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Discussion Starter #1
No doubt this has been brought up before, yet here I go. I was a Amsoil user before when I believe it was one of the first synthetic oils. Now I am curious what is the trade-off? Is it worth the extra $$ or as long as frequent good oil and filter changes are made engine will be good? Those that have put lots of miles on theirs whats your opinion?
 

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Well there are a lot of different opinions, but the facts don't support popular opinions.

Every single independent (those that I would consider honest) say that there is no significant difference in engine wear between a good quality conventional oil and a premium synthetic oil. Keep in mind that those results are based on normal use.

But, and there's always a but, there's no doubt that premium synthetic oils preform much better than conventional oils in extreme conditions. The easiest example would be from some of our own ROC members that live in extremely cold conditions (northern Alaska and Canada). When you get oil -30 F a conventional oil is nearly a solid and the engine is simply not going to start.

I personally use synthetic oil and a good quality oil filter. Am I wasting my money... probably, but it makes me feel better and I can afford it. I also operate my vehicles in extreme conditions. I like to know that if I end up stuck in traffic on a highway in the desert for 3 hours at 122 F (which really happened) I have the added protection of synthetic oil because I'm not going to shut the A/C off.

The are certain snake oil companies that make wild claims and cite anonymous "independent" lab results, etc. There are also those that make wild claims on extended drain intervals. Why would synthetic oil not get dirty? That's why we change oil.

Use common sense and you'll be fine.
 

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Two and a half million miles. Haven't used synthetic yet. Driven dozens of different cars and trucks. NEVER have had an engine issue. Never have towed with any of them but drive all year long here in the NW. 20 years ago I started "the 5,000 mile rule". Change oil, filter and lube every 5. I also rotate tires at the same time.

Probably, should start using a better engine oil but I think I'll wait until I have my first problem with an engine. It looks like this RL is going to make it to 300,000 now after its rest and a new airbag inflator. Well maybe with the next RL I should try some of that synthetic stuff.

Wish I had the same results with transmissions. No problem with this RL but I can't say the same about some Chrysler products.
 

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Well , feetdry obviously drives the wheels off his vehicles and drives far more than I do. ;)

That being said, I prefer to use a good quality synthetic oil for one main reason... superior cold flow characteristics. I believe most engine wear occurs on a cold start. I prefer the syn oil as it flows better when cold. I do NOT use syn oil to extend OCIs. But I do drive my RL/Pilot until the MM read 0% and often a few hundred miles beyond.

While I can understand why feetdry is dispassionate about syn oil, his operating environment is probably much different from most of the rest of the ROC. An engine that rarely gets shut down and is frequently used can be expected to have a longer service live (time in service) vs a hangar queen that has few miles and is seldom driven. So whether you get 500,000 miles out of an engine over 10 years vs 250,000 miles over 20 years may be the difference.

This is the one down side of the limited usage my RL has seen due to the airbag issue (and having a 3rd vehicle - the old Civic to drive). However, I make it a point to crank it weekly and drive it about 2 miles and let it run for 20-30 minutes before shutting down until the next week cycle is due. I hope that's sufficient to keep the gaskets, seals, bearings, etc. properly lubed and maintained.

As usual, YMMV.
 

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Keep in mind.....

For most Ridgelines OEM recommended oil is 0W20. Honda also recommends this oil for virtually all of the 3.5 engines made in the past 8 or 9 years which they put in all sorts of vehicles including Acura. To the best of my knowledge there is no conventional option for 0W20, they are all synthetic. Using anything else would not meet the manufacturer specification unless you have an 06-08 Ridgeline that was originally specified with 5W20.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Thanks other RL owners. I plan on using synthetic, as I want to use the best. I do believe, depending on miles driven and kind of driving conditions, that overall synthetic is better. With other vehicles I have owned with Amsoil, I occasionally would only change the filter (losing around 1 qt) as the synthetic doesn't break down like conventional oil. Though, the most important thing is to regularly change the oil and oil filter as they will collect contaminants as said elsewhere. This is my new baby and I plan on keeping it a long time.
 

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I use synthetic for the exact same reasons as speedlever - cold flow characteristics and superior protection for cold starts and cold/hot temperatures. For a few extra bucks, I feel better about using the steady diet of Pennzoil Platinum/Ultra that my truck has seen. Another thing to consider is a quality oil filter. You can use the best of the best oil, but if you use a $2 cheapo Fram filter, you're running just as much risk. You don't have to get a $20 Royal Purple filter, but a $6-7 Purolator PureOne or something similar to that will do. I don't drive much and change oil about once very 10-12 months, so having a quality filter is very important to me.
 

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I change my oil every 5000 miles and have for years. Never had an oil-related problem.

The only exception was a turbo-charged car I had in the 90's where I went every 3000 miles, because you pretty much had to back then.

Chip H.
 

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I had one vehicle in which I changed the oil every 3000 miles and that was a Z-28. Everything else gets what the book recommends (which is usually ~7,500 with normal use. The ONLY oil related failure I've ever had was due to (as stated earlier in this thread) a cheap-o oil filter. A one-way valve inside the filter (on a sportbike) broke loose after only about two months and 600 miles of use. Oil flow was restricted and the motor blew up between my legs at ~120mph (thank God I have a quick clutch hand.) Lesson learned.

I've only run synthetic in my sportbikes. All of my passenger vehicles have gotten conventional. And I wasn't aware that newer RL's require 0W20. Strange.
 

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I had one vehicle in which I changed the oil every 3000 miles and that was a Z-28. Everything else gets what the book recommends (which is usually ~7,500 with normal use. The ONLY oil related failure I've ever had was due to (as stated earlier in this thread) a cheap-o oil filter. A one-way valve inside the filter (on a sportbike) broke loose after only about two months and 600 miles of use. Oil flow was restricted and the motor blew up between my legs at ~120mph (thank God I have a quick clutch hand.) Lesson learned.

I've only run synthetic in my sportbikes. All of my passenger vehicles have gotten conventional. And I wasn't aware that newer RL's require 0W20. Strange.
That quick clutch hand likely saved you from severe road rash or worse injury. Newer RL's don't require 0w20. It's simply recommended. They'll run just fine on 5w20 or even 5w30 for that matter. All of these weights of oil have the same properties when they're at full operating temperature. 0w20 simply flows better from a cold start, offers less resistance while the truck is warming up and typically yields better fuel mileage during this time. For those of us who drive short trips a few times a day, a 0w20 oil would be beneficial. I'm sticking with the 5w20 recommended by Honda on my '07 though. Fuel mileage is one of the least important things to me, so I'll stay with what the Honda engineers wanted me to use. Not a single drop has ever come from my truck nor have I ever burned any oil. Regular changes going by the MM and soft driving techniques have served me well over the last two decades of driving. I've always had strong, long-lasting engines even if nearly every other part had failed around it (in previous vehicles).
 

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I ran mobil1 5/20 and Purolator filters since new, Changed within 5% of the MM, Engine failed at 111000, My mini van which has 190000 miles which we use now as a local beater has dino oils since new and no probs, My brothers Dodge ram has 180000 and he changes the oil at the Quick stop garages and never ever kept any sort of schedule and his is running like the day he bought it.

So there you have it, My new engine will be run on Dino oil as the Mobil1 was a waste of money in my case....
 

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What was the cause of failure?

My Pilot has been on M1 since its first oil change. When I had the TB service and valve adjustment done last tear, the mechanic commented on how clean the engine was inside. That was in the low 120,000 mile range.
 

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What was the cause of failure?

My Pilot has been on M1 since its first oil change. When I had the TB service and valve adjustment done last tear, the mechanic commented on how clean the engine was inside. That was in the low 120,000 mile range.
Same as mine, Looks like new under the front rocker cover, Spotless...
 

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Did you ever discover what caused the failure?
 

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I'd be very interested to know what the cause of the failure was, too. It may not even be oil related at all. Cylinder #4 issue? Timing belt issue?
 

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I ran mobil1 5/20 and Purolator filters since new, Changed within 5% of the MM, Engine failed at 111000, My mini van which has 190000 miles which we use now as a local beater has dino oils since new and no probs, My brothers Dodge ram has 180000 and he changes the oil at the Quick stop garages and never ever kept any sort of schedule and his is running like the day he bought it.

So there you have it, My new engine will be run on Dino oil as the Mobil1 was a waste of money in my case....
A few of us on here would really like to know what happened to your engine. Could you give us a little more detail?
 
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