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Discussion Starter #1
My’06 Ridgeline started the week out with a very high brake pedal and after a mile, dragging brakes x 4 abs/vsa lights on.
I ensured that the parking brakes weren’t dragging. Replaced,the bad caliper at passenger side rear, Replaced the master cylinder, still high pedal , still abs vsa lights on.
any ideas?-
 

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2008 Ridgeline RTS in Billet Silver Metallic
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Were all the guide pins free?

There's a wheel bearing magnetic encoder that's sensitive to correct positioning. You didn't R&R that by any chance?

404231


404232
 

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2008 Ridgeline RTS in Billet Silver Metallic
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Yeah, I thought that wheel magnetic encoder might be way out there on a limb, but thought it worth mentioning in case there was other unmentioned maintenance performed.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So, latest update,,,,, aka what do I try next.
Within a mile of driving, my brakes top out, start dragging, and the abs & vsa lights come on . So I pull the vacuum hose off the booster, vacuum releases, I replace the hose, reset the abs/vsa lights, with the 9pin/4 pin trick wait a while and the brakes are fine again, half pedal, firm brakes.
So, notice how my sentences often start with so? So I start the truck and just sit there idling, brakes are fine, ten minutes later, brake pedal to the top, brakes dragging again, no abs/vsa lights.
So, yup so again, answered my question, are the brakes turning on the abs module or is the module screwing around with the brakes. It’s the brakes.
There is nothing left to accuse but the brake booster, but everything I’ve ever read about booster problems have little or no brakes for an end result. I have too much. Reading the Ridgeline groups many owners complain about low, mushy brakes, I have too much firm brakes, can I bleed off my excess brakes and sell the excess to other Ridgeline owners via ebay or something?
So, yup once again, humor time over, has anyone ever heard of such Ridgeline problems and/or can find a solution for me? I’ll admit it is nice sitting in the driveway, ac and the radio blasting but I would rather be on the road again honking and yelling at my fellow drivers, have you EVER read your drivers manual or BLINKERS ! BLINKEERS !!!
Thank you in advance,
 

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2010 RT - Bali Blue
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I think I have heard of this issue before, but cannot recall the resolution. The issue was pointing to the ABS modulator.
  • did you do anything to the adjuster by the brake pedal? is there anything binding there?
  • any pinched or bent hoses?
  • are all brakes dragging, or just one?
  • when you bled the brakes, did you do it at all corners, or just the one you replaced the caliper on?
  • When the master cylinder was replaced, did you bench bleed it first, prior to installing and bleeding the system?
  • what brand MC did you use?
  • air in the ABS modulator can throw those codes and act all weird.
The booster is probably not the culprit here as their failure rate in the Ridgeline is very low.
@zroger73 , wanna share some of your thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hi there,
I did no adjustments to the brake pedal, no binding there. All lines are as before. All 4 brakes bind up. When I bled the brakes I did as read, drivers front first then clockwise around the vehicle. The passenger rear caliper, the one replaced was bleed #3, I bled them engine off, I didn’t bench bleed the master cylinder because they never supplied the bench bleeding plugs that they described in their instructions , I did preinstall pour brake fluid in the m/c till it ran out the line connections then plugged them off, the m/c came from Amazon, Dorman M603291 new not rebuilt. 55 dollars new and overnight delivery.

So, up in till today I drove around a few blocks, the brakes were excellent in the beginning, mid pedal, nice and firm. Within ten blocks all four were dragging, brake pedal at the top, the abs and the vsa lights on and me, driving with white knuckles hoping I get home.

‘Now Sunday update, I start the truck, brake pedal at the top, and the pedal as before lowers to a comfortable mid stroke, as we’re idling I check @ 2 minutes, brakes fine, I check @ 4, fine, I check @ 7 minutes, no pedal movement at all all 4 brakes seized, I pull the vacuum hose off the booster and air rushes in, followed by a knock, thunk ? Replace the hose, start the truck full pedal goes 1/2 way down, like it’s supposed to, firm brakes . So I idle it again in neutral, drop it in gear @ 2 minutes, fine, @ 4 fine, @ 7 seized up brakes again. Pull the vacuum hose off and again, perfect brakes.

So what I learned today is A: the brakes are turning on the abs/vsa lights not the lights topping out my brakes and 2: my world is a happier place when I release the vacuum in the booster every 6 minutes.

i will welcome any thoughts on this, thank you.
 

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2010 RT - Bali Blue
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I see that you followed the Service Manual. That is great. When I did mine, I purposely ignored it and did the old way, which was the furthest end from the MC to the closest. I had no issues with brakes dragging. I also used Centric MC

Get the Dorman 13911 MC bleeder kit. It is around $8 from a parts store and use that to bench bleed the master cylinder. Remove the MC again, bench bleed it, and then reinstall it.
Brands such as Dorman and Centric are good quality units, but still are susceptible to issues. I was sent a replacement MC when I expressed to Centric Customer service of their level sender being faulty and they sent me a replacement whole new MC.

From what you said, I want to clarify something. At the 2min and 4min mark, when the brakes were fine, did you depress the brake pedal to test the binding, or the vehicle was idling with the brakes untouched and you were problem free at 2min and 4min? Then by the 7min mark, the brakes started to drag by themselves?

From online resources, here are some possible causes

Master Cylinder: an incorrect brake pedal adjustment can cause brake drag. this pedal adjustment is crucial, and if adjusted too tightly, the vent port of the master cylinder can become blocked. The building pressure in the system results in brake drag and possible brake lockup. A slight gap should be present between the pushrod and the master cylinder. A worn or corroded master cylinder bore causes excess pedal effort resulting in dragging brakes.
- Source: freeasestudyguides.com

Brake Booster Push Rod Length: Similar to the above scenario, the pin between the brake booster and the master cylinder can be too long. This will not allow the master cylinder to release completely. To correct this problem, it is necessary to determine the distance between the push rod and the piston. This needs to be approximately .020”. To aid in measuring this and for visual assistance, refer to Got A Soft Pedal? Don't Forget The Booster Pin to Master Cylinder Gap Master Power offers a handy Push Rod Depth Gauge Tool that every good mechanic should have in their toolbox.
- Source: techtalk.mpbrakes.com (How to diagnosing and fixing brake drag)

Excessive Push Rod Length: The brake system in your car contains numerous components, each of which plays a distinct role in braking. One of the first components to engage goes by the name of the push rod. The push rod connects to your brake pedal, and acts to transmit force from your foot to your brakes.
More specifically, when you depress the pedal, the push rod transfers force to the master cylinder. This component then releases the hydraulic fluid necessary for braking. The length of the push rod plays a critical role in providing accurate, responsive results. If too short, your brakes won't engage as quickly as they should.
An overly long push rod, on the other hand, leads to brake drag. This excessive length prevents the master cylinder from relaxing entirely when you release the brakes. As a result, hydraulic force continues to act on your brakes, keeping them pressed against the rotors on your wheels.
Ideally, the push rod should be neither too short nor too long. Mechanics usually allow a small amount of free play. A small gap between the push rod and the master cylinder prevents brake drag, while avoiding the issue of unresponsive brakes. A mechanic can measure the exact amount of play before your brake engages, and make adjustments as necessary.
- Source: radialtireservice.com

Pedal Free Play: If the brake pedal free play is out of specification, adjust the brake pedal position switch. If the brake pedal free play is insufficient, it may result in brake drag.
- Source: Honda FSM (section -19)


I still believe it is something related to the pedal to MC connection. It is very rare for all 4 corners to drag and usually is a mechanical issue, than an electronic issue with the ABS modulator.
Check Section-19 in your Service manual about the brakes to troubleshoot the pedal distance (155mm). Also, check on the brake pedal position switch adjustment. If something is off with this, then you could have similar issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the informative answer.
when I timed the malfunction The first time I pushed on the brake pedal at the 2-4-7 mark,,,and they seized. After ”re-setting” the booster I started the truck, put it in neutral and slipped it into gear at the 2-4-7 minute mark to see if it would roll. At the 7 minute mark they were once again seized up.

I know my limitations and brought it to my favorite honest mechanic, who agreed the booster was bad and also was the some controller for the abs module ? They have, so far today installed the only brake booster in a 100 mile radius that also was defective,,,,,,, oh my better them than me, I wouldn’t have handled that too well.

updates soon, fingers crossed, wrenches wiped clean and put away.
 

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If they do swap the Booster and everything checks out free and problem free, I would like to see what was wrong with your old one. I am very curious.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So, up and running and a bit shorter in the wallet. Yes the booster was bad, and so was the 1st replacement too !!
And the abs module relay was bad the booster screwed up the brakes and the module the lights, tag team match, thank you Honda !

I never got found out what was wrong with the brake booster , but when I described the clunk sound that accompanied the rush of air when removing the vacuum hose my mechanic instantly said bad brake booster.
Thank you all !!!
 

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Glad that got sorted out. Keep us in the loop after a week's worth of driving (around 100 or 200 miles) and let us how the truck behaves.
 
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