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Discussion Starter #1
So the other day I installed the new DynoLock kit to make the non-locking tailgate into a locking tailgate. Good news is - it works and is a pretty straight forward installation.

Dealing with Ed ([email protected]) was great, payment and shipping were quick and painless. The kit arrived a little over a week later and contains just about everything you need for installation.

Installing the locking mechanism was straightforward: remove the tailgate top cap (few screws and a nudge to the right - dont lose or break too many of the white clips), unscrew the big central mechanism and install the actuator and mounting plate. I had to bend the mounting plate a bit to get everything to line up nicely, but YMMV.

Routing the power cable was easy enough - the whole thing is split into two to make wiring through tight access points easier. The kit only contains a handful of zip ties so you'll definitely want to get more of those. I tied it down about every 8-12 inches or so to make sure the cable didn't go where it shouldn't. Route the whole thing to the bottom left of the tailgate (follow the other power cable essentially) and out the bottom of the truck.

The instructions mention locating the rubber grommet beneath the center pillar between the doors. I'm not sure if I completely missed that one, or it was a G1 grommet, but I found one more or less beneath the rear left passenger seat - so good enough for me. Pull it out, punch a whole, then run the long power cable through it. Feed the cable into the cab (I used a long zip tie to feed it beneath the carpet to the door. Then remove interior trim (both front and reach sill covers, seat belt upper bolt and lower bolt, center pillar cover etc - the instructions lay it all out).

Find the group of wires heading up the center pillar to the rear door, open them up a few inches, and find the small (really thin gauge) red and yellow. The instructions call for the yellow with gray dots and yellow with gray dots and a black stripe, but only one of those wires is present and it goes to the window - so ignore them. I've already fed this info back to Dyno so their instructions should be updated going forward. The kit comes with some wire splicers (designed for thicker gauge wire) which I didn't feel comfortable using, so I ended up stripping the wires and soldering in the new tailgate lock wires. Once everything was done, copious amounts of electric tape made everything pretty once more.

Route your cable on the inside however you like, put all of the trim back in place (seat belt stuff too), then under the truck. Stuff the grommet back into place and route your power cable to the back of the truck. You'll need a lot of zip ties here to keep it out of any moving parts. I used a mounting bracket for some brake lines (not the brake lines themselves), then up to another big bundle of wires going to that big connector, followed that to the back, then across the in-bed trunk to the frame. Here is where I realized I had about 2 feet of extra wire so I bound it all up and zipped it to part of the frame. Crimp on the connectors to the end of the cable, then connect everything up. Here is where you'll want to test the lock to make sure it locks with the rest of the doors - if it doesn't, reverse the connectors. Once you're satisfied, electrical tape everything for weatherproofing. Put the tailgate cover and top cap back on and you're good to go.

I'll try to grab some pictures later on, but I'm not going to disassemble my tailgate just yet. I can also upload a copy of the instructions if anyone wants.

GB
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Just getting off the ship/duty - will post the instructions when I get home
 

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Thanks! Very helpful.

Are you happy with the end result? Any reservations, or do you think this covers the standard lack of a lock fully?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
very happy with the end result and it definitely covers the gap.

Based on the design, I feel the weak point may be the pivot in the connector bar as it is just a rivet. If I ever have an issue with it i'll probably pull off the back cover and replace the rivet with something more substantial.
 
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Alright... Got mine in and it is nice. I used the port under the rear driver side seat, popped of the rear door sill and then open the bunch of wires that goes up the center column. Pretty easy install ultimately... open the gate's cover, then 2 bolts.... then run the wire (to me the hardest part of the project) and then go in through the hole under the rear seat... then back to the center column between front and back door. You dont have to take off the seat belt or anything as the instructions say. The most important part of the the update is that the instructions are wrong... the wires are YELLOW and RED. There is a thicker yellow wire don't use that one.
 

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Keep in mind that this is talking about the "other product" pop and lock, and is NOT DynoLock's product that the thread mentions. I feel the Dynolock is a simpler setup and you don't have to drill holes, but pop and lock you get a physical key.

For either product, this video mentions the same wrong wires.
 

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Looking at ordering the DynoLock. Is it the same part as for G1 Ridgelines? The web page doesn't show a separate item for 2017 - just two entries for 2005 & up in High Security and Standard.
 

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Looking at ordering the DynoLock. Is it the same part as for G1 Ridgelines? The web page doesn't show a separate item for 2017 - just two entries for 2005 & up in High Security and Standard.
FYI, I just called the company and talked to "Ed". He indicated that the 2017 requires a different locking system than the G1 style and they have them in-stock at $125.

Seems like a really nice gentleman and knew exactly what I was talking about regarding the G2 v G1 Ridgeline.
 

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Find the group of wires heading up the center pillar to the rear door, open them up a few inches, and find the small (really thin gauge) red and yellow. The instructions call for the yellow with gray dots and yellow with gray dots and a black stripe, but only one of those wires is present and it goes to the window - so ignore them. I've already fed this info back to Dyno so their instructions should be updated going forward.
.... then run the wire (to me the hardest part of the project) and then go in through the hole under the rear seat... then back to the center column between front and back door. You dont have to take off the seat belt or anything as the instructions say. The most important part of the the update is that the instructions are wrong... the wires are YELLOW and RED. There is a thicker yellow wire don't use that one.
We/I really appreciates a detail picture of which exact wires please !!!

I'm not one to like dealing with splicing wires...so...unless someone have proper picture of the exact wires...I'll skip this product altogether ! :|:frown:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
the small red and small yellow wires. they are the only ones there. It'll be very different than the large (red?) wire.
 

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FYI, I just called the company and talked to "Ed". He indicated that the 2017 requires a different locking system than the G1 style and they have them in-stock at $125.

Seems like a really nice gentleman and knew exactly what I was talking about regarding the G2 v G1 Ridgeline.
So.. the fitting one for our Gen2 isn't even one of those 2 listed on their site ?? as it said 2005 & up !! <confused>

the small red and small yellow wires. they are the only ones there. It'll be very different than the large (red?) wire.
Thank you...which exact product did you actually got ?? is it the HSA listed on their site ??... but..look above as what Buckoo had said..please confirm before I go ahead and order....was about to get the listed HSA but Buckoo post confused me further.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
It is just referred to as "ETGL" as far as the installation notes go.
 

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So.. the fitting one for our Gen2 isn't even one of those 2 listed on their site ?? as it said 2005 & up !! <confused>



Thank you...which exact product did you actually got ?? is it the HSA listed on their site ??... but..look above as what Buckoo had said..please confirm before I go ahead and order....was about to get the listed HSA but Buckoo post confused me further.
It is just referred to as "ETGL" as far as the installation notes go.
That didn't exactly answer my question..:frown:

did you just buy the HSA version out of the 2 listed there for 2005 and up Ridgeline ? if yes...then wondered why Buckoo mentioned that Ed said Gen1 uses different product than the Gen2 ??

I haven't heard back from Ed yet.

also...end of step #24...What exactly does "tailgate lock only operates with the rear doors lock" means ?

Am I right in thinking as how the remote works ??..need to go into "customize features" to set how the remote unlock doors options ?..I have it set as one press open ALL doors instead of just driver door so I should be fine, correct ?

sorry for all questions..as I am a little intimidated with this mod but would like to learn all I can before I venture into the unknown territory ! >:)
 

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Just a little clarification, on my 2010 install the tailgate would unlock whenever I pressed the key fob twice (allowing the back doors to unlock). Pressing it once did not unlock the tailgate.

I don't know if that will change with my 2017. Ed did mention that the mechanical portion of the NEW lock for G2 is different. I have read posts that Honda did or does have an issue with the 2017 tailgate locking mechanism and has modified the mechanical portion on the new model. Something about the length or bend of a locking rod.

I might be getting my Dynolock today, and if so will post any differences. Might mention that the new lock cost $125 (includes shipping) and will have the lifetime warranty (better actuator).
 
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