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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
“It’s all I can stands….and I can’t stands no more!” – Popeye

Yep, I uttered those words last weekend. Even with the upgraded Tweeters (Black Edition Tweeter upgrade) to my RTL-T the system was STILL giving me an odd ear pain when I listened at moderate volumes.

After working with a car audio pro we built a system that ROCKS, SMOKES and JAMS! HOLY COW. I am in love with my Ridgeline all over again!

Components:
1. Audison Prima 6.5” speakers (and tweeter) for ONLY the front.
2. JL Audio XD400 amp (powers ONLY front two speakers and SUB)
3. JL Audio Fix 82 Sound processor (RADICAL Upgrade)
4. JL Audio CP108 Sub http://www.jlaudio.com/cp108lg-w3v3-car-audio-microsub-subwoofer-systems-93133
5. Front door deadening kit

Things they did:
1. disable the ANC from the glove box.
2. Put the sound processor behind the OEM head unit and ran a USB cable to my glove box
3. Put this nifty sub below the rear passenger side (Fits like it was designed for this spot!)
4. Put the new amp under the driver’s seat
5. Power the rear speakers with the head unit
6. Deadened the front doors (wow, what a difference!)
7. Ran a remote knob for sub volume control.

JL Audio’s Fix 82 gets the audio FROM the head unit, analyzes it and flattens it out. IF you hook a laptop to it via USB you can see the OEM curve AND tweak to your hearts content with a fully graphic EQ (10 bands I think). Guys and Gals, when I saw the OEM curve my jaw hit the floor. ALL the frequencies were maxed except for a dip somewhere around 100 hz and a roll off after 60 hz. All else was goosed to its max! THIS is with the treble and bass controls set at Null (center). So right out of the gate the OEM is whacked. With this processor flattening out the sound and passing it on to the JL Audio amp, I have a smoking system!

I was VERY cautious about not having control over the sub. I did not want the amp sending 100% to the sub at all times. Lucky for me this amp has a companion remote knob. The knob was mounted up under the driver’s dash. Out of sight but easily reachable. This is HUGE! I can turn the volume from 0 to 100%. This is important if I don’t want to rattle the bootie of a passenger!
The sound deadening was quite revealing. The installer told me to strike the rear door with my finger hard. I heard a hollow sound. Very resonant. He then told me to hit the front door. A quiet and quick thump! He quipped “You will probably be back in the future to deaden the rear speakers”. This helps focus the sound and eliminates road noise too.
With the ANC disconnected I noticed no change in road noise, fyi.

THIS system, is audiophile quality! The highs sing with no shrillness or pain, the mids fill in where they should and this sub gives punch and bottom without being some ambiguous and non-focused. It turns kick drums into Cannons!

This upgrade is remarkable! Knowing that if I decide I need less highs….I can just plug in my Surface Pro and tweak to my heart’s content…..is just poetry!
I am less than 24 hours from our 10-hour drive to the ******* Rivera and NOW I will have a sound system that I will ENJOY all the way down to Destin!
Oh, a note about the volume. In my T, I’d often have to be at 20 tics on the volume scale (OEM Head unit measure). Now when I am at 20, everything around me is vibrating! LOUD LOUD LOUD!
Posting this for those considering an upgrade and want to see where others before them have done.
Disclaimer: I won’t call myself an ‘audiophile’ but I am a recording/mixing engineer and own a recording studio. So, sound is VERY important to me. I listen to things differently than most folks do. The OEM sound just sucked and painful to proof mixes on. What I have now is studio quality sound!

Denicio
 

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"Sounds" like a winner !

So, that "hollow" door sound explanation means a lot. That explains why there is a lot of vibration coming from the door panels on some vehicles. That means when the sound system is playing there are harmonic vibrations kicking in. So, by adding deadening to it then it eliminates those problems. I'm going to have to try the tap trick on mine too now that you've talked about it.

Very informative ! Thanks for sharing. And if you don't mind mentioning the cost of the upgrade please do so in "round numbers" . It would be interesting to hear what it cost to get a usable audio system.

Steve
 

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"Sounds" like a winner !

So, that "hollow" door sound explanation means a lot. That explains why there is a lot of vibration coming from the door panels on some vehicles. That means when the sound system is playing there are harmonic vibrations kicking in. So, by adding deadening to it then it eliminates those problems. I'm going to have to try the tap trick on mine too now that you've talked about it.

Very informative ! Thanks for sharing. And if you don't mind mentioning the cost of the upgrade please do so in "round numbers" . It would be interesting to hear what it cost to get a usable audio system.

Steve
Labor, ALL parts and cables it landed 2400.00 including tax. (TN Tax 9.75%)

I did not get charged retail prices on any of the components. SOME of these car stereo places will hit you with retail + 10%. This place was consistently lower than retail without me having to haggle.

The door dampening kit cost 119.00 installed, for instance.

Denicio

Initially they were planning on using the OEM sub. Just powering it with the new amp.

A. I didnt know the power rating or any details about the OEM sub.
B. There is virtually NO enclosure for the OEM sub to do its thing.

So, i'd probably end up blowing the OEM sub.

So, at the last minute i made the executive decision to add the JL audio sub. When i say it fits there like it was designed for that spot.....i cant be more serious. It fits in there behind that plastic rail like Honda designed the sub for JL for the Ridgeline. Could not be more perfect! The thing that totally sealed the deal was when the install guy told me about the remote volume knob. BAM, instant decision.

The reviews for the sub on line were nothing short than stellar. You can now add my voice to the choir of praises for that sub. It's 18" wide so it only fills up the short seat area below the rear seats. I still have a TON of storage area in the rear seats behind the driver side! That sub is built at the factory and comes with a metal grill cover!

D
 

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Initially they were planning on using the OEM sub. Just powering it with the new amp.

A. I didnt know the power rating or any details about the OEM sub.
B. There is virtually NO enclosure for the OEM sub to do its thing.

So, i'd probably end up blowing the OEM sub.

So, at the last minute i made the executive decision to add the JL audio sub. When i say it fits there like it was designed for that spot.....i cant be more serious. It fits in there behind that plastic rail like Honda designed the sub for JL for the Ridgeline. Could not be more perfect! The thing that totally sealed the deal was when the install guy told me about the remote volume knob. BAM, instant decision.

The reviews for the sub on line were nothing short than stellar. You can now add my voice to the choir of praises for that sub. It's 18" wide so it only fills up the short seat area below the rear seats. I still have a TON of storage area in the rear seats behind the driver side! That sub is built at the factory and comes with a metal grill cover!

D
That system sounds pretty impressive!! I want pics, but I figure the $400 surcharge by photobucket will probably limit the number of pictures in posts for awhile.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
That system sounds pretty impressive!! I want pics, but I figure the $400 surcharge by photobucket will probably limit the number of pictures in posts for awhile.
The only thing i can take a picture of is the Sub. All else is hidden from view. This upgrade is like many items in my studio...you spend an exorbitant amount of money and dont get many knobs and VU meters dancing around.

But it DOES make me wanna get up and boogie....OR channel my inner Bevis & Butthead when i am rocking out!

It NOW has MORE power than i can possibly ever need. Enough to do real hearing damage....so i gotta watch out for that.

D
 

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Labor, ALL parts and cables it landed 2400.00 including tax. (TN Tax 9.75%)

I did not get charged retail prices on any of the components. SOME of these car stereo places will hit you with retail + 10%. This place was consistently lower than retail without me having to haggle.

The door dampening kit cost 119.00 installed, for instance.

Denicio
WOW, that's some serious coin, but I think your being quite humble regarding your "audiophile" status, BRUH, you have your own recording studio! LMAO.:act024:
Recommendation: Get some matching 6.5in 2-ways put into your rear doors with some more noise damping material, it's worth it for only another $300 or so...or better yet, ALL the hard work is already done for you (amp,power,line out), so make it a weekend project and DIY and save a Benjamin.
 

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Congratulations on your upgrade!

I love my truck, but I HATE the sound of the stereo. I've stopped listening to music as every track sounds off...highs hurt my ears and the bass is way too pronounced , even in songs with littkw bass line and it at -7

I can't afford your whole new kit, but if you were to recommend any replacements to start with where would you start?

And where is the sub located? I almost want to tear it out

2017 Sport

Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk
 

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Cool, but I don't want to haul around a box in the back, I'd rather reserve the space for stuff. Is there any place to install an effective hidden sub. I have the Sport edition and the OEM stereo is absolutely rubbish, but I noticed there is a control setting for subwoofer. Do some models have an OEM sub? And has anyone been able to prevent the stereo from automatically starting Pandora? It opens the U2 album with the two guys making out on the cover. I don't even have a U2 channel in Pandora.
 

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Cool, but I don't want to haul around a box in the back, I'd rather reserve the space for stuff. Is there any place to install an effective hidden sub. I have the Sport edition and the OEM stereo is absolutely rubbish, but I noticed there is a control setting for subwoofer. Do some models have an OEM sub? And has anyone been able to prevent the stereo from automatically starting Pandora? It opens the U2 album with the two guys making out on the cover. I don't even have a U2 channel in Pandora.
The -E and BE have an OEM sub. Not sure about your pandora issue, never had that pop on mine lol.
 

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This (or a similar speaker mod) is high on my list of to-dos. Something about the sound in my BE is driving me crazy. I have it so metal/rock/industrial sounds pretty good, but rap/EDM/r&b is too high and the bass is too.. hollow? (Obviously I have a wide range in music tastes.) I need a setup that allows for equalizer presets.

Thanks for the write up! I'm going to let this be my inspiration for fixing my own sound issues.
 
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Cool, but I don't want to haul around a box in the back, I'd rather reserve the space for stuff. Is there any place to install an effective hidden sub. I have the Sport edition and the OEM stereo is absolutely rubbish, but I noticed there is a control setting for subwoofer. Do some models have an OEM sub? And has anyone been able to prevent the stereo from automatically starting Pandora? It opens the U2 album with the two guys making out on the cover. I don't even have a U2 channel in Pandora.
I'm not sure the Sport edition has a subwoofer? I believe that is only for the touchscreen radio in the RTL-T and above, but I could be wrong....But, under the seats there seems to be plenty of room for an 8" low profile powered subwoofer. Id stay away from the $150 ones though, as they wont make too much of a difference- I tried this before I moved to the JL Audio. My HU seems a bit flakey too, whenever someone sends me a text, I get same text displayed from a guy, from a year + half ago that I don't even talk too and it displays IGNORE or CALL BACK, wtf?

It's infuriating....
 

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Cool, but I don't want to haul around a box in the back, I'd rather reserve the space for stuff. Is there any place to install an effective hidden sub. I have the Sport edition and the OEM stereo is absolutely rubbish, but I noticed there is a control setting for subwoofer. Do some models have an OEM sub? And has anyone been able to prevent the stereo from automatically starting Pandora? It opens the U2 album with the two guys making out on the cover. I don't even have a U2 channel in Pandora.
You must have an iPhone. I think iphone 6 and newer all came loaded with an U2 album. I have noticed that if you leave your BT on your RL it will start playing automatically, normally what is in your phone library. I think it finds music from that's stored on your phone before it can start and load pandora and that's why it starts playing U2 for you. Delete U2 from your phone's library.
 

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Cool, but I don't want to haul around a box in the back, I'd rather reserve the space for stuff. Is there any place to install an effective hidden sub. I have the Sport edition and the OEM stereo is absolutely rubbish, but I noticed there is a control setting for subwoofer. Do some models have an OEM sub? And has anyone been able to prevent the stereo from automatically starting Pandora? It opens the U2 album with the two guys making out on the cover. I don't even have a U2 channel in Pandora.
You must have an iPhone. I think iphone 6 and newer all came loaded with an U2 album. I have noticed that if you leave your BT on your RL it will start playing automatically, normally what is in your phone library. I think it finds music from that's stored on your phone before it can start and load pandora and that's why it starts playing U2 for you. Delete U2 from your phone's library.
If @Cronick is correct, the Apple SOI was a total fiasco and there is a removal tool, Apple : Songs of Innocence REMOVAL TOOL

If not, well, your going to have to do some research on Pandora, as I'm not that familiar with it, or that aspect of the G2.

Now, back the the Awesome system by @Denicio, and enough of this "thread jacking"

@Denicio, maybe there is nothing you can show, but maybe you could provide a "recording" for the rest of us to check out. ;)
 

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Congratulations on your upgrade!

I love my truck, but I HATE the sound of the stereo. I've stopped listening to music as every track sounds off...highs hurt my ears and the bass is way too pronounced , even in songs with littkw bass line and it at -7

I can't afford your whole new kit, but if you were to recommend any replacements to start with where would you start?

And where is the sub located? I almost want to tear it out

2017 Sport

Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk
The wife thought i was NUTS for saying the highs hurt my ears. I could not have been MORE serious.
I personally would start with the front speakers. I think the combo of the OEM Pillar Tweeters and door speakers are a huge part of the problem...utter junk!
I had a very hard hard hard hard hard time justifying the voodoo of the processor. Did i mention how hoard it was? The Skeptic in me said it was placebo nonsense as a way to sell me something i just did not need. NOTHING could have been further from the truth. The wiz kids at Honda have put an EQ curve so bogus, so non musical, so so.....embarrassing that i was shocked at what i saw when i saw it charted on the processors interface on my laptop.

I have spent a week on vacation with this stereo upgrade. Ten hour each way to the beach and a week of driving around. I LOVE LOVE LOVE this system. I love my RL all over again! Yes it was a TON of $ but its now something i no longer fret. The decision to bypass the OEM sub and get the micro sub was the best decision in this upgrade. I have a perfectly balanced system now and its a joy to listen to music. I can now turn on Bohemian Rhapsody and rock out doing my best Wayne and Garth!

D

Cool, but I don't want to haul around a box in the back, I'd rather reserve the space for stuff. Is there any place to install an effective hidden sub. I have the Sport edition and the OEM stereo is absolutely rubbish, but I noticed there is a control setting for subwoofer. Do some models have an OEM sub? And has anyone been able to prevent the stereo from automatically starting Pandora? It opens the U2 album with the two guys making out on the cover. I don't even have a U2 channel in Pandora.
This TOO was a concern of mine. I didnt want to loose any storage room. LUCKY for me this micro sub ONLY takes up the space under the rear passenger seat. Its not one of those gigantic subs although it sounds like one. MASSIVE and TIGHT bottom comes from that sub. I'd suggest looking at one like i got. I will try and take a picture of it today and post it up (with the seats up).

I am not missing the 18" or so that it took up. I still have the length of the long back seat for storage.

TIP (for the non Audio Nerds): Low Frequencies DONT CARE where they emit from. Low frequencies go wherever they want, so placement is not that big of a deal. It does not have to be centered in the truck for the sub to do its job.

If @Cronick is correct, the Apple SOI was a total fiasco and there is a removal tool, Apple : Songs of Innocence REMOVAL TOOL

If not, well, your going to have to do some research on Pandora, as I'm not that familiar with it, or that aspect of the G2.

Now, back the the Awesome system by @Denicio, and enough of this "thread jacking"

@Denicio, maybe there is nothing you can show, but maybe you could provide a "recording" for the rest of us to check out. ;)
"Recording"? Well, a picture with my big sh*t eating grin is about all i can muster!!! HA! Seriously, 95% of this upgrade is stuff i cant see...but i CAN hear it....and what i hear...is audio bliss.

Music sounds better, tighter, thumpier, punchier, clearer. Phone calls sound MUCH more improved...and now when that Nav Voice comes in she is NOT whispering to me....She's yelling at me like a good woman navigator should!!!

I am here to tell you this upgrade is the bomb! Money well spent.
 

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Gaw now I want it even more...

Thanks for sharing!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Here are images of my sub. Sorry for the sideways orientation. What i LOVE about this powerful sub is that when the seats are both down, its NOT on full display. I have walked through many parking lots where folks are showing off their equipment...which in Memphis is a request for a broken window. With my seats down my sub is hidden from view!
 

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Hey Denicio, thanks for the write up and details on your system!

Those sub pics look like an 8" micro sub. (Found some marketing labels it as power wedge as well)

Fits perfect there! Has me thinking about dropping in a JL micro sub+ if I can find a deal
 

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We stopped by our (only) local audio specialty shop and they are "researching a solution."

My priority is with equalization without having to replace the stereo. I'm sure we'll end up replacing most everything as you have.

I can't get over how irritating this issue is for me. I've owned several Hondas wirh premium sound and it's always been fine. I spent a pretty penny on this truck, and the sound was one of my reasons, and it's so bad I'm willing to replace it all? Bummer.
 
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We stopped by our (only) local audio specialty shop and they are "researching a solution."

My priority is with equalization without having to replace the stereo. I'm sure we'll end up replacing most everything as you have.

I can't get over how irritating this issue is for me. I've owned several Hondas wirh premium sound and it's always been fine. I spent a pretty penny on this truck, and the sound was one of my reasons, and it's so bad I'm willing to replace it all? Bummer.
If you have the 8" Touch screen head unit you wont have to replace it 'all'. You will need to get one of the processors i mentioned to flatten out the sound. The one i got allowed for the USB computer interface so Tech's and I could see what the head unit was sending (which was an insane eq curve, btw). The head when set to NULL position on all sliders (middle) the eq is greatly exaggerated. The JL audio processor takes the signal the head unit is barfing out, flattens it out and gives you what appears to be a 10 band graphic eq for both the left and right speakers.

Once i saw the EQ curve the OEM head unit was sending i was like "NO WONDER my ears fooking hurt!!!!!". I'm an audio nerd so i can look at EQ's and with my eyes recognize whats going on with the sound off. Over the next few days i will try and find some time to plug in my Surface Pro and run the diagnostic software and take a screen shot of it.

I personally liked the OEM head units functionality. Car play works well for my needs and the rest of the stuff is good. So i looked at tweaking the rest of the system and it worked....REALLY WELL!

You can do my upgrade without the sub but for the extra 299.00 you get a punchy and tight low end that makes listening to music that much more enjoyable. I dont need that 'ghetto low' that announces my arrival by way of 60hz (hear me minutes before you see me). I dont listen to RAP. I'm a rock guy and modern rock albums have kick drums that should sound like cannons. The Original OEM unit NEVER delivered in any meaningful way on the low end. Not sure what the BLACK trim level delivers but if its using the same factory sub my T is using, it aint much.

Here is a nerdy video demoing the FREE JL Software that works with the processor.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hjgt1azMzV0

This will show you how important that sound processor truly is. Again, i was 1000% skeptical about investing in one. Now i am a fan of it! (as you can tell).

More video here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E2hfAxI26kI

Video showing the EXACT unit (Fix 82) that i have while hooked up to the computer interface.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sqqHnrOVPjk
 
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