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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I saw this thread- http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11371 and thought I'd do a quick back-of-envelope calculation on my cost to own/operate my 2006 Ridgeline RTS with 186,200 miles on it.

I acquired it used in December 2007 with 8800 miles on it. My Ridgeline was manufactured in January 2005 and put in service in March 2005. Obviously, the previous owner did not drive it much over the 30-some-odd months they owned it.

I have not had any major problems with mine. It still runs very well. I have done most all the repair/maintenance myself, except for struts, power steering rack and pinion replacement and upper/lower radiator hoses and Tstat.

Here's my quick numbers-

$30,000 (estimated purchase cost/financing)
$33,500 Fuel
$580 Oil Changes
$200 Transmission Fluid
$125 VTM Fluid
$2700 (3) Sets of tires
$750 (3) Struts
$1,000 Power Steering Rack
$165 Radiator hoses & Tstat
$500 Timing Belt, Serp Belt, Tensioner, Water Pump, Plugs, etc
$225 Air & Cabin Filters
$250 Wipers
$60 Wiper Fluid
$100 Brake Fluid
$500 Brakes/rotors/pads/etc
$350 Alignments/Rotate/Balance
$50 Misc repairs
$35 Serp Belt
$300 Headlights
$65 Misc Bulbs
$4400 Insurance

$72,920 Total


That's 41 cents a mile....which is pretty good. But beware, you won't get close to $.40/mile unless you keep a vehicle a looooong time and put some high mileage on it....AND have no major problems and you do most or all of the maintenance yourself....

Knock off 60k miles and add in a $3,000 repair and you're at $.52/mile.


I have been utterly shocked at the prices of new vehicles today. A new full-size pickup truck that is "loaded" is approaching $55,000. Put that number in my calcs, reduce the mileage to 125k and you've doubled the cost of owning and operating that vehicle.
 

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$775 for insurance over 6+ years? Sounds pretty low in my experience. I'd add about 2,000 to your number.

Very good.... and sobering info.
 

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$775 for insurance over 6+ years? Sounds pretty low in my experience. I'd add about 2,000 to your number.

Very good.... and sobering info.

Lol I think that is what mine is every 6 months! Yeah mine is like $708 every 6 months for full coverage. I'd love to only pay 775 in 6 years!


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Sorry, I must have hit the wrong key(s) on the calculator or been thinking about something else on the math for the insurance. Yeah, pretty much no matter what the value of the vehicle, I've been paying ~$600 a year for full coverage for a vehicle the last 10+ years. Funny how it's $50/mo when it's new and would cost $35k to replace and it's STILL $50/mo when it has 200k miles on it and it's not worth a dime. I edited my original post. Still has the cost around $.40/mile.

The last 6 of the VIN is 500969. Does that mean it's #969?

It has been a good vehicle to me. I've never put 180k miles on a vehicle and have never kept one more than 5 years. The most I've ever kept one is 5 years and 100k miles.

I AM ready for a new truck, but momma sez that ain't happening right now. I'm not to eager to shell out $50k for one, either. They can't be THAT good...
 

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The last 6 of the VIN is 500969. Does that mean it's #969?
Yes, but there were quite a few built that never made it for sale to the public. That's a very early unit built in the first couple of weeks of Ridgeline production. They went over each unit very carefully... those were some of the best ever built.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I can believe it. You can look at my maintenance/repairs and see that.

There are some 'problems' that I have yet to take care of, tho-

1. I did spend $300+ on replacing the factory radio with a $230 Kenwood touchscreen, SiruisXM receiver and Steering Wheel Controller. I ONLY did this because the factory radio had the famous backlight problem. If Honda would have said "yeah, we know that's a problem, we'll take care of it", I would have been over-joyed. They should have done that to everyone that has had the problem. Instead, they take the unit out and send it to ONE person in the US that knows the exact connection to re-solder, takes him 5 minutes and the charge is north of $200 for that fix... Stupid.

2. The venerable creaking/popping with the front end. I have had 3 different dealer service departments try to analyze this (no actual time/labor, just talking with the service MANAGERS) and none of them had the correct 'fix'. I believe it is the bushings on the sway bar / et al that need 're-greasing'. The parts changers wanted to do everything including struts (I did that, no-go), sway bar end links (I did that, too), ball joints, all sorts of parts-changing. I'm going to get the bushings lubed and see if that is it.

3. The Yaw Rate Sensor. Another known, kinda-sorta common problem. The wholesale cost of the part is about $500 (complete rip-off from Bosch), dealers want $1250+ to replace it. It's a simple fix that entails 6 entire minutes to remove the console panel at the rear, un-screw, un-plug, re-plug, re-screw, replace the panel and tell the customer it's fixed. Instead, a dealer wants $600 in labor for 6 minutes. I have yet to feel the effects of this failed part in over 100,000 miles, even through snow, ice and mud. This is another problem Honda should have taken care of.

I will be adding some costs to the above list soon. The driver's side seat is torn, foam is showing. I have 4 strips of duct tape that are 18" long on the driver's seat back to 'make do' until I order some seat covers from CoverKing. This is a typical wear and tear item. Seat covers = $250. Guaranteed fit, look great (I'm going with Mossy Oak Shadow Grass.

I will be needing a new set of tires in the next 10k miles. I will be putting my 4th replacement set of Michelin LTX M/S on. Cost will be about $900. This current set will only get me about 65k miles due to me not rotating them until about 35k miles. Completely my fault. I got 77,000 miles out of the last set.

I can tell there is some sort of problem that will soon come to a better light. Friday night I experienced a wailing/swooshing/wailing sound when applying the brakes and turning the wheel at the same time (i.e. slowing on a down-hill exit ramp that is curved off the interstate). Sounded like some sort of air pressure problem, I am thinking the master cylinder is going out. I need to get this looked at. I wouldn't mind a new master cylinder if the brake pressure improves...

Couple of other costs I forgot about above- I put a new windshield in about 3 months ago ($200), the sway bar end links ($70) and a few other things. One is a $500 deductible for a wreck. Not big costs in the grand scheme, but another grand or so...it all adds up.

I dearly want to keep this vehicle "forever", hopefully retiring it to 'farm duty' someday when we attain that magical 30 acres we keep dreaming about. I'd really like to put a set of Buckshot mud grips on it and see how it does in the mud. The performance of these vehicles in the snow and ice is impeccable. They are like tractors in my experience...and I'm not talking about a 2" Atlanta snowstorm....I'm talking 12" of fresh snow and packed snow/ice.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Oh....and I'm kinda sad to say that the two Hondas we have in the driveway today are most likely the last ones we will be buying (as primary vehicles) unless Honda makes some drastic changes. We have a 2007 Honda CR-V EX-L that has 80,000 miles on it and is in like-new condition. We haven't put a dime into repairs, only tires, brakes, oil changes, filters, wipers, rotate & balance, alignment, fuel and transmission fluid. It has been flawless.

Why am I NOT going to look at Honda for another? I will not be reliant upon one vehicle that can tow a 4,000lb trailer or one that can haul 4 people and luggage comfortably 500 miles. The CR-V is primarily an Urban assault vehicle and will fill the suburban housewife needs. It is not a decent traveling machine. It's noisy, the handling is poor at high speeds and on low-sloped curves and the new ones are having some stupid reports of dealers not being able to fix those crazy problems seen in a minor number of vehicles.

Honda really needs to consider getting into the rear-wheel drive family vehicle market. Their drive trains are exceptional today, their traction control systems are great IME, and overall durability of their vehicles exceeds Ford & GM (I don't even consider Chrysler and will never consider GM any longer). That leaves me with looking at Ford and Toyota. I'd prefer a Honda, but they don't make anything to compare to what Toyota and Ford offer for a full-size family vehicle.
 

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thooks said:
Oh...... CR-V ... new ones are having some stupid reports of dealers not being able to fix those crazy problems seen in a minor number of vehicles.....
yup, confirmed.

TPMS illuminates for no apparent reason, reset, light is back immediately or next hour or next day.

VTC Actuator rattles at startup, very noisy, first start of the day, hot or cold.

Battery suddenly drained, car and battery both under 6 months age.

There's more...... that's just the quick list found in several of ours...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I dunno... it's like you're describing a Ridgeline there.

I don't think so. I've towed 4-5,000 lbs with my Ridgeline several times and have no desire to do it again if I can help it.

What people don't realize is the "MAX Tow rating by a manufacturer is a GUIDELINE for safe towing...meaning you really shouldn't exceed 50% of the max towing rating. With a full-frame, full-size truck, maybe 65% of the max rating. The new F150's are rated for 10-12k lbs, I wouldn't regularly tow anything behind a new F150 that weighed more than 5-6,000 lbs. More than 6,000 lbs and you really need to be moving that with a 3/4 ton or higher truck.

And as far as moving 4 adults and their luggage, the Ridgeline still can't do that without some sort of cover on the bed. You can get 2 decent sized suit cases in the trunk. 3 girlie-sized.

Don't get me wrong, I have thoroughly enjoyed my Ridgeline. I could go buy whatever I wanted to at lunch. I've got other priorities, so as long as this thing isn't knocking $500/mo out of my pocket for repairs, I am going to live with it a little longer as a daily driver.
 

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Interesting, by 180,000 miles the cost of gasoline was greater than the purchase price of the Ridgeline. :act018:

Edit I'm paying ~$280 per 6 months for full coverage ($250 deductible) on my Ridgeline, about the same as my 2010 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited.
 

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I don't think so. I've towed 4-5,000 lbs with my Ridgeline several times and have no desire to do it again if I can help it.

What people don't realize is the "MAX Tow rating by a manufacturer is a GUIDELINE for safe towing...meaning you really shouldn't exceed 50% of the max towing rating. With a full-frame, full-size truck, maybe 65% of the max rating. The new F150's are rated for 10-12k lbs, I wouldn't regularly tow anything behind a new F150 that weighed more than 5-6,000 lbs. More than 6,000 lbs and you really need to be moving that with a 3/4 ton or higher truck.

And as far as moving 4 adults and their luggage, the Ridgeline still can't do that without some sort of cover on the bed. You can get 2 decent sized suit cases in the trunk. 3 girlie-sized.

Don't get me wrong, I have thoroughly enjoyed my Ridgeline. I could go buy whatever I wanted to at lunch. I've got other priorities, so as long as this thing isn't knocking $500/mo out of my pocket for repairs, I am going to live with it a little longer as a daily driver.
Ahhhh... got it. I was confused bc I thought you were refering to the RL as the vehicle that you'd tow 4,000 pounds with and the CR-V as the travel vehicle.

I was just thinking the RL does both bc I've towed 4,000+ a few times and travelled with the RL as well. That trunk is absolutely huge. Plus I've gone camping with it, it's really the perfect vehicle for that (and this is where my head was - anything that can be exposed to the elements stayed in the bed.
 

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....That leaves me with looking at Ford and Toyota. I'd prefer a Honda, but they don't make anything to compare to what Toyota and Ford offer for a full-size family vehicle.
Hahahahahaha... I believe you'll come running back to Honda after trying out a Ford or a Toyota.
 

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I just bumped into this thread. I've been keeping a similar tally, except I'm not counting tires, insurance, or fuel (figuring any vehicle I purchase at this point in time is going to need all of those and the difference will be inconsequential.

Model Year 2006 purchased in 2010 with 89,000 miles on it. Today it has 242,000.
Total dollars in (purchase + repairs): $26,500
Mileage accumulated: 153,000
Cost / mile (remember no gas, insurance or tires): $.41

I'm probably going to be running this another 2-3 years and into another set of tires. But will likely move on before or at 300k. Will be interested to see where the final numbers are.


Major activities below.

ActivityDatePriceMileage
Purchase6/24/10$16,200.0089000
Wheel bearing9/23/10$250.0093500
Timing Belt / H2O Pump / Tcase change1/19/11$1,400.00100985
Finish Timing Belt Svc2/1/11$475.00102255
Valve Clearance10/30/12$475.00135920
Door Lock Assy6/22/12$59.00
Radiator Diagnostics8/22/14$115.00171000
Radiator (non Honda brand)12/15/14$700.00174642
Brakes5/21/15$150.00178855
Shocks/CV Boots /TPMS4/14/16$1,525.00187893
TPMS11/2016$300.00193071
Timing Belt / H2O Pump / Plug seals4/13/17$1,883.00200199
O2 Sensor2019$500.00231000
Brakes6/30/2018$1,000.00225000
Struts2019$1,500.00242000




I saw this thread- http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11371 and thought I'd do a quick back-of-envelope calculation on my cost to own/operate my 2006 Ridgeline RTS with 186,200 miles on it.

I acquired it used in December 2007 with 8800 miles on it. My Ridgeline was manufactured in January 2005 and put in service in March 2005. Obviously, the previous owner did not drive it much over the 30-some-odd months they owned it.

I have not had any major problems with mine. It still runs very well. I have done most all the repair/maintenance myself, except for struts, power steering rack and pinion replacement and upper/lower radiator hoses and Tstat.

Here's my quick numbers-

$30,000 (estimated purchase cost/financing)
$33,500 Fuel
$580 Oil Changes
$200 Transmission Fluid
$125 VTM Fluid
$2700 (3) Sets of tires
$750 (3) Struts
$1,000 Power Steering Rack
$165 Radiator hoses & Tstat
$500 Timing Belt, Serp Belt, Tensioner, Water Pump, Plugs, etc
$225 Air & Cabin Filters
$250 Wipers
$60 Wiper Fluid
$100 Brake Fluid
$500 Brakes/rotors/pads/etc
$350 Alignments/Rotate/Balance
$50 Misc repairs
$35 Serp Belt
$300 Headlights
$65 Misc Bulbs
$4400 Insurance

$72,920 Total


That's 41 cents a mile....which is pretty good. But beware, you won't get close to $.40/mile unless you keep a vehicle a looooong time and put some high mileage on it....AND have no major problems and you do most or all of the maintenance yourself....

Knock off 60k miles and add in a $3,000 repair and you're at $.52/mile.


I have been utterly shocked at the prices of new vehicles today. A new full-size pickup truck that is "loaded" is approaching $55,000. Put that number in my calcs, reduce the mileage to 125k and you've doubled the cost of owning and operating that vehicle.
 
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