Howdy, and welcome to the ROC.
Regarding your gauge panel, I have recent experience with another model & year Honda.
If you aren't familiar with your dash, there is ample information of dash panel and gauge cluster removal.
Summary of what was recently learned:
The ODO memory is stored in/on the PCB to which the LCD is permanently attached. This means that if you were to source a used gauge panel configured as you like, the ODO will reflect the mileage of the donor vehicle. This is problematic for both resale and potential issues with government tracking. For example, vehicle miles are part and parcel of registration and EPA compliance records. If a gauge panel is replaced either increasing or decreasing ODO records, the owner would be subject to all manner of government entanglement. This, of course is specific to country/state/province/city/municipality law. In my case, I was deterred away from simply replacing the entire gauge cluster from another vehicle.
If you have a mind to swap out the speedo or other analog gauges, read on.
I would guess the ODO KM vs Miles is a SW setting on board the cluster PCB but I could be wrong - and you'll likely have to live with it as is. Honda has been pretty good at keeping proprietary SW secrets. But I'm only guessing.
I sourced the cheapest cluster with the one gauge I was after. Found it on ebay.
The design and assembly of Honda gauge panels is remarkably similar between mid 90's thru the Gen1 RL. I'm confident the info below is indicative of the RL gauge panel, but I have not absolutely confirmed it. If you are handy and a DIY guy, I would recommend taking the 30 minutes or so required to confirm gauges attach as indicated below.
This is the rear of an 01 Accord gauge cluster - consisting of 3 gauge faces/4 gauges. Each gauge is physically attached to a printed circuit board (PCB) directly behind the white cover. The PCB literally "floats" inside the main gauge housing, meaning once tabs are straightened as seen below, the only thing holding the PCB in place are male electrical posts fitted into female slots on the back of each gauge.
Detail of gauge tabs viewed thru the rear cover.
When freeing the PCB from each gauge, use caution and patience so as not to damage the board. I used a non-conductive nylon probe/pry stick to push the gauge out by using tab ears first, then pushing the rest of the way thru the center opening.
Once the gauges are free of the PCB, the gauges themselves are floating inside the main housing. They pop right out. Easy peasy.
These are suggestions only. Use at your own risk.
Best of luck
