. I used to be able to get the contacts for about ten bucks and replace them. The reduction gear starter motors almost never fail because they don't turn very fast.. I'm not sure if the contacts are available these days.

 

[S.T.U.V]

Those reduction gear starters have two brass contacts that make connection with a brass disk in the solenoid. I used to be able to get the contacts for about ten bucks and replace them. The reduction gear starter motors almost never fail because they don't turn very fast.. I'm not sure if the contacts are available these days.

Ours have a brush set inside. They are not like the old toyota, honda starters where you could buy two contacts for about $20 and every other rebuild, buy the center disc "plunger" for $40 ish and have a brand new starter. I guess because they got cheaper it was just easier to buy the complete thing.

I used to just rebuild them on my desk for people when I worked retail parts. I would be like bring it in...I got the parts....bring me a 6 pack or some lunch and I'll get it done in 20 minutes.

 

[Cochise111]

Ours have a brush set inside. They are not like the old toyota, honda starters where you could buy two contacts for about $20 and every other rebuild, buy the center disc "plunger" for $40 ish and have a brand new starter. I guess because they got cheaper it was just easier to buy the complete thing.

I used to just rebuild them on my desk for people when I worked retail parts. I would be like bring it in...I got the parts....bring me a 6 pack or some lunch and I'll get it done in 20 minutes.

I used to do the same thing. I didn't know they changed the design. My bad.

 

[djw]

Update: Swapped out starter (lifetime warranty, woohoo!) aaaand... same thing, clicking. I put a breaker bar on the crank and rotated it some, thinking maybe a problem with flywheel. Nothing. Moved good battery from other vehicle. Still clicky. Ran jumper from good battery directly to starter. Still just clicks at me. I'm at a loss. Is the new starter also bad, or is there something else I'm missing? Unfortunately, I didn't put multimeter on new starter before installing...

 

[speedlever]

I can only think of battery cables/ground as possible trouble spots left to check.

 

[djw]

I can only think of battery cables/ground as possible trouble spots left to check.

I didn't think to check the actual connection to ground. I'll give it a shot. Thanks.

 

[yukonosufan]

My son's 2006 Ridgeline has the same problem. Apparently there is a problem with bad production run of solenoids. In a span of three weeks, Installed two rebuilt starters from O'Reily's, one new after market from NAPA and one new after market from Autozone. All have the same problem, turn the key and can hear solenoid click but starter doesn't work. Hit the solenoid with a hammer and it may work. Checked solenoid with multimeter. 12.55 V from battery to solenoid, turn key to start and approximately 9 V to small wire that engages the solenoid. Checked voltage from solenoid to starter and got 0 V. Hit the solenoid a few times with a hammer and the truck started right up. Measured voltage from solenoid to the starter when it works and read over 10 V. Probably going to have to bite the bullet and pick one up from Honda.

 

[S.T.U.V]

Yep. Aftermarket electrical stuff is usually 3-5 times junk. I usually stay away from anything with a lifetime warranty. Means it was cheap enough to produce so the sale of 1 item pays for 10 of them.