Considering Facelifted Gen 1

2776 Views 13 Replies 10 Participants Last post by ROBSRTL, Mar 29, 2017

JEL

Discussion Starter · Mar 24, 2017

Hello all,

I'm considering getting a Gen1, probably a 2013 or 2014. From what I gather these are solid rigs, as expected, but in my limited searching and knowledge it appears they have a couple quirks. I recently sold my second 4runner (a 2006 4th gen) and I'm driving my trusted '05 Accord V6, but we are looking for an AWD rig for skiing, hiking, and such. I drove a 2014 and was thoroughly impressed with the way it drove like a normal car for day-to-day use, I had looked at the 5th gen 4runners but I had too many problems with my 4th and it left a bad taste, whereas my Accord has been rock solid for years.

Since I'm looking at a facelifted model, do these still have the troublesome radiator issue? I wasn't able to confirm the later models had an updated radiator design that prevents this issue, but as a former 3rd gen 4runner owner who got bit by this, I want to avoid it. I certainly don't mind replacing the radiator with a new one every 100k or so, I did this in my 3rd with a Koyo after it started to leak internally.

Do these things suffer from a lot of water leaks? I am stuck in soggy, awful Seattle another 1.5-2 years and it gets into everything here, my 4runners both leaked, my Accord had a leak recently, all my cars here have leaked at one point or another from the relentless rain, so if it's a common issue on the newer RLs it's something I'll have to consider.

Any other advice would be much appreciated, I plan at looking for a certified one from a Honda dealer, even then they're still about $15-20k less than an equivalent 4runner, more if I buy in SoCal or AZ (Seattle prices are way over-inflated on EVERYTHING)

Thank you

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ROBSRTL

· #2 · Mar 24, 2017

I far as my opinion is. Buy the RL. Even if you end up replacing the radiator it's worth the risk. And more Pilots had radiator problems then the RL. A certified one is well worth it. You will not regret it. get er done

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Heli ATP

· #3 · Mar 24, 2017

There have been some Ridgelines with leaks and some with failed Rad fittings. The leaks have usually been noticed by wet carpet from water coming through the firewall when seal was not applied well or through the roof rack attachment points, after the rack was bolted down too tight.

The leaks if caught early can be re-sealed and leave no long term damage. A good inspection of any vehicle you intend to purchase should offset this problem and if its a certified truck I would have confidence in the purchase.

The Radiator issue is real. 100K miles seems to be the magic number as you mentioned. Some people have changed the Rad when doing the timing belt replacement at around 100K.

Good luck with your purchase.

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ISO Truck

· #4 · Mar 24, 2017

Welcome to the ROC!

For general shopping advice, any 2013-2014 will have an oem rearview camera. If you go back to older models, then only the top trim RTL-Navi will have an OEM rearview camera. Since you are looking for a CPO, it moslt likely will be a 2013/14 model and you won't have to worry about this distinction.

The "Navi" option is available at the high end. A lot of people feel the Navi option offered in the Ridgeline was a bit antiquated, especially in later model years (they never updated it during the entire production run from 2006-2014.) So you may be inclined to skip it and just get a straght "RTL" model without Navi. Just be aware that the Navi option included some other features as well, such as voice commands, bluetooth, and a more sophisticated multi-information display in the dash.

Good luck with your search.

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feetdry

· #5 · Mar 24, 2017

'Been "stuck" in the Seattle metro area since 1986. My 08 RTL only has a leak if I open the sunroof when it's raining. I don't do that so I have never had any leaks since new here and after 236,000 miles.

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JEL

Discussion Starter · #6 · Mar 24, 2017

Thank you all, good to know all these little things, didn't know that about the back up cams and that's definitely a nice thing to have, so '13-'14 it is.

I really appreciate the info, good to know about the leaks as well, they simply drive me nuts and every car I've had has developed one at some time or another living in Seattle. I really like how they look in black, especially the Sport that's all blacked out, but I also know Honda black paint has historically been pretty bad, and within the next couple of years I will be moving back south to Southern California where I routinely see peeling black Accords of my gen. I did read of some problems with the earlier black RLs, not sure if that ever got corrected or not?

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ridged

· #7 · Mar 24, 2017

I think that if an exhaustive study was done, it would find that most radiator replacements were done preemptively. That's why I did mine and the factory radiator looked like new when it was removed (I kept it as a backup). For the minor investment, it brings peace of mind and one less thing to worry about.

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Carsmak

· #8 · Mar 24, 2017

I think all Black and other Dark Color Paints don't hold up like they used to, primarily because of the goal of "environmentally friendly" paints. I've seen Dodge Dakota's, Chevy Impala's and Ford F-150's (all vehicles owned by friends) all with Black Paint pealing in So Cal (many right here in the parking lot at work).

IMHO, if I was getting a "Black" or other dark color, I'd seriously consider getting a matching Wrap applied, they would last between 3-5 years from what I've read and the paint will look like brand new underneath.

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FTM1

· #9 · Mar 24, 2017

We purchased the 2007 RTL Nav new in Feb 2007 so had it 10yrs. It's got 163,000+ miles on it dealer serviced no leaks interior. No radiator replacement timing belt and water pump replacement done at
Maint Minder recommended time. Spark plugs changed a bit latter.
Replace Cat Converter over 4yrs ago. Dark Cherry Pearl paint in very good condition. 2007 was first year on that color for Honda. Vehicle kept outside all the time except when deep snow predicted.

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smufguy

· #10 · Mar 27, 2017

I have a 2010 and changed my radiator couple of weeks ago with 187,000 miles on the ODO. My OEM radiator had oxidation on the bottom of the radiator where the fins meet the plastic end tanks. Also the Trans cooler (in a way warmer) line also had a leak, but the fitting going to the plastic end tank was secure and showed no sign of rotting or corrosion. Changed the upper & Lower radiator hose along with the thermostat while I was at it. The whole job for Radiator, coolant fill, Upper & lower radiator hose, thermostat and trans cooler lines should take you about 3 hours if you have no lift (like me) and no power tools. All in all, it is a pretty straight forward repair.

I would recommend that you demand all fluids (oil, coolant, transmission, rear differential, transfer case, brake, & powersteering) be changed. Get a multi point inspection done to ensure that the driveline is in good shape along with the body (no rust in weird places). Ignition is fine and the spark plugs can pretty much drive themselves till the truck falls apart, as they don't foul in this motor AFAIK).

In my honest opinion, this is a very forgiving and reliable vehicle. It takes a beating and can tow happily up to 4K lbs (wont push it to the full 5K).

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Carsmak

· #11 · Mar 27, 2017

smufguy said:
I have a 2010 and changed my radiator couple of weeks ago with 187,000 miles on the ODO. My OEM radiator had oxidation on the bottom of the radiator where the fins meet the plastic end tanks. Also the Trans cooler (in a way warmer) line also had a leak, but the fitting going to the plastic end tank was secure and showed no sign of rotting or corrosion. Changed the upper & Lower radiator hose along with the thermostat while I was at it. The whole job for Radiator, coolant fill, Upper & lower radiator hose, thermostat and trans cooler lines should take you about 3 hours if you have no lift (like me) and no power tools. All in all, it is a pretty straight forward repair.

I would recommend that you demand all fluids (oil, coolant, transmission, rear differential, transfer case, brake, & powersteering) be changed. Get a multi point inspection done to ensure that the driveline is in good shape along with the body (no rust in weird places). Ignition is fine and the spark plugs can pretty much drive themselves till the truck falls apart, as they don't foul in this motor AFAIK).

In my honest opinion, this is a very forgiving and reliable vehicle. It takes a beating and can tow happily up to 4K lbs (wont push it to the full 5K).

@smufguy

If you still have the OEM tank which you removed, would you mind doing a little investigating, and provide some pics and break down those fittings, Questions remain if the design changed with the '09 refresh. Recently a member purchased an OEM Denso tank, and it was the same as the design used by Spectra, CSF and OSC.

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smufguy

· #12 · Mar 28, 2017

Carsmak said:
@smufguy

If you still have the OEM tank which you removed, would you mind doing a little investigating, and provide some pics and break down those fittings, Questions remain if the design changed with the '09 refresh. Recently a member purchased an OEM Denso tank, and it was the same as the design used by Spectra, CSF and OSC.

Sure I could, I still have it propped in my garage. I will get them up by this weekend.

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ddawson

· #13 · Mar 29, 2017

In Nor Cal so wettest winter on record this year. No leaks at all.

I have a 2011 with 38K miles. No radiator issues but I don't know if anything was done to correct the issue.

I plan to change it at 50K anyway.

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ROBSRTL

· #14 · Mar 29, 2017

2010 RTL 75k no problems, so far. Live in CT and have the standard mix of hot and cold seasons.

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