Honda Ridgeline Owners Club Forums banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
293 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
This is weird! Since the weather got cold I 've remote started my 2019 RTL-E. But when I remote start, the climate control will only blow ice cubes and the engine temp gets up close to the H when I'm at a stop light. When I shut the engine off and restart, everything works fine. I took it to Honda and it worked fine for them and they have no clue what it could be. Today I did not remote start and the climate control worked fine. Does anybody else have this issue?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
157 Posts
Never had this happen. I remote start every winter morning and summer afternoon day after having my truck for 2 years.

Blow ice cubes meaning cold air even after the truck should be warm? I remote start for 5 minutes or so in the mornings and the truck isn't warm yet when I get in, but after about 1 mile of driving it's getting warm. Never seen the temp gauge read awkward.

Do you think it's blowing AC not heat and the temp sensor is confused about the outside temp?

Mike
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,386 Posts
Regardless of the temp gauge, have you hooked up an OBD scanner to look at the actual temp reading?
From what I understand, the remote start pulls information from various sensors, to modulate the heating/cooling during the remote start operation. Once that is terminated, when you get in and press the brake and start button, the system defaults to user setting.
If the temperature gauge is indeed headed towards the High side, then the radiator fan is not turning on as it should; could be a faulty wiring, faulty fan, faulty temp sensor/fan trigger, or a faulty thermostat. These are just the basic components that could fail and cause the water temp to be high.

Documenting something like this, usually hard to replicate by the 'dealerships', in either pictures, video or and OBD log would work best in your case.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
293 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Regardless of the temp gauge, have you hooked up an OBD scanner to look at the actual temp reading?
From what I understand, the remote start pulls information from various sensors, to modulate the heating/cooling during the remote start operation. Once that is terminated, when you get in and press the brake and start button, the system defaults to user setting.
If the temperature gauge is indeed headed towards the High side, then the radiator fan is not turning on as it should; could be a faulty wiring, faulty fan, faulty temp sensor/fan trigger, or a faulty thermostat. These are just the basic components that could fail and cause the water temp to be high.

Documenting something like this, usually hard to replicate by the 'dealerships', in either pictures, video or and OBD log would work best in your case.
I would assume the dealer hooked up an OBD because they said there were no codes. The fan does work because it was running after I shut the truck off as if it were a 100 degree day. It's been working perfectly the last two days since the outside temp has been 10-15 degrees warmer when I first start it. I wonder if the very cold temps (10-12 degrees) played a part? Thanks for the feedback.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
293 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Well it happened again. It was 6 degrees “F” at 9am and once again the heat didn’t work. But this time I was able to gather some insight.

When I left my house the engine temp gauge rose to normal in about 2 minutes, (that’s fast at 6 degrees with no remote start warm up) and within 10 minutes it was up to the “H” and the “engine too hot” icon came on. (Still no heat). I pulled over and the radiator cooling fan started running after I shut the engine off. After a couple of minutes I started the engine and the temp gauge was sitting at normal but when I got to my destination (about one more mile) the gauge was back to the “H”.

I lifted the hood and the heat rising from the engine compartment seemed no hotter than normal. I felt the upper radiator hose and it also didn’t feel over heated. Then I felt the heater core hoses and they were both cold.

It was only about 5 minutes before I headed for home and the gauge started at normal but within a mile I had to pull over again. After about 2 minute I started the engine and it did the same thing, but this time before I could pull over the temp gauge suddenly dropped from “H” to normal and stayed there for the rest of my trip. And when I say “suddenly dropped” I mean within 5 seconds. Sadly however there was still no heat. I felt the hoses when I got home and they felt the same as before.

I’ll be headed back to the dealer for the 3rd time but this time I’ll be armed with story above. But in the mean time I’ll ask again if anyone else has had this problem?
 

·
Registered
2019 Sport Lunar Silver
Joined
·
122 Posts
2 things in your last post caught my attention.
#1. Once warmed up, the upper rad. hose should feel quite hot. That's where the heated coolant comes out of the engine. If it's not getting hot, most likely thermostat.
#2. A sudden drop could be the T-stat popping open from being stuck.
Further diagnosis required. Lean on your dealer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
293 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
2 things in your last post caught my attention.
#1. Once warmed up, the upper rad. hose should feel quite hot. That's where the heated coolant comes out of the engine. If it's not getting hot, most likely thermostat.
#2. A sudden drop could be the T-stat popping open from being stuck.
Further diagnosis required. Lean on your dealer.
The upper hose does get hot but the heater core hoses stay cold.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
293 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I believe the engine is not actually over heating. I would think the upper hose would be very hot but it felt normal.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,386 Posts
Rather than do a guessing game, the best thing to do is get an OBD reader to check on the coolant temperature (echo of my statement from 3 months ago)

Few things to look at.
  • Check to see if you have coolant in the overflow reservoir once the engine is warmed up. Once it is warm, fluid expands and overflows to the bottle.
  • Replace the thermostat. Inexpensive and straight forward to change. Do be mindful of the torque on the bolts. if you snap even one, you are screwed (no pun intended). If you are under warranty, then the dealership can do this
  • Ensure there are no leaks in the engine bay
  • Ensure you are nor burning coolant (smell & visual)
  • Could be a faulty sensor and if it indeed bad, and you are under warranty, let the dealership address it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
293 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Rather than do a guessing game, the best thing to do is get an OBD reader to check on the coolant temperature (echo of my statement from 3 months ago)

Few things to look at.
  • Check to see if you have coolant in the overflow reservoir once the engine is warmed up. Once it is warm, fluid expands and overflows to the bottle.
  • Replace the thermostat. Inexpensive and straight forward to change. Do be mindful of the torque on the bolts. if you snap even one, you are screwed (no pun intended). If you are under warranty, then the dealership can do this
  • Ensure there are no leaks in the engine bay
  • Ensure you are nor burning coolant (smell & visual)
  • Could be a faulty sensor and if it indeed bad, and you are under warranty, let the dealership address it.
Thanks for you thoughts smufguy. The reservoir was at proper level and I'm sure the t/stat is good. There are definitely no leaks. I do like the sensor theory.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top