[Apex]

So I have been kind of down on the Ridgeline lately. Its an 07 with 162k, overall its OK but lately its developed some issues that made me rethink holding on to it.

First was the obnoxious suspension knocking going over bumps. It was getting worse and I already had replaced the sway end links. I brought it to my buddy (Toyota Tech) and he was pretty sure it was the struts or upper mounts. Second, the engine developed a loud ticking noise at idle. It was getting worse, I thought I must have screwed up the valve adjustment and it needed to be redone. Then the dome lights stopped working when you open the door. I replaced the bulbs but that didn't help. The last chronic issue was the vibrations at speed. I rotated tired and even replaced U-joints. It was a little better but it still had a substantial vibration.

I was starting to look at other vehicles seriously. But instead of jumping ship I decided to come back here first. With the help of the ROC, here is what I learned and did.

I disconnected the sway bar links and drove on bumpy roads, and viola! The noise was gone! That led me to replace the front sway bar bushings which fixed it permanently. For only four bolts, it took me an hour. No need to drop the cradle or anything crazy.

Researching the engine ticking, loose spark plugs seemed to be a chronic problem. Sure enough three out of six were loose. Ticking gone!

I took the dome light apart (instructions found on the ROC) and determined both the map light switches were bad. I also saved money by ordering them on ebay, thanks to the ROC again. New switches and problems solved.

The majority of the vibrations went away simply by replacing the worn out brake rotors/pads. This was suggested by someone here months ago.

No ticks, clunks, vibrations and the map lights work. Moral of the story, do a little research and keep that old Ridgeline!

Thanks to all!

 

[S.T.U.V]

Nice!!

I don't think the problems can be the frustration. It is the time and money required(how little it may be) that can be frustration to some. I am currently dealing with an interior leak and a few other issues at a most inopportune time..but I am taking a breath and a step back and getting it done cause I know if I show my ridge some love it will return the favor.

 

[speedlever]

Good post Apex. I'm curious which cylinders had loose spark plugs? And when you say loose, how would you define it? Hand tight? Looser that that?

That front suspension clunk... was that mainly noticed at low speed... and especially if you went over an uneven surface at an angle? (wondering if that's the same issue I have on my Pilot). Could you also feel it in the steering wheel? (the clunk)

 

[Apex]

Cylinder 2 was the worst. It required about 45* before resistance. 5 was next, it took maybe 20* and 6 was slightly loose. Cylinder 2 and 5 coil stems were actually dirty from combustion material. I ended up loosening all of them and torqueing to 14lbs.

The clunk was as you described, you can feel it in the wheel and it seemed to be more active during lateral pitching, or rolling over rough roads.

The bushings are enough of a job, so I would disconnect the links first. Replace them if needed. I like Moog because of the design.

 

[hwycycle]

Just my 2¢;
My brother has a 2008 with almost 140k miles, and his annoying knock was an inner tie rod.
I had already replaced his sway bar links (Moog) and his brakes. (Shimmy). He ultimately went to a front end shop for a diagnosis. They first recommended original Honda links... Which they did, and then discovered the inner tie rod. After replacing the tie rod, no more noise.

In regard to the vibration, I had a 2004 Crown Victoria Police package which I could not isolate the vibration. New tires, rims (recalled if in Police Service), sway bar bushings, links. It was driving me crazy... Then saw the excessive rust build up on the rotors. Complete brake job cured the vibration?.?. I never considered a rust build up causing unbalanced wheels.