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Discussion Starter #1
I am glad Dynolock finally joined us as a sponsor. What about some information about the lock, possibly introductory special?
 

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I am interested also......the lock on my OEM tonneau cover is not beefy enough. I need to find a better lock for the tailgate. Hopefully they are available for the Ridgeline.

If you want to find the truth in life, don't pass music by..........
 

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I am interested also......the lock on my OEM tonneau cover is not beefy enough. I need to find a better lock for the tailgate. Hopefully they are available for the Ridgeline.

If you want to find the truth in life, don't pass music by..........
According to their site, they do have one for the Ridgeline.

My question is if it locks the tail gate in both directions?


http://www.dynolock.com/hori20upw.html
 

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I'm not interested in an electric tailgate lock but would love to have one of their Pop N Lock units for my Ridgeline so that things would be secure under my BAKFlip cover. Same question though, would their "mechanical" lock work on both tailgate modes?
 

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According to their site, they do have one for the Ridgeline.

My question is if it locks the tail gate in both directions?
Yes, it locks the tailgate in both directions. There are two latches on the tailgate, and they are both controlled by the same latching mechanism.

Here are three pics that show the installation in my tailgate.

1. Overview. Shows the whole latch mechanism with the Dynolock installed.

2. Close up of the Dynolock actuator BEFORE installation.

3. Close up of the Dynolock actuator AFTER installation, in the unlocked position.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So, has anyone bought and installed dynolock yet? This thing doesn't seem to be too popular.
 

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Yes I have installed a dynolock on my gate . Over the winter it stopped locking the gate , but you could still hear it trying to fire close . When it got warmer I took the gate apart & found that the solenoid had failed . I phoned the distributor , he told me dynolock had redesigned a new lock & it would be covered under the 1 year warranty . I installed it the other day . Hopefully this one does not fail [ if so it's coming out ] Luckily when it failed it was in the unlock position ! Taking the gate apart with it up might be tricky ! Anyone out there know how to lower or open gate if latch is jammed or locked ?
 

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Anyone out there know how to lower or open gate if latch is jammed or locked ?
I've seen one member here install a piece of string on the jamming mechanism to unlock the gate if the unit fails. I'm not sure where he put the string but check with ChrisM...I believe he was the one that suggested putting a "manual override" in addition to the lock.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Frankly, I am surprised there is no some sort of provision to open the gate manually in case of emergency! This alone can be a deal breaker.
 

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I received a Dynalock with my Retrax order for my '07 RTL this week. I installed the lock today. Very slick. The longest part of the process is choosing how to route the wire from the tailgate to the center (or 'B') pillar between the front and back doors on the driver's side. There is a small body cap at this location that needs to be removed and drilled out for the wire running fom the tailgate lock. In order to gain better access to the pathway from under the truck into the B pillar, you may find the driver's seat belt mechanism in the way.

I chose to remove the retracting seatbelt mechanism and disconnect the electrical connection to said unit. I quickly found out that if you let the belt roll up too far into the retracting unit, you will have a huge problem on your hands. It turns out that the seat belt retracting unit has a mercury switch in it that prevents you from feeding seat belt out of the unit unless it is in a 'perfect position'. Fortunately, there is a repair shop nearby owned by a Honda-certified mechanic who helped me free up some belt so I could reinstall the retracting unit. IMPORTANT: He told me to disconnect the negative battery connector for ten minutes before reattaching the electrical plug to the seat belt retractor. He told me that static electricity could fire the airbags.

On to the point I was trying to make in this post...I emailed Jim Martin of Dynalock about the question raised in this thread about what you do if the actuator fails. His reply was to remove the top cap of the tailgate, put your hand in the opening and move the locking mechanism manually. Not a perfect solution, but also not entirely difficult either. Just wanted to let you all know what the current 'conventional wisdom' is on this issue. I can see where installation of a string (as posted by bongus) as an emergency release mechanism might be a good solution. I did not do this and will sleep in that bed when the time comes.
 

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I am about to install mine in the morning and now you got me worried about the seatbelt thing! Will it retract in when I take it off? Is the tension tight?
I guess I'll just be real carefull now that you have given that info!
Thanks!
 

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This maybe a silly question, but I'm no Ridgeline mechanic or engineer. So here goes: Is it possible to wire the tailgate lock to the trunk lid lock? The trunk lid operates with the key fob, so I would think it would work. I haven't looked, but is there a suitable way of routing the wires to the trunk?

Also, does anyone know if the Pop & Lock manual lock is available yet?
 

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I am about to install mine in the morning and now you got me worried about the seatbelt thing! Will it retract in when I take it off? Is the tension tight?
I guess I'll just be real carefull now that you have given that info!
Thanks!
I didn't have any problems with the seat belt mechanism. I didn't disconnect any power or sensor connection to it (It don't remember seeing any, actually), I just took the bolt out and moved the mechanism aside while I made the necessary connections, then bolted it back in when I was done.

You'll want to move the driver's seat all the way forward to work in that area, and you don't need to completely remove the floor trim next to the driver's seat -- just pull up the end next to the post so you can pull the post trim off (the floor trim holds the bottom part of the post trim on).
 

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This maybe a silly question, but I'm no Ridgeline mechanic or engineer. So here goes: Is it possible to wire the tailgate lock to the trunk lid lock? The trunk lid operates with the key fob, so I would think it would work. I haven't looked, but is there a suitable way of routing the wires to the trunk?

Also, does anyone know if the Pop & Lock manual lock is available yet?
I looked for the wire bundle from the tailgate, and it appears to disappear into the area behind the rear seat. Way too much work to make the connection that way. So, it is easier to follow the instructions with the Dynalock and come up from under the truck into the B pillar.
 

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I didn't have any problems with the seat belt mechanism. I didn't disconnect any power or sensor connection to it (It don't remember seeing any, actually), I just took the bolt out and moved the mechanism aside while I made the necessary connections, then bolted it back in when I was done.
Teezer is correct. The instuctions call for moving the foam that surrounds the seat belt retracting mechanism 'out of the way' and fish the wire from the Dynalock from under the truck into the B pillar area. I found it is much easier to just remove the seatbelt mechanism, remove the foam and fish the wire with nothing in the way.

If you do remove the seatbelt retracting mechanism, wrap it around the driver's side headrest so none of the seat belt retracts too far into the unit. Alternately, you could use a spring clamp or other device to insure this does not happen. I made the mistake of letting too much seatbelt retract into the unit that I could not get it back in place. Then I had to disconnect the electrical connection thinking that it was causing the belt not to feed out. I posted my mishap so that someone else would not encounter the same problem. Perhaps I am a sloppy installer. Aside from my 'goof', the installation was pretty straight forward.
 

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I looked for the wire bundle from the tailgate, and it appears to disappear into the area behind the rear seat. Way too much work to make the connection that way. So, it is easier to follow the instructions with the Dynalock and come up from under the truck into the B pillar.
Thanks breakfastchef, I was wondering why they didn't use the trunk lock.
 
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