[eurban]

Cool! Sounds like your new scanner has access to more data than those using Torque pro or in my case Blue Driver. Seeing TPMS battery level for instance.

Short term fuel trims should be up and down. Your long tern fuel trims should be fairly consistent and relatively close to zero. My 06 has it's long term trims between +3-4% which is in "normal" range. I do wonder if the 10% Ethanol+winter blend gas that we are stuck with here in the MidAtlantic is responsible for the consistently positive low level adding of fuel to the base map. If you have access to E and non E gas it would be interesting to see the effect on fuel trims.

One of these day we should start a thread on scan data experiences . . .

 

[eurban]

I am using the Blue Driver bluetooth unit and software on my Iphone. It provides more data with my wife's 2009 Audi than it does with my 2006 Ridgeline but I don't know if that is a result of brand specifics or the change over to CAN?

It's actually a pretty impressive hardware / program combination able to provide repair reports with suggested fixes, and a smog readiness check. It also is very easy to send the live data log via email (etc) in a spreadsheet format. I have attached a live data log from a recent run in my 06 Ridgeline. I selected only some of the available data points. One thing that I noticed on this run with the slight discrepancy between Bank1 and Bank2 long term fuel trims. Truck has 110k miles on it and I have already replaced the easy to get to Bank 2 before and after sensors so the higher trim in Bank1(Rear) may be as a result of the older sensors. It could of course be any number of things. . .

Blue Driver is constantly updating their software / hardware so hopefully they will continue to improve the product for Honda use.

 

[eurban]

Skelly,

I don't know much about the Honda numbers vs the OBDII numbers. That said here are some thoughts on your fuel trim % numbers:

Don't worry about the bank 3 and bank 4 stuff. Our trucks only of Bank 1 and Bank 2

The trim numbers don't really mean much until your vehicle is at operating temp. Make absolutely sure that your truck is FULLY warmed up before you concern yourself over the %s. I would suggest you take your truck out for a nice long ride including stop and go stuff as well as steady 50mph+ cruising. Examine your trims during this drive.

I read the same article talking about the combination numbers of short term trims ans long term trims but I can't make too much sense of it. Short term trims will always vary and they do sometimes spike up well over +-10/15%. Best as I can tell, this is normal. It may make some sense if you are seeing a CONSISTENT situation where the trims total more than 10% on the + or - sides.

If you find that your Long term fuel trims (LTFT) are consistently over 10% in one or both banks then you probably do have something less than optimal with your truck or the gasoline that is in the tank. If your fully warmed up truck has elevated + long term trims at idle, but the short trims go solidly negative when you increase the RPMs (while in park) then you may well have some small vacuum leak. If STFT's increase as you increase RPM then look to fuel delivery (injector issues, fuel filter, fuel pump etc etc.

10% ethanol gas probably has an effect on long term fuel trims. In the DC area, I can't get anything but E10 without driving a million miles and paying stupid money. I wouldn't be surprised to see as much as a 5% increase in LTFTs as a result of it (and other winter blend additives) on our truck.

Keeping things in perspective, your truck seems to be running reasonably well (my trim number are "better" than yours but am averaging between 14 and 15mpg right now in the driving that I do!) The trims on your truck are also in the controllable range (your mixture is fine)

If someone else out there wants to share their Ridge's LTFT behaviors (preferably from an 09+) it would be very useful to compare to your truck.

PS: My truck also has a similar difference between LTFTs for bank 1 and 2. My bank 2 numbers are a typically a couple of % points lower (closer to zero). It may well be the nature of the plumbing for our trucks.

 

[eurban]

Well, 1075F = 579C which isn't too far off. Maybe one is labeled wrong. It would make sense that if the Honda side was in Celsius. I noticed they used KPa vs PSI, so the "international" units seem to be in play. I also remember that Cats are VERY hot (more than mufflers).... I just don't recall how hot.

Convertors don't really operate well until they are at least 400F and can heat up to 1600f and beyond. Typically, the cleaner the vehicle is running the lower the number. I do think that his Honda number must be in C. There is no reason to think that the OBD data is incorrect while the Honda is correct. Its just that the Honda number should have a C after it while the OBD # correctly has an F.