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Discussion Starter #1
In the year I've had the truck, me wife and friends and I have gone on a few backwoods road trips to trail heads, many of which are off road. This summer I noticed a need for more lighting on our way to the Sawtooth wilderness in Idaho, as numerous deer and elk were about and I was forced to going 25mph.

Since that drive, I've been wanting some ditch lighting. After tons of looking, I saw there was no brackets for such lighting....so I made some! Thought I'd share...enjoy
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Lights come in a few days. I will be using KC Hilites C3 pods.

More to come as soon as I have more to update with.
 

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That's pretty snazzy! Good job! What kind of light will you go with?

*hopefully you have enough room where the light attaches, so that it won't hit the windshield when the hood is open.


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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
That's pretty snazzy! Good job! What kind of light will you go with?

*hopefully you have enough room where the light attaches, so that it won't hit the windshield when the hood is open.


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KC Hilites C3 pods

I've al
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I've already accounted for the light housing and opening the hood, there shouldn't be any issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
KC sent just a generic switch...I'm going to loose install it inside the cab until I get all the lighting done, then figure out a permanent place to mount a panel
 

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Discussion Starter #8
All wired and running great. Went for a night test drive, and they really add good flood lighting towards the sides, no complaints at all. The wiring harness is extremely high quality.

Glad I did this. Only cost about 10 dollars for the steel and 144 for the lights shipped.

Lights clear touching the windshield to a certain extent. When the hood prop is holding the hood open they clear completely...but tilt it back another 30 degrees and they contact, I'm not worried about it though. Clear the windshield wipers also, absolutely no issues as of now.

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)

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Discussion Starter #13
This is great!! How did you make it, and can you post the flat pattern dimensions?
Its made from 10g steel, cut with an angle grinder for the shape, using a metal bit on the mounting holes, and a metal bit and dremel on the slot to mount the light. Then just a spray can of bedliner for the coating.

I have the rough template i made from cardboard, i can try and get it scanned or something.

There is a vibration while driving, its really not very noticeable. I might redo these and weld a few pieces to stiffen them up a bit.
 

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That is awesome bud!!
It is very seldom that I use my Hella Fogs and honestly, I have not used it in almost 2.5 years. The vibrations, as you mentioned, of the lights, kills the joy.
Aside from the tricky wire routing, any reason why you did not want to mount it on the basket you have up top? Or to the roof rack? I would imagine it would be a bit more rigid up there.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
That is awesome bud!!
It is very seldom that I use my Hella Fogs and honestly, I have not used it in almost 2.5 years. The vibrations, as you mentioned, of the lights, kills the joy.
Aside from the tricky wire routing, any reason why you did not want to mount it on the basket you have up top? Or to the roof rack? I would imagine it would be a bit more rigid up there.
I have other plans for lighting up top. I wanted these mounted here to light up the area off to the side (hence the name ditch lights). Up top I have plans to mount a light that will light up further past what the headlights reach. I also am thinking of putting something behind the lower grill.

This next week off I'm going to remake these in thicker steel, I'm thinking 3/16 304. I think that will take care of the vibration, plus add some corrosion protection.

I posted these on the facebook group, there was mild interest from others wanting me to make them a set. If I got a group of maybe 10 people, I would consider it, but I would need that many to make it worth the time it takes.
 

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I have other plans for lighting up top. I wanted these mounted here to light up the area off to the side (hence the name ditch lights). Up top I have plans to mount a light that will light up further past what the headlights reach. I also am thinking of putting something behind the lower grill.

This next week off I'm going to remake these in thicker steel, I'm thinking 3/16 304. I think that will take care of the vibration, plus add some corrosion protection.

I posted these on the facebook group, there was mild interest from others wanting me to make them a set. If I got a group of maybe 10 people, I would consider it, but I would need that many to make it worth the time it takes.

Nice install. FWIW, I had a 32 inch curved light bar installed. For me, the look was cleaner, and the lighting is amazing. I get 180 degrees of illumination at a distance equal to high beams settings. Cost was $60'sh for the light bar, $20'sh for the wiring harness, and $10'sh for the "zombie light" switch. I've had this for one year now with zero issues.
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I have other plans for lighting up top. I wanted these mounted here to light up the area off to the side (hence the name ditch lights). Up top I have plans to mount a light that will light up further past what the headlights reach. I also am thinking of putting something behind the lower grill.

This next week off I'm going to remake these in thicker steel, I'm thinking 3/16 304. I think that will take care of the vibration, plus add some corrosion protection.

I posted these on the facebook group, there was mild interest from others wanting me to make them a set. If I got a group of maybe 10 people, I would consider it, but I would need that many to make it worth the time it takes.
I would think this would be a good candidate for laser-cut heavy gauge aluminum.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
I would think this would be a good candidate for laser-cut heavy gauge aluminum.
sure, if i had access to that lol. Steel is much more cost effective for me.

BTW I have already made a mock up prototype for some brackets to hold a light bar up top. Im going with a similar idea that Stedi uses with the new Ford Ranger. The brackets will mount to the underside of the OEM roof rails, using an area of existing hardware, and having to tap 1 hole into each rail.

Here is a sneak peak at that...
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When I make the final mounts, the holes will not be open ended, that is just for fitment/mocking once i get the light bar.
 
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