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Hey all,
I've searched the forums to find a solution to my issue, but I can't seem to find my exact problem.
Approximately one month ago, my '06 starting locking all doors when accelerating away from a stop (like they're supposed to do at 10mph....once.) Any time I would slow below 10mph, then pass 10mph, the doors will lock. Also, if I get out of the truck and shut the door, it'll immediately lock (locked myself out accidentally a half dozen times already because of this). Fast forward to last night, and now my remote key fob wont lock/unlock the doors (I tried both fobs, changed both batteries, didn't help).
Any ideas?
Edit: I forgot to add - tonight I clicked the unlock (forgetting that it didn't work anymore) and then opened the door (which was already unlocked). The alarm sounded, and I couldn't turn it off. I clicked all the buttons on the fob but nothing turned the alarm off. I also started the truck, and it literally sat there running with the alarm going off. Not sure that helps...

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I suspect you either have a faulty MICU (Multiplex Integrated Control Unit) under the dash -OR- your battery is about to fail (Ridgelines and other Hondas are known to do really bizarre things when their batteries start dying - EVEN WHEN THEY TEST GOOD).

I'd first try "resetting" everything by removing the battery cables and touching them together for a few seconds then reconnecting them to the battery. You'll need your radio/navigation code(s), may need to reset the driver's auto power window, and will reset the ODB II readiness monitor, so make sure you don't have an emissions test coming up in the next several days.

If resetting doesn't fix it, I'd replace the battery if it's more than a couple of years old.

If that doesn't work, I'd pay a dealer to diagnose the problem. If it's a faulty MICU, I'd buy one online and replace it myself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks zroger - I just bought a brand new battery for my Accord that I haven't installed yet. I hooked the new battery to the old with jumper cables just to give it some extra oomph, but that didn't change anything. Do you think a weak battery is still a possibility or would that have eliminated it as a possibility. I'll check out that MICU thingy too, thanks!
 

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Thanks zroger - I just bought a brand new battery for my Accord that I haven't installed yet. I hooked the new battery to the old with jumper cables just to give it some extra oomph, but that didn't change anything. Do you think a weak battery is still a possibility or would that have eliminated it as a possibility. I'll check out that MICU thingy too, thanks!
I'm not sure that's the best test since unless the new battery has been on a float charger it won't have 100% charge. I think a weak battery is still a possibility.

The most common symptom of a weak battery on Hondas is "bouncing needles" in the gauge cluster and "phantom" warning lights.

I suppose a faulty alternator is another possibility. I'd check battery voltage and charging voltage as well.
 

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This is the type of issues, the ones that even we cannot diagnose on this forum, that the dealerships love. Get a loaner from them and dont be surprised if it sits there for a week. They will run through their bottom level techs first and then bump it to the senior tech. Make sure you inform your adviser to call you the moment they are sure they have diagnosed the problem. If you have an email for him/her, follow up that phone call or verbal conversation. As Zroger said, there is a possibility that it could be a part that you can change yourself for considerably less. If it is something that needs the HDS, then you better dig your pockets deep.

The pain is real my friend, sorry about the hassle with the truck though. It could be some electrical issue due to a water leak. Check it thoroughly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
This is the type of issues, the ones that even we cannot diagnose on this forum, that the dealerships love. Get a loaner from them and dont be surprised if it sits there for a week. They will run through their bottom level techs first and then bump it to the senior tech. Make sure you inform your adviser to call you the moment they are sure they have diagnosed the problem. If you have an email for him/her, follow up that phone call or verbal conversation. As Zroger said, there is a possibility that it could be a part that you can change yourself for considerably less. If it is something that needs the HDS, then you better dig your pockets deep.

The pain is real my friend, sorry about the hassle with the truck though. It could be some electrical issue due to a water leak. Check it thoroughly.
Yeesh. Not looking forward to that. I'm hoping maybe a bad actuator (unlikely) or that MICU thingymajig that's under the dash. The reason I bought an '06 with 100k on it was that my pockets aren't deep :wink: First thing I did when I bought the truck was the preventative stuff (t belt, w pump, tensioners, radiator, tires/brakes etc...) I was hoping I could get the maintenance up to date and get some years out of it. It's the little annoyances like this that are frustrating. Cant wait to see what Honda charges :act060: Thanks for the input!

I'm not sure that's the best test since unless the new battery has been on a float charger it won't have 100% charge. I think a weak battery is still a possibility.

The most common symptom of a weak battery on Hondas is "bouncing needles" in the gauge cluster and "phantom" warning lights.

I suppose a faulty alternator is another possibility. I'd check battery voltage and charging voltage as well.
I had AutoZone use their tester - said the battery was at 90% and the alternator was fine. I haven't had any bouncing needles or weird warning lights thankfully. Thanks for the input!
 

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I had AutoZone use their tester - said the battery was at 90% and the alternator was fine. I haven't had any bouncing needles or weird warning lights thankfully. Thanks for the input!
I'm not saying the battery is definitely the issue, but there have been reports here over the years of batteries and alternators testing "good" at parts stores, yet still cause problems. In particular, Hondas seem very sensitive to voltage issues. Also, check for corroded/loose cables and clamps on the posts.

Based on what we know so far, my hands-off WAG is that it's a faulty MICU.
 

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I took my G1 into the dealership for random starting issues. Everything was fine when it started up. Looking at the shop manual, I deduced it to be the immobilizer system. They had my truck for 6 days and prematurely (without diagnosing it at all) changed my ignition unit and it did not fix the issue. They try to push that buck onto me after they realized they screwed up. It turned out to be a $75 IMOES unit behind the rear seat, and I still had to fork out $730 with labor, diagnosis, and part. Since I could walk them through the troubleshooting process and demanding their time and dated printout of the read-back from the MDS is what got me out of paying for the ignition unit. Now I have a two keys to just drive the truck. Aggravates me just thinking about it.

Don't be as nice as I was. Do your troubleshooting well and be very clear with the adviser when you get in. Tell them you are aware of the truck and the process of deducing what could be wrong. If you have a scanner, hook it up and see what you can find. Do not give them the window to bull**** you. Go in armed with what you know, what you have done, when you have done it, and be confident. With the truck being old it is not going to covered under warranty. So they will try to butt rape you on everything they could. Just be cautious, no matter which dealership you take it to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I took my G1 into the dealership for random starting issues. Everything was fine when it started up. Looking at the shop manual, I deduced it to be the immobilizer system. They had my truck for 6 days and prematurely (without diagnosing it at all) changed my ignition unit and it did not fix the issue. They try to push that buck onto me after they realized they screwed up. It turned out to be a $75 IMOES unit behind the rear seat, and I still had to fork out $730 with labor, diagnosis, and part. Since I could walk them through the troubleshooting process and demanding their time and dated printout of the read-back from the MDS is what got me out of paying for the ignition unit. Now I have a two keys to just drive the truck. Aggravates me just thinking about it.

Don't be as nice as I was. Do your troubleshooting well and be very clear with the adviser when you get in. Tell them you are aware of the truck and the process of deducing what could be wrong. If you have a scanner, hook it up and see what you can find. Do not give them the window to bull**** you. Go in armed with what you know, what you have done, when you have done it, and be confident. With the truck being old it is not going to covered under warranty. So they will try to butt rape you on everything they could. Just be cautious, no matter which dealership you take it to.
Jeez, that sucks - sorry you got the run around. Is the IMOES thing the same as the MICU thing? Anyone have a link to what it looks like? Thanks for the input !
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
From doing some basic internet research, it seems that the IMOES unit is related to the immobilizer. Since i'm able to start the vehicle, i'm guessing the immobilizer is a-ok. The MICU unit / Multiplex gizmo seems like a likely candidate, but i'm having a tough time finding a part number or picture to use as reference - anyone have one? The diagrams in the above post were awesome, but i'm a knucklehead and need more :)
 

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From doing some basic internet research, it seems that the IMOES unit is related to the immobilizer. Since i'm able to start the vehicle, i'm guessing the immobilizer is a-ok. The MICU unit / Multiplex gizmo seems like a likely candidate, but i'm having a tough time finding a part number or picture to use as reference - anyone have one? The diagrams in the above post were awesome, but i'm a knucklehead and need more :)
Look at my post #6 on the previous page of this thread. I posted the part number for the MICU and a link to another thread that contains several pictures of it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Look at my post #6 on the previous page of this thread. I posted the part number for the MICU and a link to another thread that contains several pictures of it.
Does it matter if I get the A11 or A12? When I select my vehicle ('06 RTL with sunroof / navigation), it gives me two options (a11 / a12) but both are listed as the same #1 item in the diagram. Does it matter? Apparently the a11 is the original part number, but a12 is the new part number. I'm just wondering if they are different at all. I would assume I have the a11 in there now - and if so, would it be an "upgrade" to get the a12?
 

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Does it matter if I get the A11 or A12? When I select my vehicle ('06 RTL with sunroof / navigation), it gives me two options (a11 / a12) but both are listed as the same #1 item in the diagram. Does it matter? Apparently the a11 is the original part number, but a12 is the new part number. I'm just wondering if they are different at all. I would assume I have the a11 in there now - and if so, would it be an "upgrade" to get the a12?
Again, your answer will be found in the second link on my post #6 on the first page of this thread. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Maybe unrelated, but similar:

I've just realized that my trunk no longer locks/unlocks without using the key. If I use the driver door lock / unlock button it works all doors, but not the trunk. The only way in the trunk is with the key.

Could this possibly cause my other issues? I tried to find a trunk lock actuator / solenoid thingy online but I can only find them for the four interior doors. You guys think its worth replacing that unit under the trunk lid? I'm wondering if maybe the "signal" isn't making it past that "dead" actuator thingy.... but then again i'm not too bright when it comes to electric parts. It's all voodoo to me.
 

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Maybe unrelated, but similar:

I've just realized that my trunk no longer locks/unlocks without using the key. If I use the driver door lock / unlock button it works all doors, but not the trunk. The only way in the trunk is with the key.

Could this possibly cause my other issues? I tried to find a trunk lock actuator / solenoid thingy online but I can only find them for the four interior doors. You guys think its worth replacing that unit under the trunk lid? I'm wondering if maybe the "signal" isn't making it past that "dead" actuator thingy.... but then again i'm not too bright when it comes to electric parts. It's all voodoo to me.
If there were no other symptoms other than the trunk wouldn't open without the key, then that would be the setting of the trunk lock switch in the glove compartment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
If there were no other symptoms other than the trunk wouldn't open without the key, then that would be the setting of the trunk lock switch in the glove compartment.
I tried that switch first but it wasn't the culprit. I still do have the problem where my key fobs wont lock/unlock anything though. I haven't purchased the IMOES or MICU units yet - and I was also trying to get my hands on the switch assembly for the driver door to see if that had anything to do with it.
That said, my key fobs WILL work after I "program" them to the car, so long as the key is still in the ignition (key on, click lock, key off, repeat 3x) will make the locks work with the fob, but as soon as I remove the fob from the ignition, it quits working. I know I need to just replace the MICU thingymajig but my additional trunk lock issue makes me think its possible that the trunk actuator gizmo might be related ..... i hate electric issues >:)
 

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@kb2wji IMO, start with the MICU, it's going to be a PITA, but the steps are pretty lined out in post#6 Link that @zroger73 provided. If you're trying to avoid the work below are few items to check/work on, but I think you're going to be replacing the MICU or paying for the dealer or automotive electric repair business to do it. As for the secondary issues with trunk lock, key fob & ignition switch. These issues are best resolved by eliminating the 1st idenfied problem before finding other stuff to work on at the same time, both other issues you have could be related and were probably only found after the initial problem was noted, although they could have been precursors (warning signs) of the impending primary issue.

"Eat the elephant one bite at a time"

Now like @smufguy said, if you are going to the "STEALERSHIP" for this work don't take the runaround he got, tell them all the stuff you have done and SPECIFICALLY what you want them to do, i.e. Scan with the HDS, LOAD TEST the charging system and battery, and replace the MICU, probably in that order, before BS "diagnosis fees" and random parts replacements and labor charges.

A few free/cheap things to check, if you have more time then money.

If, you still have the Accord battery, you could throw it in or exchange your current G1 battery just to eliminate it as a candidate. Depending on where you purchased it, they may have a charger (and a requirement before replacement) which would bring restore it to 100% or something close to it over 5-10hrs, before they will exchange it.

I'm sorry but an AutoZone or other parts store tool is not the same as the HDS at the dealer or pro grade load testing equipment that a dealer or automotive electric could test your vehicle with. We've had multiple members say store "X" said it was good (the battery) but replaced the battery and it eliminated the problem.

Now with that said recently we have had a member (and there's a thread) with both Roger & I advocating replacing the battery and he did and it didn't make any change, this is maybe 1 of 100 similar threads.

Once the battery is fully charged (parts store) or another way to eliminate it from the equation is. If you have a decent charger, I would still swap your other battery in after 5-10hrs on the charger. FYI. a new battery sitting on the floor of a cold garage would lose more charge then the same battery installed in the vehicle with the typical losses when connected to a modern vehicle.

While the battery is removed, check the body grounds (I'll add a picture later) and both positive/negative battery cables for heavy corrosion (white powder looking stuff). These vehicles are considered "high draw" and are very susceptible to any failures in getting proper voltage to the system.
Line art Diagram Technical drawing Drawing

When you can say that you have eliminated these possible issues, your back to the MICU.

P.S. As for versions A10, A11 or A12, be sure that you are providing the VIN to the online dealer or parts counter person, as with that information they would be able to determine which of these various MICU's are correct for your vehicle.

Online shopping is nice but the person behind the counter or over the phone has a wealth of knowledge that they sometimes can only share if asked, Right @S.T.U.V. :grin:

YMMV
 
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