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Does anyone know the easiest way to replace daytime running light bulbs?

Thank you ahead time of your assistance.

Sincerely,
Mike
 

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Which model are you referring to?

The 2006-2008 US Ridgeline didn't have DRLs. The 2006-2008 Canadian Ridgeline used the high beam headlights as DRLs. All 2009-2014 models had separate DRLs on the lower bumper.
 

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Which model are you referring to?

The 2006-2008 US Ridgeline didn't have DRLs. The 2006-2008 Canadian Ridgeline used the high beam headlights as DRLs. All 2009-2014 models had separate DRLs on the lower bumper.
I installed led headlights on my canadian 2007 and they flicker. Does any one know if they vary the voltage to the high beam to use for daytime running lights?
wiring diagram?? I read that some are saying the headlights are in series, but i measured 12vdc
 

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As you may have known, the DRLs are regular bulbs, but under-driven due to a lower voltage in the circuit that makes them dim and 'DRL' allowable.
Since you replaced them with LED bulbs that were NOT meant to run under 9 Volts (probably, check the product specs), they will flicker and possibly die soon.

Nothing is wrong with your circuits, your LED bulbs don't belong there.
 

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I installed led headlights on my canadian 2007 and they flicker. Does any one know if they vary the voltage to the high beam to use for daytime running lights?
wiring diagram?? I read that some are saying the headlights are in series, but i measured 12vdc
In this application, the DRL's operate the high beam filaments in series instead of using PWM.

anyone have a schematic?
https://www.autozone.com/repairguides/Ridgeline-2007-2008/Exterior-Lights-2007/Exterior-Lights-2007/_/P-0996b43f80e64bdb
 

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I'm revisiting this because I need new fog light bulbs & possibly new DRL bulbs. Some drunken numnutz crashed into my truck last October & busted the driver said headlight, bumper, hood, fender, inner fender, tire, & fog light. Unfortunately, the guy I took it to for repair was a hack. DRL constantly has an error, the fender liner wasn't secured so it tore & water got in to the fog lamp. He also didn't secure the tie rod, which I noticed almost immediately after I started driving away (but the dude had closed shop & split & wouldn't answer my calls). I talked to the guy who recommended him to me & he said he could fix things, but I think he will charge for it. So, I need to know how to fix the error saying DRL are not working (Honda dealership said something about the wiring harness but refused to touch it bc insurance wouldn't cover it). I think you can access the DRLs from under the hood, but the Honda dealer said something about pulling the bumper for the wiring harness. I believe the fog lamp can be accessed from behind the fender liner. I'm currently trying to figure out what the part numbers are for the lights. I found a website that listed the following: DRL is 9005, fog light is H11, main headlight is 9003, turn signal bulbs 3157. But I get conflicting info on oreillys, autozone, & amazon.
This one says it is a headlight not fog light: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H6NZ7D8/ref=psdc_15736451_t2_B07SH4J2YH but I'm wondering if its any good. I'm trying to find something with a good warranty. Most of them have no warranty listed or only 1yr. This one looks like it has 3yrs.
Are there any full kits that have all of the front lights so I can just upgrade them all at once?
Any recommendations?
 

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Has anyone changed the DRL lights? I think mine went bad as I get the DRL warning on the control panel, please let me know if they are easy to change or if I have to take all the bumper off.
 

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Has anyone changed the DRL lights? I think mine went bad as I get the DRL warning on the control panel, please let me know if they are easy to change or if I have to take all the bumper off.
You can remove the screws and clips on the bottom of the wheel well liner and the one that holds it to the bumper (@ the 3 O'clock on pass side and the 9 O'Clock on DR side) and access the bulb that way. I am still on OEM bulbs for the last 230K+ miles. Ensure that you only blew out the bulb, and the wiring is intact.
 

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You can remove the screws and clips on the bottom of the wheel well liner and the one that holds it to the bumper (@ the 3 O'clock on pass side and the 9 O'Clock on DR side) and access the bulb that way. I am still on OEM bulbs for the last 230K+ miles. Ensure that you only blew out the bulb, and the wiring is intact.
Thank you very much
 

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DRL's are wired in series? What a stupid, stupid idea....WHY would Honda engineer such a configuration?
And the access to them is just as BAD a design. Those screws down low on the front bumper get all kinds of weather and road debris causing them to rust up, freeze up and they will NOT come out easily. Then you have to reach blindly up in the void area to get to the bulb itself. What a JOY to do the one on the passenger side, with the windshield fluid resevoir right there in the way. BEAUTIFUL !!
 

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DRL's are wired in series? What a stupid, stupid idea....WHY would Honda engineer such a configuration?
Series wiring is a simple, effective, and inexpensive method for operating lamps at reduced intensity because there's no need for resistors, power transistors, or special bulbs. Series wiring is also used to operate the cooling fans on low speed in the vast majority of automobiles made in the last few decades.
 

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TRUE....but why would you want to run DIM DRL's in the first place. Isn't the very idea of having them, to make yourself more visible to other drivers on the road, and possibly reduce your risk of accidents?
I had to purchase a wiring kit from iJDMTOY which was supposed to get the LED's to work properly in the DRL locations instead of using halogen bulbs. This kit was recommended and used by others on this site saying it fixed their issues with getting the DRL lamp on the dashboard. OK.
I spent most of the afternoon trying to install the kit with the LED lamps I purchased.
A) the wiring harness iJDMTOY provides isn't long enough to reach to both DRL locations....its about 18" short...
B) the configuration they recommend (using dummy load resistors) didn't work for me. I had to alter their config...
C) the routing of the cable between the DRL's is not simple and obvious, you have to choose a path as best you can..

Someone has posted the iJDMTOY wiring configuration on this Forum, but I can't locate it just now. I'll try to describe how I wired mine up to get them to work....the kit comes with a wire harness which has 4 connectors, and 2 resistors (50W at 6 Ohms each).
1. I plugged one of the resistors into the Driver side Ridgeline wiring harness connector per iJDMTOY diagram.
2. I plugged the iJDMTOY wiring harness into the Passenger side Ridgeline wiring harness connector per their diagram.
3. I plugged one of the LED DRL's into the short length wiring harness connector on the Passenger side.
4. I plugged the other LED DRL into the long length wiring harness connector to be routed to the Driver side.
5. This leaves an unused connector on the Passenger side, short length wiring harness. I capped it off and covered it with electrical tape to keep moisture out. (iJDMTOY diagram shows another resistor plugged in here, but that didn't work for me.)
I started the vehicle up and both LED's were lit up and working properly. I measured the voltage at each bulb and it was about 9.6 vdc.
With both resistors plugged in per iJDMTOY diagram, neither LED lit up. With both resistors unplugged from the harness, neither LED lit up.
With only one LED installed on the harness, it would light up.
The last problem was having to cut the iJDMTOY harness and lengthen it by 18" to get it to reach to the other side of the truck. DONE !!
Hopefully this will help someone else in the future, and remind me of how this all went together when I forget about it day after tomorrow ...😆
 

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DRLs have a minimum lumen output, to pass as DRLs. There are many vehicles that run their highbeams in the similar fashion as our DRLs to function as daytime running lights. Additionally, the housings that are designed as DRLs are not designed to throw light on the ground in any productive way; imagine them (in the G1) as being flood lights.

Retrofitting a DRL housing with a bulb at its full power is stupid and dangerous. There are many idiots out there using the same concept as you mentioned in their DRL and are blinding even in broad daylight, as they run either HIDs or LED bulbs in them. Same goes for the idiots who run HIDs or non-fog LEDs in their Fog light housing. Just pure reckless.
 
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