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Discussion Starter #21
I emailed Jim Martin of Dynalock about the question raised in this thread about what you do if the actuator fails. His reply was to remove the top cap of the tailgate, put your hand in the opening and move the locking mechanism manually. Not a perfect solution, but also not entirely difficult either. Just wanted to let you all know what the current 'conventional wisdom' is on this issue. I can see where installation of a string (as posted by bongus) as an emergency release mechanism might be a good solution. I did not do this and will sleep in that bed when the time comes.
I have OEM bed cover. I haven't actually tried it, but it would seem problematic to remove the top tailage cap. I wonder what he can say about it?
 

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I just installed my dynalock today and I also was concerned about access if the solenoid fails in the jammed position. How do you remove the tailgate cap with the tailgate up? You need about an inch to slide the cap over...do you have to break all the plastic inserts? Also with the just the tailcap off I saw no way of getting your finger down there much less your hand. I suppose you could use a coathanger.

Another concern I have is the hinge area where the wire is run. Won't these wires break eventually over time seeing how the wires get flexed at the same point everytime you open the tailgate? Any thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter #23
I just installed my dynalock today and I also was concerned about access if the solenoid fails in the jammed position. How do you remove the tailgate cap with the tailgate up? You need about an inch to slide the cap over...do you have to break all the plastic inserts? Also with the just the tailcap off I saw no way of getting your finger down there much less your hand. I suppose you could use a coathanger.

Another concern I have is the hinge area where the wire is run. Won't these wires break eventually over time seeing how the wires get flexed at the same point everytime you open the tailgate? Any thoughts?
As a new customer You should contact Dynolock (Jim Martin-?) and voice your concerns. Don't forget to post their answers here, when you get them.
 

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Well I figured out a fix if the lock should ever fail in the locked position.

I disassembled the tailgate and made measurements as to where the end of the lock actuator is. I then drilled a 1/2 inch hole in this spot. If it ever fails all I need is a small screwdriver to manually unlock it. I then went down to the local auto store and bought a plug to cover the hole.

From the right side (passenger side) of the tailgate it is 22 1/2 inches. From the top of the tailgate it is 5 5/8 inches. I would assume it would be pretty close to the same on all Ridgelines. It doesn't have to be exact but pretty close.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Well I figured out a fix if the lock should ever fail in the locked position.

I disassembled the tailgate and made measurements as to where the end of the lock actuator is. I then drilled a 1/2 inch hole in this spot. If it ever fails all I need is a small screwdriver to manually unlock it. I then went down to the local auto store and bought a plug to cover the hole.

From the right side (passenger side) of the tailgate it is 22 1/2 inches. From the top of the tailgate it is 5 5/8 inches. I would assume it would be pretty close to the same on all Ridgelines. It doesn't have to be exact but pretty close.
The question is how to get to this spot with a bed cover in closed position?
 

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Well I figured out a fix if the lock should ever fail in the locked position.

I disassembled the tailgate and made measurements as to where the end of the lock actuator is. I then drilled a 1/2 inch hole in this spot. If it ever fails all I need is a small screwdriver to manually unlock it. I then went down to the local auto store and bought a plug to cover the hole.

From the right side (passenger side) of the tailgate it is 22 1/2 inches. From the top of the tailgate it is 5 5/8 inches. I would assume it would be pretty close to the same on all Ridgelines. It doesn't have to be exact but pretty close.
Thanks for the measurements. :) I figured on doing this if I ever had a failure, but I'm not going to do it in advance.

And I'll probably drill the hole in the indented portion of the tailgate surface, which would keep the plug out of the way if I were carrying something with the tailgate down (lumber, etc.).
 

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The question is how to get to this spot with a bed cover in closed position?
What are the odds of the tailgate lock and your cover lock failing at the same time? The odds would have to be astronomical! I installed the Retrax cover and can't imagine why or how both would fail at the same time. But if they did I would say you have at least 3 options.

1. Drill the hole from the outside and then after the repairs are made, take it to a body shop. ;)

2. Drill out your cover lock and buy a replacement lock.

3. Never use your truckbed again! ;)

Also a 4th option..I have read that the DynoLock jamming mechanism isn't that strong and if you pull real hard on the handle a few times it will bend and the gate will open. I have not tried this and don't know if this is a true statement.
 

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The question is how to get to this spot with a bed cover in closed position?
What are the odds of the tailgate lock and your cover lock failing at the same time? The odds would have to be astronomical! I installed the Retrax cover and can't imagine why or how both would fail at the same time.
I agree with the odds being astronomical of both locks failing at the same time IF you have a rolling cover like the Retrax, Roll N Lock, or the Pace Edwards Jack Rabbits.

But if IRCC, Raplon states he has the OEM cover. The OEM cover does have a lock, but it does not lock the cover in place, it is supposed to lock the tail gate. The tail gate needs to be opened to release the latches to open the cover. The same goes for other non rolling covers.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
The OEM cover does have a lock, but it does not lock the cover in place, it is supposed to lock the tail gate. The tail gate needs to be opened to release the latches to open the cover. The same goes for other non rolling covers.
That is correct. There is no way to open the cover with the tailgate up. I guess this makes dynolock less than desirable for use with any cover that works in a similar fashion.
 

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Well, it has happened! Installed Dynolock 3 months ago and...
Just out of the blue it just failed....then it worked.
I really don't want to rip it all out knowing I made good connections! So now what? I was very happy with it up till
this morning. Anyone with any suggestions other than drilling the hole in the tailgate? As of now it's when it wants to work!!!!!!
Frankie D :(
 

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Anyone with any suggestions other than drilling the hole in the tailgate? As of now it's when it wants to work!!!!!!
Frankie D :(
This would be a good uestion for Jim at Dynalock. Email him with your problems and see what he says. Perhaps your Dynalock is under warranty and they will send a replacement. Look forward to your reply.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Anyone with any suggestions other than drilling the hole in the tailgate? As of now it's when it wants to work!!!!!!
Frankie D :(
What does it mean? Did it jam the lock or it just wouldn't lock? If it is the first one, you are stating it does work intermittently, so if you don't need immediate access to the bed, perhaps you should wait for the next time it unlocks, take it out and replace the lock under warranty.
 

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I wrote to Jim and this is his reply:

>>>It has to be a bad connection somewhere. That is the only way it will work intermittently. Pull in the connections to see if one of the connectors has come loose.
Jim
<<<

So I guess I'll start back tracking.
Is it possible that the switch itself could go bad?
I'll let you know....:confused:
 

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:mad: Ok, so now I have re-connected everything inside behind the seatbelt post.
It was all good but I did it anyway! Now the problem is....... it will not open for me to re do the connections in the tailgate. I may have to drill the hole from inside the bed just to open the gate!!!!!! Or I can wear down my battery just trying to open it over and over???? help!!!!!!! any ideas????
Frankie D:mad:
 

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Discussion Starter #35
:mad: Ok, so now I have re-connected everything inside behind the seatbelt post.
It was all good but I did it anyway! Now the problem is....... it will not open for me to re do the connections in the tailgate. I may have to drill the hole from inside the bed just to open the gate!!!!!! Or I can wear down my battery just trying to open it over and over???? help!!!!!!! any ideas????
Frankie D:mad:
This is from post # 14:
"On to the point I was trying to make in this post...I emailed Jim Martin of Dynalock about the question raised in this thread about what you do if the actuator fails. His reply was to remove the top cap of the tailgate, put your hand in the opening and move the locking mechanism manually. Not a perfect solution, but also not entirely difficult either. Just wanted to let you all know what the current 'conventional wisdom' is on this issue. I can see where installation of a string (as posted by bongus) as an emergency release mechanism might be a good solution. I did not do this and will sleep in that bed when the time comes."
So, if you have access to the bed, just remove the top of the tailgate and you will be able to release the locking mechanism manually.
 

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:) Ok, the job is done!
After drilling the hole and getting a screw driver in there all from inside the bed, ....I got it to open!
It was NOT any of my connections as Jim has stated.
I re connected everything as if it were from scratch.
And....nope....nothing!!!!! It was just a sticky switch! I pushed and pulled by hand quite a few times then it started working with the key again. I pulled back the rubber boot and sprayed some electronic tuner lubricant (made for solenoids) it was kind of hard to really get a good amount in there but spray, push in and out, spray, push in and out....seemed to really make it move very smoothly!
I don't know when it may happen again if ever, but now there is hole there to get me out of what could have been a major problem.
Thanks for your help everyone!:)
 

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Here I am again locked out of my Ridgeline Bed again!
I have done all that Jim requested (twice) as far as re connecting and making sure everything was right and it was. So he offered to send me a replacement
and I have to send mine back to him for testing to find out why this is happening. I just don't get it.
Am I the only one with a bad switch from Dynolock?
very puzzled:(
Frankie D
 

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Well the mystery is solved.....
Jim from dynolock was nice enough to send me a replacement.
But that was not the problem. So I'm sending his back to him. The bad thing was it could not be found till I followed the wires all the way along the inside of the gate and found that down on the lower left corner there is a u shaped steel bar that was rubbing against the hinge but only when you open it half way! So I never saw it while it was opened or closed. It never broke thru the black rubber coating but it did on the inside of the wiring where you can't see it. I took a chance and that was the spot! It works great now, but what a headache finding what the problem was. thanks for all your help of trying to find out what this mystery was.

Happy Camper:)
 

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Well the mystery is solved.....
Great news, despite the torture of pulling all of your hair out (assuming you are not of the bald variety). So, it was a bad wire after all and in the weakest point of the entire install. I have my Dynalock wires running in the same vicinity, but made sure to leave some play in the wires to avoid any undue stress. I will keep a close eye on this if my Dynalock fails. So far, two months and I am very happy with the device. (Can't get that damn tailgate cap on completely, though)
 
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