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will Honda centercaps fit or no? I was never a big fan of the enkei caps myself
I like the clean look of the Enkei caps, thus didn't look at trying Honda caps on there and expect the Honda caps won't work. Frankly, Enkei is a premier wheel maker in Japan, I don't get the desire to hide the fact that we upgraded to a higher end premium wheel.

In fact the optional wheels for 2021 HPD package.....also an Enkei. I had been told by our friends at Enkei that they make this wheel and another forum member posted pics showing indeed 'ENKEI' top left of rear of the spoke pics, and '45' offset instead of normal 55mm offset. I expect this "HPD" cap on that wheel fits my Enkei wheels, but we can't get just that cap from Enkei since that is exclusive by contract to Honda. However....at some point that cap may be available at dealers.

 

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Towed one of my race cars to the shop today. Had a bunch of folks ask what happens when we tow with this exhaust. The answer is: nothing. The reason is the Helmholtz chamber is tuned for max efficiency in the range of rpms you will be towing. I did a brief sample of sound while getting on the freeway, notice how calm things get when I reach freeway speed and let up on the gas. This is in the quieter mode, secondary muffler installed. I can still hear it for sure, more sound than stock for sure, but pretty mild with the two mufflers and the Helmholtz chamber all in there.

Wife and Pup and the Ridgeline. My trailer and this car about 4000 pounds.


And here is getting on the freeway while towing (you might notice that's my puppy's head under my elbow in the video).

I cant tell for sure but which Enkei color is that Gray or gun metal?
 
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Brian, How did you get the tips to be so close to the body ? or is it the angle of the picture ? mine seem to hang way lower
You are in control of how far out the tips are via the slip joint a few feet from each tip. I had a customer get it not quite right and he was surprised that we had it perfect in about 2 minutes after he came to visit. I just took the gun with deep socket and made the slip joints loose and slid them for more overlap. Likewise with tip height it is all about what is happening at the slip joints. This all gets MASSIVELY easier if you have a second set of hands to help you, one person holds the tips where you want them while the other person does the gun on the clamps to lock the positions. With just one person trying to do both you end up with a lot of trial and error. Vital is good amount of Anti-seize around the overlapped bit of pipe at slip joints or getting the bits to slide can be really tough.
 

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Brian, How did you get the tips to be so close to the body ? or is it the angle of the picture ? mine seem to hang way lower
I had that same problem. I could get the tips up against the bumper but no matter how much I tightened the clamps (I snapped one of the bolts), the tips could be pushed down with minimal pressure so I knew they weren’t going to stay in place. You could weld the tailpipes where the clamps are but I didn’t want to lose the ability to take them off if I need to (the left pipe runs under my rear skid plate).

I made a couple of custom brackets ($20 for everything from Amazon but did weld the clamps to the hangers). Now the tailpipes are solid as a rock and will never move. Here’s the link to my write up in another thread (post 35).

 
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I guess exhaust clamp installation is as much experience as anything else, zero issue for us here across multiple installs. It is the same clamp that Magnaflow uses on most of their kits, so we have installed thousands of the same clamp over the years and that means we have some feel for the limits of it.

My suggestion to future installing customers is keep your eye on the gap as you close the clamp, and stop a few intervals along the path of getting it 'tight enough' and check if the tips move easily. As with most things ...you can overdo it. You don't need to be able to hang from the tips for it to be tight enough. So far most folks have gotten it done without any drama or broken clamps.
 

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I ended up breaking both clamps as well using an impact wrench; used two other generic parts store clamps and had to tighten to the point of deformity to get them to stay in place...so far they've not moved on me after about 1500 miles.
 

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I guess exhaust clamp installation is as much experience as anything else, zero issue for us here across multiple installs. It is the same clamp that Magnaflow uses on most of their kits, so we have installed thousands of the same clamp over the years and that means we have some feel for the limits of it.

My suggestion to future installing customers is keep your eye on the gap as you close the clamp, and stop a few intervals along the path of getting it 'tight enough' and check if the tips move easily. As with most things ...you can overdo it. You don't need to be able to hang from the tips for it to be tight enough. So far most folks have gotten it done without any drama or broken clamps.
Not sure why my experience qualifies as drama, just documenting what happened to me. Wasn’t casting shade, I like this exhaust. Been wrenching on vehicles for 40 plus years so I’m not a complete moron when it comes to tightening a bolt (although my wife might beg to differ).

But now that you bring it up, my personal opinion is that the clamps are a little bit crappy. Wouldn’t cost much to include grade 8 bolts instead of grade 5, especially since the instructions say to use an impact wrench (pretty sure I got grade 8 bolts with my Borla exhaust). And these bolts aren’t easy to find at the local big box since they’re threaded almost all the way, most 3/8 bolts stop about halfway.

My guess is that more than one person will be crawling back under their truck to tighten the clamps when their tips start to droop, just wanted to give some suggestions. Won’t be a problem for me 😀
 
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Not sure why my experience qualifies as drama, just documenting what happened to me. Wasn’t casting shade, I like this exhaust. Been wrenching on vehicles for 40 plus years so I’m not a complete moron when it comes to tightening a bolt (although my wife might beg to differ).

But now that you bring it up, my personal opinion is that the clamps are a little bit crappy. Wouldn’t cost much to include grade 8 bolts instead of grade 5, especially since the instructions say to use an impact wrench (pretty sure I got grade 8 bolts with my Borla exhaust). And these bolts aren’t easy to find at the local big box since they’re threaded almost all the way, most 3/8 bolts stop about halfway.

My guess is that more than one person will be crawling back under their truck to tighten the clamps when their tips start to droop, just wanted to give some suggestions. Won’t be a problem for me 😀
Thanks for being specific about the clamps and the grade of bolt, because you and two other customers set in motion some deep digging kit by kit here and we found some kits have all correct clamps, but some have a mixed set. Thus, the Magnaflow factory has a bin of clamps that got mixed at some point in the past... and that resulted in some kits having at least one incorrect clamp. We have talked with them and they are sending us a big box of correct clamps. We will send emails to current customers asking they check the clamps and verify they have the Torca at the slip joints.

The kit spec clamp is a Torca AccuSeal A25AF, made by Norma Group, easy to ID with the Torca symbol stamped on them, marked as 63.5mm size (2.5") and has a class 10.9 bolt (equivalent to grade 8). The incorrect clamp has no markings to make it possible for me to ID it easily, but it is noticeably poorer production, not the same finish/plating on the hardware, and a grade 5 bolt. We are reaching out to all customers directly in addition to posts in the forums, please look for correct Torca clamps that look like pics below:

OTHER Ways to ID the Correct Torca clamp:
  • Has Torca logo stamped on one side, and "63.5mm" stamped on other side - see pics
  • Nut takes 15mm socket




Ways to ID the bad clamp:
  • No markings
  • Nut takes 14mm socket

We will email customers for a count on how many they need, if any... as soon as the box of replacement clamps gets to us from Magnaflow. We have asked Magnaflow to rush that out for us today.
 

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Thanks for being specific about the clamps and the grade of bolt, because you and two other customers set in motion some deep digging kit by kit here and we found some kits have all correct clamps, but some have a mixed set. Thus, the Magnaflow factory has a bin of clamps that got mixed at some point in the past... and that resulted in some kits having at least one incorrect clamp. We have talked with them and they are sending us a big box of correct clamps. We will send emails to current customers asking they check the clamps and verify they have the Torca at the slip joints.

The kit spec clamp is a Torca AccuSeal A25AF, made by Norma Group, easy to ID with the Torca symbol stamped on them, marked as 63.5mm size (2.5") and has a class 10.9 bolt (equivalent to grade 8). The incorrect clamp has no markings to make it possible for me to ID it easily, but it is noticeably poorer production, not the same finish/plating on the hardware, and a grade 5 bolt. We are reaching out to all customers directly in addition to posts in the forums, please look for correct Torca clamps that look like pics below:

OTHER Ways to ID the Correct Torca clamp:
  • Has Torca logo stamped on one side, and "63.5mm" stamped on other side - see pics
  • Nut takes 15mm socket




Ways to ID the bad clamp:
  • No markings
  • Nut takes 14mm socket

We will email customers for a count on how many they need, if any... as soon as the box of replacement clamps gets to us from Magnaflow. We have asked Magnaflow to rush that out for us today.
Thanks Brian. My one clamp where the bolt broke definitely has no markings, I will check the other one tomorrow.
 
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