Honda Ridgeline Owners Club Forums banner

1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi Everyone,

I purchased a '14 Ridgeline SE on Jan. 16. I love it and had a great experience until this past Friday when a handful of quirky issues reared their head. See below:

- On my way home from work on Friday, the Passenger Airbag light flickered on and off multiple times. This occurred without warrant as I didn’t press any buttons. It seems to have subsided since then, but I found it odd that this transpired.

- On Saturday, I was attempting to reset the door locking system so that each door would automatically unlock after I put the vehicle in park. I was unsuccessful in doing so, and for whatever reason, the next time I started the vehicle, I had to login to the navigation system (first time I’ve had to do that since leaving your lot) and my trip settings were reset.

- A few times after starting the vehicle on Saturday and Sunday, the gas mileage gauge (not sure the actual name of it, but it’s the 0-to-40 bar on the dash that slides up and down during your trip) didn’t show up right away as it normally does. I had to cycle through the dash options for it to ultimately reappear.

- Throughout the weekend, it sounded as if the vehicle’s start was labored. It didn’t have the powerful turnover that it ordinarily had for the first few weeks I had it home.

- This morning at my daughter’s daycare, on my first pass at starting the vehicle upon dropping her off, it flat out didn’t start. I gave it a second and said a quick prayer, and on the second pass, it turned over, albeit a struggle to get there. Once it did turn over, everything reset again and I had to log back into the navigation system.

Any insight as to what may be causing these issues? I'm a new Honda owner. The previous car I had was an '03 Nissan Altima, so I'm not used to all these computerized and electrically based bells and whistles. I'm hoping there's a reasonable explanation as to why these things are occuring, but I was interested to hear if anyone has any insight as to what may be causing these problems.

Thank you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I think so. Something rather light. Are you suggesting that if there's nothing or nobody in the seat, the airbag automatically turns off?

That's really the least of my concerns though. I'm more worred about the starting issue.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
86 Posts
I am by no means an expert - but it sounds like a connection yo your battery is shorting out - flickering lights - failed start - systems resetting - I would make sure your battery is connected well as a start and then bring her in for a professional look -
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
389 Posts
As for the airbag, if the vehicle thinks there is a child or baby in the passenger seat, it will turn that side off for safety. A small light bag or something can trigger this.

The starting problem sounds like a loose battery terminal. The smallest bump or door closing can move it around. Start by inspecting the battery and terminals.

Q
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Thanks, guys. I'm the furthest thing you'll find from a motorhead, so any advice I can solicit -- even from hundreds of miles away without an eyeball test -- is most appreciated.
 

·
Registered
2007 Nimbus Grey Metallic RTL
Joined
·
10,048 Posts
A few things pop into my mind. All sorts of weird things happen to the RL when the battery isn't giving the proper voltage. If you have resetting trip meters and all sorts of these electrical issues, I'd say you either have a loose connection on the battery itself (as stated by Qxtreem) or you have a bad cell within the battery itself. Even brand new batteries can be bad. Plus, you never know how long it sat in a production lot, on a transport truck or on the dealer lot. Being that it's winter and has been very cold, it's possible that the battery in the truck died while on the lot and it was recharged before you bought it. Once a typical non-AGM car battery completely looses charge and is recharged, it is never the same again and will fail much sooner than normal. Bottom line, take it back to the dealer and have it looked at under your warranty. Have them do a load test on the entire charging system to rule out things such as the starter and alternator. Also have them check every power and ground lead for the charging system to make sure everything is tight and secure. If the load test of the battery shows anything less than 90% or so of its rated CCA number, replace it. The stock battery that comes in the RL is pretty weak, so I would recommend you trying to get the best battery you can if the dealership offers anything better than the stock one.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,156 Posts
I agree with the something sitting on the seat causing the air bag light to go,on and off thing.

Clean the battery terminals. You can get a terminal cleaner at the auto store for about five bucks. Make sure the clamps are good and tight and seated all the way down.

Even though its a new vehicle there is an off chance you have a crap battery. Let us know if cleaning and tightening the battery terminals solves any of your problems.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,311 Posts
Sounds like you need a new battery. The dealer replaced mine just short of 24 months.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,599 Posts
Had battery issues when I bought mine in 2010. Truck sat on dealer lot long before I bought it and I didn't drive far enough to keep or secure the charge of battery. Booster cables and a long 1 hour drive did the trick and was OK after that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,350 Posts
I'm voting with the battery (electrical connection) group on the non starting and weird behavior.

Since it is a new truck, I would print out the description you gave us, and drop it at the dealer. This should not happen with a new truck and you should not have to try to fix it yourself. It is warranty for sure. In addition, since you are not a gearhead, I would not want you to inadvertently fry something while playing with the battery.

I have a long story about electric gremlins on my new 2012, but I will spare you. After 3 days they found a bad connection inside the fuse box. Hopefully your problem is more easily diagnosed as battery.
 

·
Super Moderator
2008 Ridgeline RTS in Billet Silver Metallic
Joined
·
22,582 Posts
Agree with the above with either the battery or a connection to the battery being the culprit. Also agree that anything set in the passenger seat will trip the light. If it's just the right weight, it can cause the light to trigger on and off as you ride down the road. Very light weight won't set it off. Heavy enough and it stays on. Just right and it will likely be at the trigger threshold.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
I concur.

When you have crazy random things happening to your electrical (like you described) there is usually only one culprit.

The battery connections. My money would be on the ground cable.

You said you're not a motorhead, so I'm going to go into great detail here in order to help you out.

(Note: Be mindful that disconnecting your battery will erase all saved settings in your car. Also, DON'T CROSS RED AND BLACK WIRES. This will apply 12 volts to ground at near infinite amperage and blow your fuses. Keep them separated. Also, do not touch the + and - terminals at the same time, or you'll turn your battery into a welder.)

Here's what you need.

- A pair of gloves (just to be safe)
- A 10 mm socket or wrench
- A wire brush
- (Hopefully not!) a solution of baking soda and water (1:10 part mix works well)
- Dialetric grease (battery terminal dressing, sold for $.99 cents at your local big box autoparts store, usually by the cash register)

First off, open the hood and look at the battery. Check the dot on the battery (should be between the terminals) against your manual and make sure the battery didn't fail. If it did, get a jump from a buddy, and go to the dealer and get it replaced.

If that's good, proceed to step two.

Look at your battery connections (the grey metal pieces wrapped around the terminals) are they discolored with white or yellow powdery substance ? Then they're corroded. You'll need to clean them.

If they're not, then your next step is to check to see if they're loose. Touching ONLY ONE AT A TIME (and don't touch the car either) try moving the ground (that's the cable marked with a - sign on the battery and the cable is black) Does it wiggle at all ? If so, it needs to be tightened. Use your 10 mm wrench to tighten it, careful not to touch the red cable.

If not, move on to the positive cable (this is a red cable, and it's connected to the side of the battery marked +) do the same thing, wiggling it back and forth. It should be tight. If not, tighten it, careful not to touch the black cable OR the truck frame with your wrench. Otherwise, you can end up with a totally new mod - the welded wrench to the frame mod.

If they're tight, but you see corrosion, you need to clean your terminals. Disconnect the ground (black) cable first using the 10 mm wrench or socket (loosen it until it moves freely but don't remove the bolt (they can be a pain to get back in) , sometimes corroded ones stick so you might have to tug a bit, and route the cable where it can't flop back over on top of the battery. Now do the same with the other cable.

Now, you can clean your battery. Using the baking soda and water, apply it to the top of the battery terminal and the terminal clamp (that's attached to the cable). It'll bubble, and the baking soda will neutralize the acid. This is why you want gloves. Once the bubbling stops, rinse it off with water and then use your wire brush to clean the terminal until you see clean metal. If you get it on your hands because you didn't wear gloves - use the baking soda and water to clean it off of your hands.

Do the same with the other terminal.

Now put a thin coat of dialetric grease around the inside of your terminal clamps on both cables (I use my finger). This will prevent corrosion from occurring in the future.

Once that's done. Reconnect your battery terminals, starting with the red terminal first. Tighten down the bolt on the side of the terminal until the terminal won't move when you twist it with your hand. (These are lead, so don't go all he-man on them) Now, coat the top of that battery cable with dialetric grease.

Now, do the same with the negative (ground, black) terminal. When you connect this terminal, you'll be completing the circuit, so all of the lights and such will come back on, the engine fan might come on if the engine is still hot (so watch your hands!) and you're almost done.

Tighten down the clamp until you can't move it with a free hand. Now coat the terminal clamp in dialetric grease.

Clean up your tools, and close the hood. Start your car.

Now you'll (almost guaranteed, though some high end cars store this information on hard drives) your navigation, trip info, and the like. You'll have to reprogram it. Sorry, nature of the beast.

Also, you might (I don't know, I just bought mine) find that the automatic window isn't so automatic. No worries, most of the time all you have to do to restart it is hold down the driver side window button down until the window goes all of the way down, and then wind it all of the way back up. That usually resets it.

Now take your truck for a drive. See if you have the same problems as before. Most likely, they'll be resolved. If so, treat yourself to a cold one when you got back, and now you can save yourself some $$ by knowing how to troubleshoot the most common causes for battery trouble yourself.

This 10 minute job would likely cost you $100 at the stealership if it's not a warranty repair. That's money that could go towards mods. :act064:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
All of you have been very helpful, and I appreciate the feedback! Rather than giving this a go on my own, I am simply going to take the vehicle into the dealer on Friday morning for a look. It hasn't even been a month that I've had the Ridgeline yet, so I've already made it clear with the dealer that I'm not shelling out any dough for service.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
80 Posts
my 2013 had a parasitic draw on the battery. The glove box doesn't fully engage the switch for the light. We found it when driving at night, it looked like lighting bolts coming from the glove box. Solved the problem by applying a self adhesive rubber foot to the inside of the glove box door.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,227 Posts
All of you have been very helpful, and I appreciate the feedback! Rather than giving this a go on my own, I am simply going to take the vehicle into the dealer on Friday morning for a look. It hasn't even been a month that I've had the Ridgeline yet, so I've already made it clear with the dealer that I'm not shelling out any dough for service.
Good plan!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,141 Posts
All of you have been very helpful, and I appreciate the feedback! Rather than giving this a go on my own, I am simply going to take the vehicle into the dealer on Friday morning for a look. It hasn't even been a month that I've had the Ridgeline yet, so I've already made it clear with the dealer that I'm not shelling out any dough for service.
It would not cost you anything but your time your vehicle is under warranty your battery is under warranty at this time. Take to dealer let them fix check it out or fix it. This way there is a record of problem even if they don't find anything wrong. If the same problem would occur later on they have a record.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,254 Posts
No need to be concerned

All of you have been very helpful, and I appreciate the feedback! Rather than giving this a go on my own, I am simply going to take the vehicle into the dealer on Friday morning for a look. It hasn't even been a month that I've had the Ridgeline yet, so I've already made it clear with the dealer that I'm not shelling out any dough for service.
If it is a 2014 you have warranty, no worries. Bad PDI.
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top