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Doors lock every time I start from a stop (RESOLVED)

15K views 54 replies 10 participants last post by  KMAN1313131313 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Hey all,
I've searched the forums to find a solution to my issue, but I can't seem to find my exact problem.
Approximately one month ago, my '06 starting locking all doors when accelerating away from a stop (like they're supposed to do at 10mph....once.) Any time I would slow below 10mph, then pass 10mph, the doors will lock. Also, if I get out of the truck and shut the door, it'll immediately lock (locked myself out accidentally a half dozen times already because of this). Fast forward to last night, and now my remote key fob wont lock/unlock the doors (I tried both fobs, changed both batteries, didn't help).
Any ideas?
Edit: I forgot to add - tonight I clicked the unlock (forgetting that it didn't work anymore) and then opened the door (which was already unlocked). The alarm sounded, and I couldn't turn it off. I clicked all the buttons on the fob but nothing turned the alarm off. I also started the truck, and it literally sat there running with the alarm going off. Not sure that helps...

SOLUTION
 
#2 ·
I suspect you either have a faulty MICU (Multiplex Integrated Control Unit) under the dash -OR- your battery is about to fail (Ridgelines and other Hondas are known to do really bizarre things when their batteries start dying - EVEN WHEN THEY TEST GOOD).

I'd first try "resetting" everything by removing the battery cables and touching them together for a few seconds then reconnecting them to the battery. You'll need your radio/navigation code(s), may need to reset the driver's auto power window, and will reset the ODB II readiness monitor, so make sure you don't have an emissions test coming up in the next several days.

If resetting doesn't fix it, I'd replace the battery if it's more than a couple of years old.

If that doesn't work, I'd pay a dealer to diagnose the problem. If it's a faulty MICU, I'd buy one online and replace it myself.
 
#3 ·
Thanks zroger - I just bought a brand new battery for my Accord that I haven't installed yet. I hooked the new battery to the old with jumper cables just to give it some extra oomph, but that didn't change anything. Do you think a weak battery is still a possibility or would that have eliminated it as a possibility. I'll check out that MICU thingy too, thanks!
 
#4 ·
I'm not sure that's the best test since unless the new battery has been on a float charger it won't have 100% charge. I think a weak battery is still a possibility.

The most common symptom of a weak battery on Hondas is "bouncing needles" in the gauge cluster and "phantom" warning lights.

I suppose a faulty alternator is another possibility. I'd check battery voltage and charging voltage as well.
 
#5 ·
This is the type of issues, the ones that even we cannot diagnose on this forum, that the dealerships love. Get a loaner from them and dont be surprised if it sits there for a week. They will run through their bottom level techs first and then bump it to the senior tech. Make sure you inform your adviser to call you the moment they are sure they have diagnosed the problem. If you have an email for him/her, follow up that phone call or verbal conversation. As Zroger said, there is a possibility that it could be a part that you can change yourself for considerably less. If it is something that needs the HDS, then you better dig your pockets deep.

The pain is real my friend, sorry about the hassle with the truck though. It could be some electrical issue due to a water leak. Check it thoroughly.
 
#7 ·
Yeesh. Not looking forward to that. I'm hoping maybe a bad actuator (unlikely) or that MICU thingymajig that's under the dash. The reason I bought an '06 with 100k on it was that my pockets aren't deep :wink: First thing I did when I bought the truck was the preventative stuff (t belt, w pump, tensioners, radiator, tires/brakes etc...) I was hoping I could get the maintenance up to date and get some years out of it. It's the little annoyances like this that are frustrating. Cant wait to see what Honda charges :act060: Thanks for the input!

I'm not sure that's the best test since unless the new battery has been on a float charger it won't have 100% charge. I think a weak battery is still a possibility.

The most common symptom of a weak battery on Hondas is "bouncing needles" in the gauge cluster and "phantom" warning lights.

I suppose a faulty alternator is another possibility. I'd check battery voltage and charging voltage as well.
I had AutoZone use their tester - said the battery was at 90% and the alternator was fine. I haven't had any bouncing needles or weird warning lights thankfully. Thanks for the input!
 
#6 ·
#9 ·
I took my G1 into the dealership for random starting issues. Everything was fine when it started up. Looking at the shop manual, I deduced it to be the immobilizer system. They had my truck for 6 days and prematurely (without diagnosing it at all) changed my ignition unit and it did not fix the issue. They try to push that buck onto me after they realized they screwed up. It turned out to be a $75 IMOES unit behind the rear seat, and I still had to fork out $730 with labor, diagnosis, and part. Since I could walk them through the troubleshooting process and demanding their time and dated printout of the read-back from the MDS is what got me out of paying for the ignition unit. Now I have a two keys to just drive the truck. Aggravates me just thinking about it.

Don't be as nice as I was. Do your troubleshooting well and be very clear with the adviser when you get in. Tell them you are aware of the truck and the process of deducing what could be wrong. If you have a scanner, hook it up and see what you can find. Do not give them the window to bull**** you. Go in armed with what you know, what you have done, when you have done it, and be confident. With the truck being old it is not going to covered under warranty. So they will try to butt rape you on everything they could. Just be cautious, no matter which dealership you take it to.
 
#12 ·
From doing some basic internet research, it seems that the IMOES unit is related to the immobilizer. Since i'm able to start the vehicle, i'm guessing the immobilizer is a-ok. The MICU unit / Multiplex gizmo seems like a likely candidate, but i'm having a tough time finding a part number or picture to use as reference - anyone have one? The diagrams in the above post were awesome, but i'm a knucklehead and need more :)
 
#17 ·
Maybe unrelated, but similar:

I've just realized that my trunk no longer locks/unlocks without using the key. If I use the driver door lock / unlock button it works all doors, but not the trunk. The only way in the trunk is with the key.

Could this possibly cause my other issues? I tried to find a trunk lock actuator / solenoid thingy online but I can only find them for the four interior doors. You guys think its worth replacing that unit under the trunk lid? I'm wondering if maybe the "signal" isn't making it past that "dead" actuator thingy.... but then again i'm not too bright when it comes to electric parts. It's all voodoo to me.
 
#20 · (Edited)
@kb2wji IMO, start with the MICU, it's going to be a PITA, but the steps are pretty lined out in post#6 Link that @zroger73 provided. If you're trying to avoid the work below are few items to check/work on, but I think you're going to be replacing the MICU or paying for the dealer or automotive electric repair business to do it. As for the secondary issues with trunk lock, key fob & ignition switch. These issues are best resolved by eliminating the 1st idenfied problem before finding other stuff to work on at the same time, both other issues you have could be related and were probably only found after the initial problem was noted, although they could have been precursors (warning signs) of the impending primary issue.

"Eat the elephant one bite at a time"

Now like @smufguy said, if you are going to the "STEALERSHIP" for this work don't take the runaround he got, tell them all the stuff you have done and SPECIFICALLY what you want them to do, i.e. Scan with the HDS, LOAD TEST the charging system and battery, and replace the MICU, probably in that order, before BS "diagnosis fees" and random parts replacements and labor charges.

A few free/cheap things to check, if you have more time then money.

If, you still have the Accord battery, you could throw it in or exchange your current G1 battery just to eliminate it as a candidate. Depending on where you purchased it, they may have a charger (and a requirement before replacement) which would bring restore it to 100% or something close to it over 5-10hrs, before they will exchange it.

I'm sorry but an AutoZone or other parts store tool is not the same as the HDS at the dealer or pro grade load testing equipment that a dealer or automotive electric could test your vehicle with. We've had multiple members say store "X" said it was good (the battery) but replaced the battery and it eliminated the problem.

Now with that said recently we have had a member (and there's a thread) with both Roger & I advocating replacing the battery and he did and it didn't make any change, this is maybe 1 of 100 similar threads.

Once the battery is fully charged (parts store) or another way to eliminate it from the equation is. If you have a decent charger, I would still swap your other battery in after 5-10hrs on the charger. FYI. a new battery sitting on the floor of a cold garage would lose more charge then the same battery installed in the vehicle with the typical losses when connected to a modern vehicle.

While the battery is removed, check the body grounds (I'll add a picture later) and both positive/negative battery cables for heavy corrosion (white powder looking stuff). These vehicles are considered "high draw" and are very susceptible to any failures in getting proper voltage to the system.
Line art Diagram Technical drawing Drawing


When you can say that you have eliminated these possible issues, your back to the MICU.

P.S. As for versions A10, A11 or A12, be sure that you are providing the VIN to the online dealer or parts counter person, as with that information they would be able to determine which of these various MICU's are correct for your vehicle.

Online shopping is nice but the person behind the counter or over the phone has a wealth of knowledge that they sometimes can only share if asked, Right @S.T.U.V. :grin:

YMMV
 
#21 ·
^ Thanks for taking the time to outline that stuff! When I get some time i'm going to order the MICU and start plugging away. With all those relays doing into the MICU, might it simply be a bad relay? It seems from Zrogers link that i'll simply be swapping the relays from my existing MICU to the new one - is it possible that one of the relays is simply shot? I'd hate to put a bad relay into a new MICU - if that's even a possibility. (It seems from the link that the fuses come with the MICU, but the relays do not)

I know I sound like a broken record, but i'm just trying to get an understanding of how the system works. I really appreciate all of the help!!
 
#22 ·
The MICU (Multiplex Integrated Control Unit) receives signals from other units and switches to control various devices. For example, when you press the trunk release button on the trunk lid, the button sends an "unlock request signal" to the MICU. If the MICU "approves" this request, it sends voltage to the trunk release actuator to open the trunk. When you press a power window button, you send a request to the MICU to operate a window. The MICU then operates the window. Same for the locks, lighting, horn, wipers, etc. The MICU controls all those devices.

All of your symptoms point to a hardware or communications fault with the MICU.
 
#25 ·
I've been reading this thread with interest and wish you the best of luck in finding a successful repair. One thing I would recommend to do (if you haven't already) before delving into the replacement of the MICU is to check all the fuses related to the thing first. According to the information provided above by Carsmak, I noted 4 fuses on the list (#7, #8, #21, and #22) that each have something to do with the function of the MICU. Checking the fuses would be simple and would either eliminate doubt as to the integrity of an involved circuit, or point to a problem elsewhere that could then be traced. Just a thought...
 
#26 ·
^ Thanks, i'll check that out.

Update: I replaced the MICU - it didn't fix my issue. Honda ran codes and told me that the lock cylinder is throwing a code. Honda is going to replace that (since it needs to be coded to the key) and hope for the best. I guess it's that time now...throwing money at it until I get lucky. Not happy about it.
 
#27 ·
Sorry to hear about your struggles with the door locks and the unsuccessful attempt at repair. Hope this time it works fine.
 
#31 ·
Update: Honda said that I was throwing a code for the door lock cylinder. They replaced it to the tune of about $300. Didnt do anything. The locks will work fine for a few minutes, then the car will throw the same code and it will all go to hell and stop working. The service writer said the tech traced the wires and all is functioning as it should. They are baffled. I'm getting exhausted with this problem and Honda does not offer exorcisms.

Anyone want a beautifully running RTL with a mint interior that requires the key to be used in all the locks instead of the clicker? :)
 
#32 ·
Well that sux, do they have any ideas?
 
#34 ·
Great article - I showed it to Honda but they seemed to know about it. I can't remember the code, but it was a door lock cylinder fault. That part was replaced but didn't fix anything. (It was a ~14" wire with a connector on one side and a lock switch thingy on the other. I'll try to find out more about the code tomorrow.
 
#37 ·
I'm curious if the DTC was "B1127 Driver's Door Lock Key Cylinder Switch Malfunction". If so, you look at the status of the driver's door key cylinder switch lock and unlock signals using the HDS to ensure they're both "off" when the key is in the neutral position and either the lock or unlock signal is "on" when the key is turned to the corresponding position. If not, the repair involves repairing a wiring short, replacing the driver's door key cylinder switch, or replacing the door multiplex control unit (aka "power window master switch") - not the ignition cylinder or multiplex integrated control unit.
 
#38 ·
Update: Honda has done me a huge solid. They still cant diagnose the issue so they're not charging me a dime for the work!! I almost fell over! A huge shout-out to Economy Honda in Chattanooga ! ! ! !

The tech says the next step would be to change the door multiplex control unit (like zroger said), and if that fails, it'll likely mean tearing apart body parts to trace wires. The tech said another tech has a ridgeline so he's going to swap switch units and see if that helps. Fingers crossed ...
 
#39 ·
Update: Honda has done me a huge solid. They still cant diagnose the issue so they're not charging me a dime for the work!! I almost fell over! A huge shout-out to Economy Honda in Chattanooga ! ! ! !

The tech says the next step would be to change the door multiplex control unit (like zroger said), and if that fails, it'll likely mean tearing apart body parts to trace wires. The tech said another tech has a ridgeline so he's going to swap switch units and see if that helps. Fingers crossed ...
That is Huge!!! Good Luck, sounds like you have a good dealer or at least good Service Manager, Writers and Techs!!!
 
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#41 ·
Update: I picked up the truck from Honda this morning. Two page invoice with a zero balance due!! I'm blown away! They swapped out my window switch multiplex and said that was my problem. The part from Honda is ~$230, but I see a bunch of window switches on eBay for under $100. I'll just go that route I think. I think I have to remove the door panel to swap it out but I think I can handle that :)

The input on this forum was MUCH appreciated - such a great resource! Thanks guys!
 
#44 ·
They swapped out my window switch multiplex and said that was my problem. The part from Honda is ~$230, but I see a bunch of window switches on eBay for under $100. I'll just go that route I think.
Hopefully, a used switch from eBay won't be defective. It looks like Honda's list price for a new one is $211, but they are about $140+shipping at online Honda dealers. After all you've been through with this, I'm not sure I'd be willing to take any more gambles. :) Good luck!
 
#42 ·
Once you actually do it, I'd like to update the thread title and maybe link the first post to the final post.

Keep us informed
 
#51 ·
IT WORKS ! ! !

I finally got it squared away. The multiplex electro-gizmo-thingy that's attached to the bottom of the four window switches (the rear sliding glass is it's own piece) was the culprit. To recap:

Week 1: my doors would lock when i pulled away from a stop
Week 2: my key fob clickers stopped working (changed battery / reprogrammed to no avail)
Week 3: my trunk quit opening when I clicked the unlock button on the driver door (nope, the glove box switch wasn't the cause)
Week 4: my truck would lock itself automatically upon shutting the door when the truck was still running (if I got out and shut the door, my keys were now locked inside my running truck.) Also, the doors would lock and unlock as if possessed by a demon.
Week 5: on top of all the other issues, my car alarm would now go off at random times. Almost always while I was at work or sleeping. I gave my neighbor my spare key and had some pizza delivered to his house. Sorry dude!

My attempts at fixing it which did NOT work: main multiplex / MICU unit near the driver footwell. Didn't fix anything, but didnt hurt anything. Driver door lock actuator. That changed nothing, but I wanted to change it anyway because it made that cute little "im about to die on you" sneeze noise when I hit the lock button.

The fix: The assembly that makes up the four window switches on the driver door. To change it, I had to take the door panel off and use a VERY short screwdriver (one of the ratchet types that are a total of 2" long). While I was in there I noticed that the cable that connects my interior door pull to the lock actuator had a broken clip on it. Only a matter of time before I was locked in my car (ever see someone trying to use a coat hanger to get OUT of a locked car? :grin: ) I had to again remove the door lock actuator to change that cable. Sort of a pain in the butt, but if I can do it, you can do it. Tiny little raccoon hands would have helped, but with needle nose pliers and a long screwdriver anything is possible.

As of now, my clickers work, my locks work, my windows work, my trunk unlocks, and my alarm doesn't freak out anymore. Mission accomplished.

Also, a HUGE shout out to Economy Honda of Chattanooga TN. Retchie (service writer) and Brian (mechanic) were amazing. They changed the MICU for me and charged me zero labor, and also swapped a few parts around to narrow down the issue. Once I got it nailed down I just bought the parts from Honda and did it myself. Great bunch of guys there. I've purchased 3 Honda's from them (2011 Civic SI new, 2014 Accord EXL V6 used, and a 2011 Civic SE used) and they were great. Great prices, great service. Thanks guys.

Now a shout out to this forum. You guys rock. This was exhausting to figure out, and you guys were incredibly helpful. The combo of you guys and the Honda dealership made it possible to solve. Thank you! :grin:
 
#46 ·
Welp, you were right. I got my $66 window switch. DOA. One of the window switches is physically broken. I tried to take the "guts" of it apart to try to swap the electric stuff with my current switches, but I can't get it apart. It's off to Honda in the AM to spend $250. Now my truck alarm goes off 10x per day. It randomly locks and unlocks to the point where the alarm goes off. I had to disconnect the battery. I'm so sick of this problem. Every day there's one more problem associated with this switch.
 
#47 ·
That sucks, can you wait and order from an Online Honda dealer?
 
#48 ·
I managed to finally take apart the "new" switch gizmo and fix it enough where it'll work. I plugged it in and programmed the key to it and it seems to work. Sort of. My trunk still doesn't unlock, but at least the clicker works and the alarm quit freaking out.

Taking the door panel off was a piece of cake. Unfortunately, when I unhooked the cable pull from the interior door handle, the plastic L shaped thingy broke. It was so dried out and brittle feeling I knew there was no way to salvage it. I'm pretty sure if I dropped that plastic piece on the ground it would have vaporized into plastic dust. Honda has no idea which piece i'm talking about when I called them to order a new one, so it's off to Honda again to order up what's probably going to be a $4,000 plastic clip. More to come!
 
#49 ·
My trunk still doesn't unlock..
Did someone turn the In-Bed Trunk main switch in the glove compartment "off"?

Taking the door panel off was a piece of cake. Unfortunately, when I unhooked the cable pull from the interior door handle, the plastic L shaped thingy broke. It was so dried out and brittle feeling I knew there was no way to salvage it. I'm pretty sure if I dropped that plastic piece on the ground it would have vaporized into plastic dust. Honda has no idea which piece i'm talking about when I called them to order a new one, so it's off to Honda again to order up what's probably going to be a $4,000 plastic clip. More to come!
It sounds like you need to ask Santa for a 3D printer. :)

:xmas3:
 
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#53 ·
I was able to patch up the one from eBay. The rear window switch has it's own "electro gizmo box thingy" and is a separate piece. I used my existing rear slider switch, existing power mirror assembly, and the eBay "four window switch" multiplex. I did have to fix one of the switches that wouldnt "return" to normal position but that wasn't too difficult. I emailed the eBay seller and told him that the rear slider switch was missing the electronics and that the window switch was screwy....he instantly refunded all of my money to me and said keep the part. He said "we're a family business built on trust". Holy moly. As frustrating as this has been, i've met some pretty fantastic people. Didn't know people still did business like that :smile: At some point I will probably buy a new Honda unit for piece of mind, but this one works OK for now. At least I know what the issue is if it happens with this unit.
 
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