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The owner's manual says that if ever you need to have your RL towed, you should have this done with a flat bed truck ~ towing by a regular tow truck can cause damage to the drive system.

My question, what about taking your RL through one of the automated car washes that push/pull your vehicle along a track ~ is that a problem?

Thanks for the advice...
 

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Welcome aboard and there are no stupid questions.

I sure hope not as several of us have done it a ton already.

I'm sure one of the more car techie guys will be able to tell you why they suggests this I know on all of my 4wd and AWD vehicles they always suggest flat bed or trolly towing.

Just as info anytime I have had any vehicle towed I always ask for a flat bed. Just seems like there is less chance for towing error if its off the ground.
 

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Not a problem because it allows all 4 wheels to still roll. It's only a problem if you lock down the front or back wheels not allowing them to roll while spinning the others which can damage the clutch packs in the transfer case.

Keep in mind this is only for a car wash which is a very short distance and very slow. Towing behind an RV has the potential to over heat the transmission and Honda has not certified the Ridge for tow behind applications yet as far as I know. Typically for RV tows you place the transmition in D for a few seconds and then neutral to ensure everything is disengaged and spins freely but I've seen nothing from Honda the RidgeLine has been tested for this yet.
 
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Welcome Ronel....thanks for stopping by.
First off..there is no such thing as a stupid question, especially here on the ROC. I think that's a good question.
I am a bit technologically challenged in my old age so I can't help you but I know someone here will have an answer for you soon. Stand by.
 

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Welcome aboard ronel! That is an interesting question. I am not a mechanic or a drive train engineer but since you have the vehicle in neutral and it is a very short and very slow process I can't see how there could be any damage by going through a car wash - at least to the drive train. Opinions will vary about the paint and finish. There are some very qualified members of the ROC that will be able to give you a very specific answer to your question. Be patient and check back often.
Thanks for joining and thanks for posting your GOOD question! There are no stupid questions here on the ROC! Your contributions to the ROC will help to make it even better!
Once again, welcome!
 

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ronel said:
The owner's manual says that if ever you need to have your RL towed, you should have this done with a flat bed truck ~ towing by a regular tow truck can cause damage to the drive system.

My question, what about taking your RL through one of the automated car washes that push/pull your vehicle along a track ~ is that a problem?

Thanks for the advice...
We've taken ours though no problems. They shift the cars & trucks into neutral and the tire carrier pulls them though the auto car wash.
 

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What usually determines whether a vehicle is towable is if enough lubrication is provided to the transmission when the tailshaft is being turned by the wheels and the input shaft is not turning. Not enough lubrication and your transmission becomes toast. A trip through the car was is not going to cause this to happen. Also, many car washes want you to leave the engine running, so it's not even the same conditions.
 

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I had never used one of these car washes until this last week and was a little concerned about this same thing, but figure it was for a short distance in neutral it should be fine.

But as was mentioned, the reason they tell you to pull it up on a flat bed is that the AWD system is not able to disengage either the front or rear wheels completely. This exact same warning is on most Subaru vehicles and probably on most other AWD based systems. Yes I know that the Ridgeline is 4WD but it is technically still an AWD system since you can't disengage any of the wheels from being part of the drive system. Also be very careful if your state has emissions tests that you ensure that the emissions test is compatible with AWD vehicles. Some places will simply jack your rear wheels up while they put the front wheels on the system, this is not good for your vehicle.
 

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captmiddy said:
Also be very careful if your state has emissions tests that you ensure that the emissions test is compatible with AWD vehicles.
Our emissions tests consists of them plugging in a computer for 30 seconds and then asking you to write them a check for $60. Oh well don't have to deal with that until 2009 on my RL.
 

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mayfielh said:
Our emissions tests consists of them plugging in a computer for 30 seconds and then asking you to write them a check for $60. Oh well don't have to deal with that until 2009 on my RL.
Imagine how much you could make a year at that rate? $60 every 30 seconds lets assume you only put in a 40 hour week, and lets just say you can only do one a minute so really it is $60 every minute. $3600 an hour, $28,000 a day, $144,000 a week, lets give ourselves 4 weeks vacation and 10 holidays, so a total of 46 weeks, so we could make $6,624,000. Not bad ;). I want that kind of money. If they could only pull in one every 30 minutes (which seems about right around here), they could get $120 an hour, or ~$240,000 a year, still a very nice paycheck. Of course there are all those state fees for the stickers, and equipment and the shop fees, but still not a bad living to just drive a car into a booth and look at it for 5 minutes.
 

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Oh well don't have to deal with that until 2009 on my RL.
Don't you mean 2007?
 

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In Pa we have to have the gas cap inspected once per year. The state sets the fee at $35.00. I don't know how many thousands of dollars the machine, the computer and the dedicated telephone line to test the caps and report the results individually to the state cost the service stations. It sure sounds like you could just throw your gas cap away every year and buy a new one for less than $35.00, but no, even that one would have to be tested. They better not start to test for methane because something stinks!
 

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Everyone is on the correct track about the clutch not disengaging completly, but other reasons a flatbed is recommended are: Towbars are heck on bumpers and the chains need to be hooked in the correct spot when lifting. Wreckers with tire lifts are so-so but only good for short distances.
Next is the weight capasity of the RL. If you are loaded (in the bed) it could twist the frame if only half of the RL is picked up. Honda would have a owners manual as thick as a Bible if they covered everthing, so they recommend flatbed. (Jacking it up OK if you put the jack in the correct spot)
Hope this helps.....
PS Carwash OK bc it's a short distance and engine running.
 

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ronel, I think you can see this was anything but a stupid question. Look at the great discussion it inspired. I've learned some things. Please keep those questions coming. It keeps it interesting around here.
 

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Imagine how much you could make a year at that rate? $60 every 30 seconds lets assume you only put in a 40 hour week, and lets just say you can only do one a minute so really it is $60 every minute. $3600 an hour, $28,000 a day, $144,000 a week, lets give ourselves 4 weeks vacation and 10 holidays, so a total of 46 weeks, so we could make $6,624,000. Not bad ;). I want that kind of money. If they could only pull in one every 30 minutes (which seems about right around here), they could get $120 an hour, or ~$240,000 a year, still a very nice paycheck. Of course there are all those state fees for the stickers, and equipment and the shop fees, but still not a bad living to just drive a car into a booth and look at it for 5 minutes.
Sorry Capt, no room for entrepreneurs here. The entire program is run by the state and the $75 fee covers both the emissions test and the two year license sticker.
 

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I agree, definately not a stupid question. The manual in our Suburban also states that if you must be towed, the AWD system must be disengaged, which is accomplished thru a series of transmission shifts and button pushes in the AWD console section. Not wanting to get too Off-Topic, but, ULTRA-HOG, I too am from PA & was not awere of this $35 state fee for the gas cap inspection. Could you elaborate?
 

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fatboy, if you are in one of the counties that has mandatory emissions inspections, the gas cap inspection is one component of the inspection. I believe that all counties in the state will require the inspections by 2008.
 

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That Emissions test comment is interesting because in NY they put the car on a dyno and bring the rpms up pretty high and vary from accelerating to constant rpms (I always think the car is going to fly off the rig). What wheels do you think they will put on the dyno - front or back? With the way the power shifts front to back to front on this truck, it would be a useless test. These mechanics will not have a clue how the RL moves traction around.
 
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